I'm ready to order the parts for my first build and need some advice about what to put on the end of a 16" barrel.    

Will I be better off with a flash hider or a muzzle break?

Will either of these really be of any advantage or should I leave them off?

Which type do you guys recommend?

And last, because I live in the wonderful state of NY I know I cant have a threaded barrel on a post ban lower.  But, is it acceptable to buy a threaded barrel and either weld or pin the flash hider/muzzle break?  Can this be accomplished with silver solder as opposed to welding

Welcome aboard chris-t2.

Well, if you've got a 'postban' lower, your option of a flash hider is out - you can only attach a muzzle brake.

High temp silver solder is one way to permanently attach the (threaded) brake - Either you can have it done from many of our dealers/builders on this board, or if your willing to have a go at it yourself, a MAPP Gas torch, silver solder and heat stop paste will be in order.  There are some other options such as blind pinning - but in order to keep your nose clean, some might prefer to spot weld over the pins with (per ATF) "deep penetrating welds" (TIG weld)

These products can be ordered from www.brownells.com
Not sure of the heat stop paste order number, but the silver solder you'd want is item 322-120-750 Non Flowing Silver braze.

I'll try and find a link regarding the proper preparation techniques that I saw for a FAL build - same should apply for the AR.

As for recommendations - first I'd go with what you like the look of.  To me personally - I think a bare ended barrel should be reserved for bull barrels.  There are so many options to choose from, and many brakes look like flash supressors -The Calvary Arms brake comes to mind.

EDITED TO ADD>>>>>> Found the link for the muzzle brake install for the FAL. Here ya go!
www.cruffler.com/trivia-April01-assembly.html#MuzzleDeviceInstallation

BTW - where abouts are you located in NY?  We have quite a few members here in the Northeast, that could probably direct you to someone who installs the brakes/or has worked on their rifles.

Thanks for the advice and the links to the web sites.  The web site for the muzzle break install is great and easy to follow.  It looks easy enough and I dont forsee ant problems trying it myself.  By the way do you know if the process can be reversed if the flash hider should become damaged?  I would think that it could, but then again I'm new to all of this.  I've also seen a bolt on version of a muzzle break from Oly Arms, do you have any feed back on this type of muzzle attachment?  By the way I live on L.I. in Commack.

Thanks again.

No problem at all chris - glad to help.

As for it being reverseable process, never tried it - but with most of us here, Give us a Dremel, about 30 minutes and welcome to the school of "Willie Coyote Gunsmithing"  I would think it could be done, but the silver solder heats up to a temp of 1200 degrees F before flowing on installation, and you'd probably end up mucking up the threads/barrel before you cleanly broke off the attachment to remove it.

Chances are, you'd never do anything to that device that would necesitate its removal.

As for 'bolt on' or set screw models.  Lets start with the Oly - I've never seen one up close, but if you happen to pass by the olyarms website, you'll see that their postban barrels have a groove (and no threads).  I do believe that their brakes are designed to recess the setscrews into this channel. So in effect they are not only meant for postban 'non-threaded' barrels but those produced by Olympic themselves.

Here are some options you might consider - (still assuming you have a preban threaded barrel of 1/2x28dpi (which is standard)): the CAVComp located at www.cavalryarms.com/accessories.html.  I do believe these are thread on and 'blind pin' style - however, you might want to contact them directly via email to confirm.

Another option might be taking a look at the selection of Kurts from Kurts Kustom located at www.kurtskustomfirearms.citymax.com/page/page/29585.htm  He's got a wide variety of muzzle brakes that are spectacular.  Although I cannot personally attest to his work, I would without a doubt trust Kurt to work on my any of my firearms, just based on opinions here.  He is held in high regard around these 'parts'.  As a matter of fact, his prices for installed work may in fact be cheaper than you attempting to purchase the tools/supplies and do the work yourself. Shoot him an email -very friendly and will stear you in the right direction for what you are looking for.

Well, seeing youre part of the 'sandbar' crew & I'm upstate be sure to keep an eye out for our various meets.  You'd certainly be welcomed to join us for some great times, good food and drinks.  We've got one hell of a bunch of great fellas in the Northeast....and HiramRanger too!  Everytime we seem to gather, the group gets larger and larger - be great to bring you aboard too.

PS - This is important too here in NY for a postban lower - Make sure you dont have a bayonet lug on that front sight housing.  You'll also have to cut that off - apparently the politicos think you might engage in a drive by bayonetting!!!

flash hider = vortex FS
MB = mini y comp

the mini y comp actally pushed my barrel down when I shot

to be honest I would leave it alone you dont need either

Quoted: flash hider = vortex FS MB = mini y comp the mini y comp actally pushed my barrel down when I shot to be honest I would leave it alone you dont need either

The mini Y Comp will also not make you many friends at the range.  It is very loud and annoying to the shooters around you.  Since you can't put a FH on a postban in NY, go with either a bare muzzle or get a Smith muzzle brake.  There are a few others that are good but they do not come to mind at the moment.

As I thought my choices are limited so I'll just go with a post ban barrel.  

Thanks for all the advice