The more I look into it, the more I'm finding that I'm going to need to have my new 1911 "built to order". I haven't decided which manufacturer to go with but I'm favoring Nighthawk at the moment.

As such, help a brother out.

If you were to get a gift certificate from the manufacturer of your choice, what features would you insist on and why?

What's wrong with 20 lpi front strap checkering?

MIM internals versus tool steel?

Specifically, I'm liking the GRP Recon from Nighthawk (minus the goofing GRP markings on the right side of the slide) and the PC9112 Custom Operator from Springfield Armory (I love the full length rail. A co-worker carries one and it balances the pistol beautifully, IMHO).

Anyhow...what features should I insist on if I end up having to "roll my own"?

Specs thus far:

The Custom 1911 That Arfcom Built For Evil
Manufacturer: Unknown
Internals: Tool Steel
Magwell: Funnel
Mainspring Housing: Flat, with flush fit lanyard capability
Front Strap: Checking @ 25 or 30 lpi
Grip Style High Ride Beavertail
Grips (Stocks): Undecided
Trigger: 3.5 or 4 pound
Trigger Guard: High cut
Mag Release: Standard
Slide Release: Standard
Safety: Extended Ambi Safety
Hammer: Undecided
Sights: Undecided (Dovetail)
Slide: Rear serrations
Barrel: Undecided (5")
Finish: Undecided (Matte Black of some kind)

Notes
Pistol will be a 5 inch.
Pistol will be carried daily both urban/rural. Must be 100% reliable.
Prefer the Springfield-style full length rail (as per the PC9112 C.O.).
Internals/External must be de-horned/de-burred.
Lowered/flared ejection port.

Heinie Slant Pro sights, and a Heinie magwell.

While it may be viewed as heresy by the JMB faithful, I'm considering having XS tritium Big Dots installed. I have them on all of my Glocks and have found them to be a great balance of speed/accuracy.

I have no hands on experience with the Heinie sights.

Pros and cons?

I like Heinies. Mine come without the leg on the back. Good sight picture, but if big dots work best, go for that. I do not like Nighthawk, I think they have poor quality control and inflated prices.

20LPI is pretty rough. I like 25LPI, and I have a callous on my flank. I like a roundbutt, just a simple radius, not a bobtail. High cut front strap, etc.

I suggest you call Jason Burton at Heirloom Precision and tell him you want a gun built just like Combat_Jacks commercial. He will know what you mean.

High ride beavertail, good night sights atleast up front. A decent sized thumb safety and checkering on the front strap. Lowered and flared ejection port, everything else to me is just fluff I guess.

Other than that Id just want it put together properly.

I like 20 lines per inch checkering.

I like a high swept beavertail grip safety  to get a high grip on the frame. EdBrown and CMC are my favorites.

I like Bo-Mar and NOVAK sights.

I like a quality trigger job.

I like the ED BROWN wide thumb safety.

I like a hand fitted KART MN barrel.

I like an industrial hardchrome finish.

One of my custom 1911 builds.....

I've had both enough times to know:

There's really nothing wrong with MIM.  

My STI Trojan has MIM, even on the hammer and sear, and it's trigger job is better than my $2k+ famous smith custom Colt (not that there's anything at all wrong with the custom Colt).  I've risen above the MIM is bad issue.  

I would go with front strap checkering.  It's awesome, even at 20 lpi, which is kinda rough, 'specially if you're a soft handed desk jockey.  Get 25 lpi if you can, or 30.  I've got 30 on the Colt and love it. but it's spendy and 25 might be more resistant to being dropped and dinged.  

Also must haves are a beavertail, trigger job, dehorn and good sights.

You need the gunsmith to add good DOVETAILED sights (nothing staked), and a high-ride beavertail. Everything else can be done by you over time with simple hand tools. First upgrade should be a match hammer/trigger/sear and a flat MSH (my personal preference). Here is mine... I stared with a basinc Springer GI and did everything except the milling for the sights:

Custom piece.

1) The slide shall be free of the abomination known as forward slide serrations.
2) Dito for an FLGR.
3) Dovetail sights. Novak or Trijicon for a carry piece, Bomars or Millets for a target gun
4) Fitted Kart barrel (would consider others Bar-sto etc.)
6) Dark finish of some sort
7) high end wood, double diamonds or 1/2 checker.

The Trojan has a few MIM parts, but the hammer etc. are EDM.

