Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
PSA
Member Login

Site Notices
Posted: 10/21/2010 5:28:55 PM EDT
So, seems dumb, but I ended up torquing a grip screw too tight and now when I try to take the grip off, the entire grip screw bushing screws out of the frame. I don't understand why Kimberly wouldn't reverse thread the grip screw bushing into the frame, but I guess that's a moot point...
Anyway, any ideas on how to get the grip screw out of the corresponding bushing without damaging the threads? I was thinking of using a thread dealer on the bushing threads to strengthen the contacts between the bushing and the frame and maybe allow me to.break the grip screw loose.

Any suggestions, ideas,  or input appreciated.
Link Posted: 10/21/2010 7:50:32 PM EDT
Link Posted: 10/21/2010 10:19:47 PM EDT
Originally Posted By SGB:

Degrease the frame threads and the bushing threads, apply a drop of blue loctite and reinstall the grip bushing. Allow the thread sealer to cure overnight before removing the screw.


Yup.
Link Posted: 10/23/2010 10:51:51 PM EDT
Is this just a Kimber thing? I had a Custom II and the right upper grip bushing loosened instead of the screw. I recently traded for a TLE/RL Pro and the same upper right bushing came out.

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
Link Posted: 10/23/2010 11:01:01 PM EDT
Happens in a lot of 1911s, including a colt and springfield I had. Previous owner put loctite on the grip screws.
Link Posted: 10/24/2010 4:00:04 AM EDT
This happened on my Wilson CQB.  It can happen on any 1911.  Reinstalling with Loctite will fix it.
Link Posted: 10/24/2010 4:39:43 AM EDT
I have also heard of some staking the bushing.  Maybe this was before the creation of blue loctite?
Link Posted: 10/24/2010 10:57:54 AM EDT
Originally Posted By The_Watcher:
I have also heard of some staking the bushing.  Maybe this was before the creation of blue loctite?


It happens because someone at some point over tightens the grip screws,grip screws do not need to be overtightened.
Or the guns have sat for a bit of time,moisture has a way of making things metal stick.
For the bushings either have them restaked properly or use loctite-RED loctite is recommended over blue.Blue loctite
will allow the bushing to loosen up eventually,especially if you shoot a bit.Red is more permanent,and will withstand use much better,
while still allowing the bushing to be removed.
If you try to removed a grip screw and it's tight,instead of trying to removed the grip screw with more force-oil the center of the gip screw bushing from the inside of the magwell,let the screws sit soaking in a little oil and try again to loosen the screws...might be the ticket to solve the issue...

Happy shooting...

Link Posted: 10/26/2010 11:25:19 AM EDT
...yeah meant thread SEALER but posted from my phone and it thinks it can spell better than I can.

Also, isn't the red locktite the permanent one? I'd like to be able to get the bushings off if I want to do any work on the pistol or need to replace them. Even if the blue loosens over time, I have no problem reapplying it and can always include some in my range kit. If it isn't permanent though, and just holds a little better, then hell yeah.

Also, I've head somewhere that the old school White-Out was originally developed as a thread sealer. Can anyone verify that?
Link Posted: 10/26/2010 1:30:06 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/26/2010 1:32:27 PM EDT by coltnut]
Also, isn't the red locktite the permanent one?


All Locktite's are removable,event the red,the "color" rating is just a higher torque rating,takes more torque to break free is all.Below is chart with info
on torque needed to break free the different "colors" of Locktite.Grip bushing are generally not meant to be removed very often,so the red locktite is perfect for that application,they will withstand much higher force with red locktite,but still removable should the need arise.


"Typical properties of various thread-locking fluids (Devcon-Permatex products) [5] Type Typical color-code Torque to break free Torque to continue turning Temperature range .
Purple-Low strength purple 62 in-lb (7 N-m) 27 in-lb (3 N-m) -54 to 149 °C
Blue115-Medium strength blue 115 in-lb (12 N-m) 53 in-lb (6 N-m) -54 to 149 °C
Blue180-Medium strength surface insensitive blue 180 in-lb (20 N-m) 62 in-lb (7 N-m) -54 to 149 °C
Red230-High strength red 230 in-lb (25 N-m) 225 in-lb (25 N-m) -54 to 149 °C
Red180-High temperature red 180 in-lb (20 N-m) 270 in-lb (30 N-m) -54 to 232 °C  
"
Top Top