College mathmatics didn't set it well enough and I'm not doing well figureing out how MOA works.  I have a Leupold scope that each "click" is 2moa, now how to detremine what that equates to at 100yds, 150, 299,...
Got a solution?  

1 MOA = 1.0472 inches per 100 yds

Most shooters agree that this is close enough to 1 inch at 100 yds.

For example using your scope, 1 click will move the bullet impact 2 inches at 100 yds, 3 inches at 150 yds, 6 inches at 300yds etc.
If you wanted to convert it exactly it would be 1 click moves 2.0944 inches at 100yds or 20.944 inches at 1000yds.
As you can see there is no practical reason to not use the rounded off formula because even at 1000yds your clicks would be off by only 0.944 inches.

Thanks for the info, it never occured to just call 1 moa 1" @ 100yds.
The scope is a Leupold VX-II and when I opened the covers, it's clearly marked 2moa. which is alright becasue it's sitting on top of a .338RUM  
I didn't have faith that the Bushnell Banner would survive the recoil from this animal, and the longer eye relief prevents  

Quoted: Thanks for the info, it never occured to just call 1 moa 1" @ 100yds. The scope is a Leupold VX-II and when I opened the covers, it's clearly marked 2moa. which is alright becasue it's sitting on top of a .338RUM   I didn't have faith that the Bushnell Banner would survive the recoil from this animal, and the longer eye relief prevents

I just checked Leupold's site and didn't see any 2 moa scopes.

What is the exact model? Year made or purchased?

A one click change affecting 2 moa is totally untypical. 1 click 1 moa even on a shit scope is as large as most manufacturers would likely go.

Yes, it's everything I said it was, and very unusual at that. It was purchesed used and I've no indication of the age other than it's an older model (by the Leupold icon design and the caps)
I don't do well posting pictures here, but links work well!  Check the "prev" and "next" photos.

Quoted: Yes, it's everything I said it was, and very unusual at that. It was purchesed used and I've no indication of the age other than it's an older model (by the Leupold icon design and the caps) I don't do well posting pictures here, but links work well!  Check the "prev" and "next" photos.

Well then that confirms it - a DINOSAUR. A Leupold DIE-no. I am not trying to be cute or a smarty. I understand you want a strong and reliable scope and this IS one. However, when this was manufactured (very likely long ago) it was pretty common practice to SHIM a scope into a "Useable" sighting-in. I believe your .338 is one for accuracy, yes? With a 2 moa, fine tuning this scope will be difficult, very difficult indeed.

this doesn't CLICK, but slides from one marking to another? If so, then fine tuning will be "splitting" click MARKS. It won't be definite corrections, but approximation you may be to get you to you desired ZERO.

Example: if one click is 2moa (inch), then mid way is 1moa (inch), 1/4 way 1/2 moa (inch).

Hope that helps you df.

L_d

It looks like 1/2 MOA increments to me. If you look after the 4 there are marks for 4 1/2, 5, 5 1/2, then you have a number for 6.

The screws turn smoothly instead of "clicking". This scope is ancient, and the 2moa amounts to a double-edged sword: if you need 71" @ 600yds, you're gonna get it and quick, for shorter shots it'll be hard to fine tune. On the plus side, the .338RUM doesn't drop very much at all until you get out past 300yds.
With some practice you could make some wicked shots with small caliber rifles, problem is the magnification runs out before bullet drop.

I bought the rifle with the intent to flip it over, but after reading up on the cartridge, decided to plat with it a little bit....little is all I can stand becasue it kick the shit out of you shooting from the bench. Maby I'll swap the Leupold out for a Bushnell 3200 Elite, I've got one in 10X with milridian dots.

height=8

Quoted: The screws turn smoothly instead of "clicking".

You can use something like this - Turrets

Quoted: I had a Sendero SF in .338 RUM, I loved it!  Probably more than any other gun, I regret selling that one...  Accuracy, even with only 2 "hunting loads" that were available at the time, was excellent.

I have a Sendero in .300 RUM and it's certainly a force to contend with. When this older gentleman approached me at a gunshow with this animal, I decided that it would be put on the table and re-sold, it's as gerogious a rifle as Remington puts out, but there've been no takers, even priced below dealer wholesale. It had been fired ~11 times, until I decided to try it out and after four shots, I'd had enough (and at 6'6" 260lbs, I'm no small tuna). If this were a Sendero, it wouldn't be for sale, but as it stands there's nothing in North America that the .300RUM won't drop, besides there are several other rifles in the safe that haven't had their turn since being zeroed the first time.
The starting load is a 225gr Barnes X at 2,800fps with a 100yd zero:
0 = -1.50
100= 0.0
200= -2.63
300= -13.19
400= -29.66
500= -54.21
600= -88.17
The only place/way I'm going to get a shot over 200 yds is in a hunting situation, and out to 200 yds I proabably would aim just a smidgen high. All these ballistics are fine, problem is seeing that far out with a 3~9 scope.

It's possible that the 2moa is from neumeral to neumeral, not tic to tic which could work out to 1/4" @ 100 for each line/mark, which would make more sense, but you guys saw the photo's too.  A trip to the range, some sandbags, and inch grid targets should tell the whole story.

Quoted: Quoted: The screws turn smoothly instead of "clicking". You can use something like this - Turrets

The Stoney Point knobs are really nice! but they are expensive, might put a couple on anyway...just gotta figure out which way this is going first.

On another note: ever see a .375 RUM?  A friend sent some empty cases....sick, just friggin'n sick. You look at them and ask WTF would you shoot with that. Answer: Anything you want.

Quoted: <snip> It's possible that the 2moa is from neumeral to neumeral, not tic to tic which could work out to 1/4" @ 100 for each line/mark, which would make more sense, but you guys saw the photo's too.  A trip to the range, some sandbags, and inch grid targets should tell the whole story.

It being non-click incremented is a plus for you here. Just split the increments by sliding to the proper adjustment. Should work out just fine. Just remember to take the 3 shot average as the point of impact.

What he said about splitting the difference between refernce marks.  If it's a non clicker than it's no problem you have infinite adjustment not really 1/2 moa or 2 moa.

If it was me, I'd set it 2 inches high and be done.  Then I'd take a non black sharpie and make a mark on the dial as a reference point just like guys do on the M1's with a line of paint for zero.  

Of course I'm a sissy Glenn, I wouldn't own a howitzer.

BTW wanna take it squirrel hunting with me?  I'll use my .22

SoS

Quoted: What he said about splitting the difference between refernce marks.  If it's a non clicker than it's no problem you have infinite adjustment not really 1/2 moa or 2 moa. If it was me, I'd set it 2 inches high and be done.  Then I'd take a non black sharpie and make a mark on the dial as a reference point just like guys do on the M1's with a line of paint for zero.   that's a sound idea, and the adjustment screws don't have detents under them Of course I'm a sissy Glenn, I wouldn't own a howitzer. BTW wanna take it squirrel hunting with me?  I'll use my .22 RED FOGG RIDES AGAIN! Damn bullet weighs more than the squrrel.   SoS