I wold INSIST that my next custom 1911 actualy WORK.
First time I pulled the triger it went "CLICK",the only problem with that is that there was a live round in the chamber.
70-80% failure to fire.
Sent it back,now it only fails 5-10% with the added bonus of crushing 70-80% of my brass.
Guess I'll send it back AGIAN after the New Year.

1. Can someone who has used both the Heinies and the XS Big Dots comment offer a comparison? Of the two, I've only used Big Dots.

2. Will 30 lpi be too "fragile" for a field/daily CCW piece?

3. What the piss is a "FLGR"?

4. What's the scoop on 10-8 parts? I've never used them but the name keeps popping up.

Pardon the questions, particularly if they seem goofy. My only 1911 experience has been with stock commercial pistols. I'm a neophyte to the custom game.

Original post updated with specs thus far.

Thanks in advance...

Trumpet:
You spec Tool Steel internals but listed SA as an option...don't they use mostly MIM in their pistols?

To be clear, I'm looking at having a pistol built from the ground up at a custom shop: not sending one of my existing 1911s in to be re-worked.

Thanks a bunch!

"... We have long maintained that the only accessories that a 1911 needs are a trigger you can manage, sights that you can see, and a dehorning job. That still goes."

~Jeff Cooper










 

I've already got a few of those.

Now I want all that plus a leather mini skirt and FMBs for my new lady.

I plan on having the 'smith supply build something from scratch.

We're in agreement that shopping the 'smiths would be the best bet and I definitely plan on doing that.

My problem is simply that I don't feel educated enough on the topic of custom 1911s to even know what I want. My only experience has been with stock Colts and Springfields.

Thanks for the info on Springfield, BTW. I wasn't aware that their custom shop used tool steel.

FLGR = Full length guide rod........however I say keep it simple and field strippable with the stock GI guide.

I Strongly prefer the NOVAK sights for a carry piece, as they are low profile and don't snag on clothing......fairly rounded and dehorned out of the box.

And I'd go parkerized for a finish.  I love the look of a professionally duracoated gun but can't stand the nicks and chips that inevitably show up.  Choose a metal finish, not a paint.

My sweat eats bluing and parkerizing like crazy.

I prefer HARDCHROME by Tripp research or METALIFE

Manufacturer: Colt or SA.
Internals: Prefer Tool Steel ("old school" here)
Magwell: Beveled
Mainspring Housing: Arched, serrated w/lanyard compatibility
Front Strap: Plain
Grip Style: Original 1911-A1
Grips (Stocks): Checkered wood
Trigger: Short w/3.5-4 pound pull
Trigger Guard: High cut or original
Mag Release: Standard
Slide Release: Standard
Safety: Either Colt's or King's ambi safety ("lefty" here)
Hammer: Standard 1911-A1  
Sights: 3 dot, fixed, high visibility, combat
Slide: Rear serrations only
Barrel: No particular preference, but require Wilson's Dwyer Group Gripper and fitted match bushing
Finish: Matt stainless steel or parkerized
MAIN REQUIREMENT - NO USELESS, FRIGGIN' FULL LENGTH GUIDE ROD!!!

KC's next build idea - after the AR SBR/Pistol
Manufacturer: Springfield Mil-Spec 5" or 4", or light weight Champion - carry piece .45
Internals: Tool Steel - Wilson or Brown
Magwell:  SA Mil-Spec comes with slight bevel, personally don't preffer mag well
Mainspring Housing: Lanyard compatible, but flush, GUNCRAFTER
Front Strap: Checking 30 lpi
Grip Style: GI with upper area recessed for commander hammer
Grips (Stocks): rubber dimond checkered, black
Trigger: 3.5-4 pound, solid (no holes) but extended length
Trigger Guard: High cut
Mag Release: Standard
Slide Release: Kings Extended
Safety: Kings pinned Ambi
Hammer: commander style STI
Sights:  3 dot, tritium, different color front than rear, no snag
Slide: Rear serrations, no fronts serrations, 4 leaf clover milled behind rear serrations
Barrel: Stainless manufacture decided?
Finish: OD green coated

like 50goats: GI guide rod and plug, smooth plug if standard 5", LW champion I'd be stuck with guide rod, I've replaced the FLGR in both my Kimbers for GI style

ETA: read through the posts again, 1911's have alot of options just like AR's - they're just like a Camaro, it takes a bit of time, but not too much, there's just alot of options on the market, my 3 builds have been.

