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9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 1/22/2006 2:57:49 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/22/2006 2:58:45 PM EDT by New4John]
I've been searching in the 1911 forum and it's all over the map.
I know we have some 1911 fans around here so I'll ask you guys.

I'm "customizing" my own from an old plinker I had laying around.
It's a 4.25" commander.
Do you guys see the need to step up to an 20# or more recoil spring or an stock 18# one OK?

What says you?

ETA: I"m going to a FL guide rod.
Link Posted: 1/22/2006 3:09:24 PM EDT
Nothing like a thread with no replies...But, I am not the person to ask about 1911s, sorry...just bumping the thread.

ByteTheBullet (-:
Link Posted: 1/22/2006 3:22:30 PM EDT
I wouldn't upgrade unless ejectino was sporatic, obviously weak, or just not positive.
For the money it costs, it's not an expensive upgrade though.
Link Posted: 1/22/2006 3:46:02 PM EDT
Go to this page and read up in the 1911 clinic,search the threads,and ask Old Fuff and 1911Tuner:

Very good easy to read info on 1911's and other guns.
Link Posted: 1/22/2006 3:53:04 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/22/2006 4:25:46 PM EDT by Bradd_D]
I run a Wolff 16.5 lb variable (16 lb is stock) in my Colt Gov't. I would highly recommend talking to this guy.
Link Posted: 1/22/2006 4:06:33 PM EDT
Stay with the factory 18lb unless a fresh spring ejects your brass over 6-8 feet back, with 3-5 feet being ideal, in that case you could experiment, but it shouldn't be necessary unless the mainspring has been changed to a lighter one, a much lighter one, which I wpouldn't reccomend either. All the springs are supposed towork in relationship to each other.

Heavier recoil spring slows rearward movement down and increases forward movement speed which in turn causes a need for the magazine to have to get the next round in place faster to get it to slip upthe breechfacre and under the extractor, etc....

Slower rearward movement may cause erratic ejection or stovepipes of it's to much....

If you are unsure about the quaility or wear on the springs, order a service pack from Wolff and replace all of them, it's good, cheap maintenence.
Link Posted: 1/22/2006 4:11:48 PM EDT
BTW a full length guide rod does nothing besides making dissasembly more difficult.
Link Posted: 1/22/2006 4:18:33 PM EDT

Originally Posted By jmarkma:
BTW a full length guide rod does nothing besides making dissasembly more difficult.

While a FLG isn't necessary, if you engage the thumb safety, the gun is no harder to disassemble.
Link Posted: 1/22/2006 4:41:32 PM EDT
Geat info.
Thanks for the feedback!
Link Posted: 1/22/2006 4:48:52 PM EDT

Originally Posted By New4John:
Geat info.
Thanks for the feedback!

Glad I could help.

ByteTheBullet (-:
Link Posted: 1/23/2006 6:34:56 AM EDT
You normally also neede to modify the back of a FLGR in a commander to assure smooth and complete cycling. If you are cutting a Govt size one down, remember to shorten the bushing also. If you are buying a Commander legnth, make sure the bushing is short enough.
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