Questions and comments are welcome! (This was written from memory and my cryptic notes; Sully - or any of my fellow students who took better notes - feel free to Email me corrections and I will update the document accordingly)
M4M was kind enough to take notes on all the tools and supplies used in the class. I have included that list here, with my comments in parentheses.
Bushmaster handguard removal tool -- #HGD-Tool -- $19.95
(Makes depressing the D-ring easier, but removing the HGs can still be a 2-person job. I usually get by with a flat-blade screwdriver and a second set of hands)
Bushmaster receiver push pin tool -- #IMP-1 -- $6.95
(I own this tool and like it; it doubles as an installation tool for the front pivot pin detent. In class, we used a regular nylon punch for the pushpins and a separate stainless Fulton Armory tool for installing the detent)
Bushmaster "Go Gauge" -- #HGO-223G -- $20.95
Bushmaster "No Go Gauge" -- #HGO-223N -- $20.95
(made by Forster and available elsewhere cheaper)
Bushmaster gas tube wrench-- #MBC-01 -- $29.95
(SO handy. This is on my "to get" list)
Bushmaster action clamp -- #OM-003 -- $38.95
(an improvement over the full-size Peace River Arms clamp that I have, and cheaper/more secure than the DPMS Panther Claw)
Bushmaster lower receiver vise block -- #OM-006 -- $29.95
(we didn't actually use these. I personally use one a buddy made for me by cutting a block of wood into the shape of a magazine)
Bushmaster firing pin protrusion gauge -- #MMT-0005 -- $14.95
(again, may be a generic tool available elsewhere)
Brownells AR-15/M16 bolt ejector tool -- #939-000-003 -- $35.72
(we were shown these in class but didn't use them; I don't think it'd be necessary unless you're doing a LOT of bolt/ejector work)
Brownells Bench Block (round, grooved) -- #498-100-100 -- $12.50
(handy, but most of the ones used in class were handmade by Fritz out of some kind of polyurethane lumber; you could also use wood)
Brownells AR-15 Front Sight Bench Block -- #080-000-252 -- $34.97
(I was the only one to use one of these. It helped in steadying the barrel when doing FSB and gas tube installation and removal, but I wouldn't put it on the "must get" list, espeically if you buy the Bench Block listed above).
Brownells needle oilers (quantity 3) -- #084-038-203 --$6.67
Kroil (8-ounce can) -- #471-100-008 -- $8.90
(These go hand-in-hand. Kroil is the sh*t for everything from loosening pins to removing carbon fouling and cleaning bores, and you need the needle oilers to avoid wastage and to get into small spaces. Sully was also big on the Slip2000 line of cleaning products - specifically Carbon Cutter and 725 gun cleaner - as well as Militec-1 lube, but we used a LOT of Kroil because that's what he had the most experience with).
Dasco 5 1/2" X 3/32" pin punch -- #6472732 -- $3.89
Dasco 4 1/2" X 1/16" pin punch -- #6476659 -- $3.69
(The Dasco punches are longer than many others, and come in especially handy when installing and removing the bolt stop roll pin)
Proto 4 1/4" X 3/32" Tip Super-Duty Roll Pin Punch -- #J49332 -- $4.96
Proto 4 1/4" X 1/8" Tip Super-Duty Roll Pin Punch -- #J49018 -- $5.43
Stanley 3/32" Square Nail Set -- #58-113 -- $2.55
Stanley 5 oz. Magnetic Tack Hammer -- #54-304 -- $11.03
(you can probably find all these at your local hardware store. The nail set is a cheaper & stronger alternative to the Brownells taper pin starter. Avoid buying punch *sets*; they'll include a bunch of sizes you don't need)
Olympic Arms armorer's wrench -- #H28B -- $27
(also available direct from Oly. This wrench design is superior to the DPMS one that I have, as well as to most others I've seen. My DPMS will suffice, but if I was doing it over again I'd get the Oly).
A few things not mentioned:
1) A spare rifle-length gas tube for checking barrel nut alignment. I got the "alignment gauge" from Brownells, but it's too short to be useful. It's basically just a piece of round stock, for which they charge you 4 or 5 bucks! Screw that.
2) 3M blue painter's tape. Use a piece on either side of the bolt catch to protect the lower while you're installing or removing the bolt catch roll pin. We used 100-MPH tape in class, which left a gummy residue on the lower that had to be cleaned off later. The painters tape leaves no residue.
3) Anti-sieze compound (Permatex, Fel-Pro, etc) for use on the barrel extension, the upper receiver threads or barrel nut threads, and the muzzle threads. Makes future disassembly easier.
4) Dental pick and needle-nose pliers for manipulating gas rings, C-clips and other itty-bitty parts.
5) A ball-peen or other "real" hammer (in addition to the tack hammer) for driving FSB pins
7) Allen wrenches for the pistol grip screw and disassembling the A2 sight elevation wheel (if applicable)
8) Schuster's rear sight tool (www.adcofirearms.com/gasnuts.cfm?page=acc) - handy but not needed for detatchable carry handles, but essential for A2 uppers.
The webpage dedicated to the armorer's course looks great and was also very informative.
As for the parts list, those were found during very quick internet searches and better deals may be had elsewhere. For example, I found the Olympic Arms armorer's wrench at Triple Break for $27, but later found it on Olympic Arms' website for $22.
Also, you might be able to "get by" with cheaper products, but the exact name brands on each product were recommended in class, so I would stick with them if at all possible.
I really wanted to makle it up for that one...oh well.
Be sure to check out Midway for tools.I got a FS cradle 510-569 for 28$.
431-075 gas tube pin punch
694-883 roll pin starters but these can be found cheaper on the`WWW
231-625 shuster bolt tool 22$
I found those tools to be handy,,,also a slick little offset punch for the bolt catch pin that I don't remember where I got.
See ya next time