My first 1911 build wasn't too fancy, 1995 Mil-Spec Champion, black 3 hole kings trigger, kimber extended safety left over from my TLE-II, S&W flat checkered MSH, wilson slide release, had a drop in beaver tail it got caught on things, still has originial mil-spec sights, added hex grip screws (wooo) and smooth white acrilic grips, did 100% of the work my self and got lucky.  

My second is a NRA hard Ball .45, SA Mil-spec, Bomar sights, trigger job and internals replacement, stock trigger, S&W flat MSH, stock barrel still shoots better than the operator, GI wood grips and the hex grip screws (wooo) trigger job done by gun smith, dam gun is cursed I have issues with setting trigger to correct weight.

My third build SA Mil-spec, drop in beaver tail (yup left overs) colt commander hammer, pachmayr rap around grips, rail added drilled and tapped, bag of colt internals from gun show, tritium sights front orange rear green, kings 3 hole black trigger and pinned ambi safety, ambi mag release, S&W MSH taken to machine shop for lanyard hole to be drilled, stock barrel, tightened up barrel link, coated black slide and green frame, modeled after USMC MEU SOC pistol, was build for a friend... went 99% smoothly, gun smith installed sights and cut dove tails, I did all the lower parts, totally disassembled, smoothed out rough edges, coated by a weekend gunsmither in his garage, I reassembled then transfered through FFL.  

after you get going, it's like a sickness...

I listed SA as an option because they also make "gunsmith" frames and slides.  I would lean towards RRA though.  If you were going to send in a stock SA 1911 to have smithed, the internals would be the first to go.  Since it's a "ground up" deal, I don't think any smith worth his salt would recommend MIM anyway

Evil-ATF, I have a Nighthawk Custom Vickers with the Heinie straight 8 night sights and a Nighthawk Talon 2 bobtail, both are as reliable as a Glock and don`t believe every thing you read on here about Nighthawk`s Customer service because it is second to none, they are absolutely wonderful. I have been told that the Ashley sight is faster but the Heinie sight will deliver a more precision shot.

K.I.S.S.

A magwell designed for carry...

This is what I'm going have built this summer

Manufacturer:Springfield Armory MC Operator or Kimber SIS or Caspian Recon (Foster ind)
Internals:Trigger group by Cylinder and Slide 4.5lb Tactical package + Ed Brown (If caspian)
Magwell: S&A
Mainspring Housing:S&A
Front Strap: Checking @ 25 or 30 lpi w/ undercut trigger guard
Grip Style: High Ride Beavertail (ed brown)
Grips (Stocks): VZ Operators
Trigger:Cylinder & Slide smooth
Mag Release: Standard
Slide Release: Standard
Safety:Kimber Extended Ambi Safety
Hammer:comes w/ C&S package
Sights: Kimber's Meprolights or Straight 8s o Novaks
Slide: SIS machined out, others factory w/ FCS (if Caspian)
Barrel: Kart (maybe Nowlin)
Finish: Bearcoat or Black T

I appreciate all the input. This gives me a few ideas on which direction to go.

I've discovered that most of your higher end gunsmiths
will only build on steel no aluminum so having a steel frame
would not only be my preference but a necessity

DoubleARon, if that's a Heinie magwell, it'll cost somewhere between $550 and 800 bucks- gotta cut the frame, etc.  Gotta balance that against what else that much money could buy.

For what? The magwell and installation? I don't think it costs that much.

Most places will supply and install it for 300-350. Considering that the magwell itself is 150 bucks, I wouldn't consider that excessive.

Matt Davis will install it for $135.

I'm going to have to purchase a Colt because your avatar
is killing me & I've seen the larger pic also.BEAUTIFUL!

Is it me? or does you barrel need cleaning?

It's you.  Looks beautiful to me

I will probably get banned for this, but any 1911 I will own will have front cocking serrations.

Manufacturer:Kimber (Kimber Warrior)
Internals:
Magwell: S&A
Mainspring Housing:S&A Curved
Front Strap: Checking @ 25 or 30 lpi w/ undercut trigger guard
Grip Style: High Ride Beavertail
Grips (Stocks): AlumaGrips, Heavy Checkering
Trigger: Flat Front, Match
Mag Release: Standard
Slide Release: Kimber Extended
Safety: Kimber Extended Single Side Safety
Hammer:
Sights: Kimber's Meprolights
Slide:
Barrel:
Finish: CeraKote Armor Black

That it is utterly reliable and fits YOUR needs to a T. Contact some of the Smiths featured at the top of this page and hash out a plan.

