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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 3/26/2006 12:03:24 PM EST
I wanted to replace some fire control parts in my used Kimber, including sear and disconnector.

The sear is working, but the G.I disconnector I bought isn't letting the hammer to fall all the way forward about 20% of the times. I looked at the original and G.I disconnector I just bought and they are a little different.

I was doing this to improve the trigger crispness just before the hammer drops but now I'm back to using original disconnector. Any ideas?

P.S The new Kimber TLE my dad bought has much nicer stock trigger than my used Kimber does. I just can't figure out what dictates how a trigger feels just before the hammer drops...

Link Posted: 3/26/2006 7:03:35 PM EST
Before I say anything about this, I have a few questions. When you say GI disconnector, do you mean a U.S. military G.I. spec disconnector? If so, how do you know it's a G.I. disconnector? Did someone tell you that, or did you get it out of a military gun that was all original? How do you know the disconnector you have is not out of spec?

When you say it doesn't fall all the way forward, is it stopping at half cock? How are the two different?

Kimber uses their own disconnector in their gun, and it's the same as the Chip McCormick disconnector. I don't know who actually makes it for Kimber or Chip McCormick. It has a small donut at the top, for lack of a better description. In my opinion, they are a horrible disconnector, and one of the worst out there. Are you positive you have the actual factory disconnector in the gun?
Link Posted: 3/27/2006 10:07:51 AM EST
[Last Edit: 3/27/2006 10:11:43 AM EST by ThreeMan]
Kimbers/Chip McCormick disconectors have the donut to take up the slop that is usually found between the disconector and hole. This may mean that Kimbers frames holes are drilled wider for the disconector (I Don't Know) and if that is the case any standard disconnector would have too much slop and not work correctly. Hence what you are experiencing.

In the past 70's -80's gunsmiths would punch the frame just in front of the disconector hole to help tighten the disconector. This would give the smith greater control for tuning a trigger job. McCormick found a different way to do it with their style of disconnector.

But I do not believe that your experience or unhappiness of your trigger pull is your factory disconnector.
It's the hammer and sear contact surfaces that you are feeling. Don't mess with these parts unless you know what you are doing.

Make sure you clean the pistol (Completely take the pistol apart to little pins and parts). Put the pistol back together and try your trigger again. If its not to your satisfaction you can do the next step.

If you want you can use anouther old gunsmith trick I'll share with you.

Make sure the pistol is unloaded!!!!!
Cock the hammer, Then push forward hard on the hammer while pulling the trigger as in firing the pistol. Do this about 5 times. Your trigger will feel better.

Leave your original factory disconnector in the pistol.
Link Posted: 3/27/2006 10:14:42 AM EST
Just re-read your posting.

Put original sear back on the pistol before you use my JuJu.

By changing the sear and disconnector you changes a whole lot of things that can cause an un-safe situation.
Link Posted: 3/27/2006 4:27:37 PM EST
[Last Edit: 3/27/2006 4:49:35 PM EST by MaverickMkii]
I got the G.I disconnector from the gunshop owner that I frequent. I just took a picture of the disconnectors;

G.I (assumed) disconnector is on the left and Kimber factory original is on the right.
When I use the G.I disconnector, it doesn't fall all the way forward...seems like its stopping at half cock as Mr. hobbs mentioned above.

I already have cleaned the gun real good but I will try the old gunsmith trick. Thanks!

Update; I kept the old disconnector but replaced sear with a new one. This seems to have solved the problem. Thank you very much for your insights...I thought disconnector had something to do with that last let-off!
Link Posted: 3/28/2006 3:15:02 AM EST
Well, I see ThreeMan has more than adequately addressed the issue. Nice job.

As far as Kimber's disconnector goes, the tunnel is not any wider. That donut is in fact there to take out slop and help prevent disconnector click. Unfortunately, it often leads to a situation where binding is present, limiting rearward movement of the trigger/sear/diconnector. In my experience, about 10% - 20% of the Kimbers I've done trigger jobs on are so limited by the disconnector that it's impossible to avoid half cock sear rub. This is not caused by overtravel stops on triggers, grip safety studs, or thumb safety studs, but simply an overly tight disconnector.

Maverick, the reason I asked about the disconnector that you bought is that it should not cause the situation you have. If the guy said it was GI, maybe it is, maybe it isn't. However, it is most likely severely out of spec. The bottom tab on the disconnector (the flat surface) is the link between the back of the trigger bow and the bottom of the sear feet. It sounds like when you pull the trigger, as the sear moves, the feet of the sear are slipping off the top of the disconnector tab, allowing it to snap back and catch the hammer's half cock notch. This can be caused by several things, such as overly shortened or excessively polished sear feet, an overly loose fit in the frame's diconnector tunnel, or the diconnector being too long in a couple different spots. I don't now what the deal is with yours, but if you paid any real money for it, I would take it back. If it was cheap, I wouldn't worry about it.

Link Posted: 3/28/2006 9:30:01 AM EST
I understand, thank you for your insight Hobbs.

That G.I (or whatever) disconnector cost me $7. I will get either Wilson or Ed Brown disconnector next time when the disconnector gives me any problems. I almost got the Wilson but decided to try G.I for the heck of it.

Buy cheap and pay twice...
Link Posted: 3/28/2006 7:57:52 PM EST

Originally Posted By MaverickMkii:
I understand, thank you for your insight Hobbs.

That G.I (or whatever) disconnector cost me $7. I will get either Wilson or Ed Brown disconnector next time when the disconnector gives me any problems. I almost got the Wilson but decided to try G.I for the heck of it.

Buy cheap and pay twice...

At least you have a spare disconnector. If you're a true 1911 addict, then simply having that one spare part is excuse enough to get all the other parts to build a complete 1911.
Link Posted: 3/30/2006 6:13:52 AM EST
I just put a Ed Brown Perfection Disconnector in my Pro Carry II and it works just fine.


A 45 may not expand but it will never be smaller than .45.

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