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Posted: 7/21/2010 3:05:26 AM EST
Anybody know a reputable locksmith that will perform this service? Far North Dallas area.

Or should I just flip through the phone book?
Link Posted: 7/21/2010 3:26:40 AM EST
[Last Edit: 7/21/2010 3:51:49 AM EST by Tarkington]
don't know if you need a locksmith,
any handyman, carpenter, or someone with a drill, masonry bit, and some anchor bolts could do it

ETA: if your house is on a concrete slab
Link Posted: 7/21/2010 4:08:42 AM EST
hammer drill and 4 ancor bolts and your GTG. You can rent a hammer drill from tool renters if you don't have access to one.
Link Posted: 7/21/2010 4:43:42 AM EST
Next question:

What size and grade of bolt to use? How much torque?
Link Posted: 7/21/2010 5:29:34 AM EST
[Last Edit: 7/21/2010 5:30:18 AM EST by Tarkington]
I used 7/16" diameter X 4" long (don't know the grade, just anchors from lowe's or home depot)
and just tightened them good (with no torque wrench)
Link Posted: 7/21/2010 5:52:09 AM EST
Assuming your home is built on a slab.

What size hole is already drilled in the bottom of safe?

One hole or more than one?

Is the spot you picked for the safe the only place it will be?

My approach- Get the largest Hilti fastener for concrete that will fit in the hole(s) available.

Buy a nice (expensive) hammer drill and the bit the package of Hilti fasteners recommended.

Use your shop vac as you drill, and do this yourself. Lag screws are better than nothing, but not much.

Use your large socket set to install, very simple actually.

At the end of the project you will have saved money and have a cool hammer drill as a bonus.

Take pictures

Link Posted: 7/21/2010 6:18:07 AM EST
I bolted mine down using 1/2"X3" redhead anchors. Took longer to move stuff in and out of the safe to get to the holes than to actually do the job.


If you are doing this on carpet cut a small square on 3 sides and fold the carpet out of the way. Otherwise the drill will grab one of the carpet threads and start a run.



Link Posted: 7/21/2010 6:23:28 AM EST
Don't use 7/16 diameter bit for ANYTHING !!! There is no anchor that'll fit that size hole !! The best anchor to use for something like this is a Sipmson Strong-Tie "Titan HD". Strong, removable, reusable and easy to install.
Link Posted: 7/21/2010 6:35:33 AM EST

Originally Posted By Tarkington:
I used 7/16" diameter X 4" long (don't know the grade, just anchors from lowe's or home depot)
and just tightened them good (with no torque wrench)


size was a W.A.G.
actually used 1/2 x 4 1/4
red heads
Link Posted: 7/21/2010 6:41:49 AM EST
Plus 1 for Red Head anchors. Used then lots of times to mount all sorts of stuff.
Link Posted: 7/21/2010 8:16:38 AM EST
I know i can rent the tools to do it, but im really tired and in the process of a massive home project. Ne lights, paint, carpet, tile, counters, etc. Im doing most all the work myself and im will to just pay somebdy to come bolt the safe down. The safe is from Sturdy and is already in position.
Link Posted: 7/21/2010 10:06:51 AM EST
i just used a 19.2 volt cordless drill and a cheap masonry bit.
the wifes vacuum worked great to keep the dust down.
it's not hard to do at all. take you about 30 minutes.
I'd put sealant in the holes around the bolts in case
you punched through the slab, to keep moisture out.
Link Posted: 7/22/2010 1:19:14 PM EST
Mine is so super heavy that no thief could move such..... bulky, and hard to manuver out of two doors also, why worry if you got a decent sized safe ? Also, put your lights on timers, and perhaps buy a decoy as from www.FakeTV.com ...burglar alarms are getting better and cheaper ..motion sensing lights in and out of house, radio on a timer to play when you are away... try not to let the safe be seen delivered or from a window... temptation you know...
Link Posted: 7/22/2010 1:52:21 PM EST
I did mine in less than 30 minutes with an old cheapo Craftsman Hammer drill. Make sure to mark the cement bit for depth so that you do not breach the slab.
Link Posted: 7/22/2010 5:53:47 PM EST
[Last Edit: 7/22/2010 5:56:07 PM EST by QwikKotaTx]
Originally Posted By Tarkington:
i just used a 19.2 volt cordless drill and a cheap masonry bit.
the wifes vacuum worked great to keep the dust down.
it's not hard to do at all. take you about 30 minutes.
I'd put sealant in the holes around the bolts in case
you punched through the slab, to keep moisture out.


Who poured your slab? That must be some soft concrete. I used a 1/2" corded hammer drill and an 1/8" Bosch bit to drill some small holes for a threshold and it took forever. If I hit a rock forget about it.

Originally Posted By VOLANTINERO:... why worry if you got a decent sized safe ?

Why even get a safe if you have locks on your doors! Seriously, why NOT bolt it down? It's a minor step, anything worth doing is worth doing well.
Link Posted: 7/22/2010 6:10:52 PM EST
PM me. I'll lend a hand to help. I have the hammer drill and drill bit. As long as you have the proper length extension cord, bolts and wrenches, I'll help you drill the holes.

FB
Link Posted: 7/22/2010 6:27:34 PM EST
Originally Posted By VOLANTINERO:
Mine is so super heavy that no thief could move such..... bulky, and hard to manuver out of two doors also, why worry if you got a decent sized safe ? Also, put your lights on timers, and perhaps buy a decoy as from www.FakeTV.com ...burglar alarms are getting better and cheaper ..motion sensing lights in and out of house, radio on a timer to play when you are away... try not to let the safe be seen delivered or from a window... temptation you know...


Because 8 16-20somethings can throw the heaviest safe in the back of a pickup in less than a minute.
Link Posted: 7/22/2010 6:35:21 PM EST
[Last Edit: 7/22/2010 6:37:17 PM EST by beavo451]
Well I bit the bullet and rented the tool. Wasn't hard, but definitely would not mind paying somebody.

Edit to add... Since I was replacing most all the flooring in the house, I ordered the safe and got it set where I wanted and the carpet guys carpeted around it. Looks fantastic.
Link Posted: 7/22/2010 6:36:37 PM EST
Originally Posted By cvanbrunt:
I bolted mine down using 1/2"X3" redhead anchors. Took longer to move stuff in and out of the safe to get to the holes than to actually do the job.


If you are doing this on carpet cut a small square on 3 sides and fold the carpet out of the way. Otherwise the drill will grab one of the carpet threads and start a run.

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/300/72/7264748c-8773-48f1-b3f9-a1dc172d6a35_300.jpg



Look for concrete screw anchors like the Hilti HUS-S, Simpson Titen HD or Red Head LDT. They are much easier to remove if you ever decide to move your safe. Any contractor supply will have one or the other.

http://www.us.hilti.com/holus/page/module/product/prca_rangedetail.jsf?lang=en&nodeId=-60723

http://www.simpsonanchors.com/catalog/mechanical/titen-hd/

http://www.itwredhead.com/ldt_sawtooth.asp

Link Posted: 7/22/2010 8:03:29 PM EST
[Last Edit: 7/22/2010 8:08:06 PM EST by MateFrio]

Originally Posted By VOLANTINERO:
Mine is so super heavy that no thief could move such..... bulky, and hard to manuver out of two doors also, why worry if you got a decent sized safe ? Also, put your lights on timers, and perhaps buy a decoy as from www.FakeTV.com ...burglar alarms are getting better and cheaper ..motion sensing lights in and out of house, radio on a timer to play when you are away... try not to let the safe be seen delivered or from a window... temptation you know...

It's not about removing the safe. It's about tipping it over on it's back making it more vulnerable to leverage and the thiefs weight behind a prybar. Go 2:20 into this video for an example.


Link Posted: 7/23/2010 5:05:43 AM EST
Get drop in anchors if you want the floor to be smooth when you move your safe. The ones that stick up through the safe, you will have to lift the safe over them to remove the safe. Also be careful how much you tork down your bolts. You can warp the bottom of the safe, and that will cause your door not to work properly.

Drop In

I install safes, and can help you out if you want.
Link Posted: 7/23/2010 7:38:40 AM EST
Thanks for video warning... but, that safe showed no cross locking bars... any safe worth money should have such ? Some lockers are sold as "safes"....tragic .... One warning, bragging / talkative relatives... then a stranger comes knocking, produces a gun / blade and demands house and safe entry ? Be alert, with or without a safe, home invasions are becoming all too too successful.... rich or poor folk just does not matter ... Your wallet / car keys can make anyone of us a target....
Link Posted: 7/23/2010 7:52:26 AM EST

Originally Posted By VOLANTINERO:
Thanks for video warning... but, that safe showed no cross locking bars...
I don't think that was the issue.....A cam lock wouldn't have helped. Anti pry tabs might have though.
Link Posted: 7/23/2010 9:57:42 AM EST

Originally Posted By MateFrio:

Originally Posted By VOLANTINERO:
Thanks for video warning... but, that safe showed no cross locking bars...
I don't think that was the issue.....A cam lock wouldn't have helped. Anti pry tabs might have though.


The door on my unit is heavy enough that if it was opened and fallen against/pulled from the front edge with the door wide open, I don't have any doubt that it would fall foward.

Mine is bolted primarily to insure it doesn't become my own death trap. The increased security is a bonus item at no additional cost.
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