What I personally would insist on for a custom 1911?


This smith assembling it!


Bob Miller FTW!

You know, he looked much taller on TV.

Mr. Miller does do very nice work. From what I've read and seen on this site and others, he is a very personable stand-up guy and provides an excellent service. What’s great is he's young and will be around for a while

The only things that I would insist on are 100% reliability, good sights, and an extended/ambi safety.

I've been shooting and building 1911's with friend's and on my own since 1986 or so (buddies' dad owned a gun shop) and over the years I've tried just about everything on a gun at one point or another (mag wells, extended slide stops, full length guide rods, aimpoints, large mag releases, checkering, grip tape, aluma-grips, rubber grips, light rails, bushings, cone barrels, compensators, porting, etc)

The only things that I really care about now are the sights, the ambi/extended safety, and that the gun works.  I know that parts of the gun working will come down to barrel, slide, frame fit, and a whole bunch of other parts, but I'm not as worried about who makes them as I used to be.

If the smith has to open the ejection port for reliability then so be it, but if not and the gun still functions then good to go.

Oh, I guess I CAN think of two more things I would want/need.  5-10 magazines, all the same, and all test fired and checked to make sure they WORK in the pistol, I see guys buying top dollar 1911's and then they go and put a surplus GI mag from 1972 in it and wonder why it doesn't work...  

Lastly a nice de-horning job and custom finish, since I seem to have the ability of just looking at a gun and starting it to rust.  

I'm just learning about 1911's but I'd like to find out. Generally, how much will what you are talking about cost?

Depends on the smith, and the options. The D&L sports pistols can go for around $4k... From Bob Miller, to get a 4k pistol, you'd have to get just about every bell and whistle possible, and even then you'd come up a healthy distance short... I've opted for a plethora of bells and whistles, and I'm  a comfortable distance south of $3k. I know of another smith charging like 10k for a gun, and I'd never heard the name before I saw the website. A Ted Yost signature grade is listed on his website for $5,500 , Novak has a big price range, expect to pay just south of 2k, on up. IIRC, cylinder and slide's have a range like that. The springfield Pro is around $2,600 unless I'm mistaken.

Again for this stuff it depends on which options, and what smith. Still though the idea of a full custom 1911, to really go on and on about pricing is kinda missing the point. The idea is the gun is YOURS. It's made the way YOU want it, it's one of a kind- everything you want, and nothing you don't. For some a gun is a life saving tool and sometimes a hobby tool, one for which price is no object. Some people say that after you've shot a high end 1911, there's no going back .

If it was MY money? I'd go with a Miller Custom (Which I did ), but the SA Pro is a great gun at the price, Yost does great work- as do they all. I'll put it this way, 918v here is a real hardass. In terms of the brutality of his gun opinions, he makes Simon Cowell look like Andrea Mitchell watching an Obama debate- it's next to impossible to impress the guy, and he's brutally honest. But the SA Pro impresses him, (as it does for many other users!). It's a damn good gun. Personally I'd love to send him my Miller Custom 1911 just to see if there can be a second best 1911 in the world, but I'd be worried about UPS losing it, etc.

But if it were my money, the SA or the MC. IMO D&L sports charges a stupid amount- for the quality of the work he puts out! A guy here got actually laughed at for the de-horning job, and what looked like a retard took a file to the side of the slide , and he plunked down A LOT of coin for that. If a $1500 semi-custom les baer or wilson combat made it out of their factory, they'd about blow you to make it right! .... Nighthawk would tell you to pound sand .

So in closing, it varies on the smith, and what options. But the range I guess would look something like this:

....

















.....

Hey, Foxnews_FTW ! I also worry quite a bit about impressing the "Usual Suspects" with my 1911s. NOT !


(I have TWO Miller Colts and I am trying to wait patiently for my third to return.
)

Dude I can't wait  to get my hands on mine

I already plan on having him make one for my chicky snack in the future, and at least one more after that!

Manufacturer: Colt
Internals: Tool Steel
Magwell: standard
Mainspring Housing: flat, snakeskin scallops
Front Strap: snakeskin scallops
Grip Style High Ride Beavertail
Grips (Stocks): Carbon Creations
Trigger: STI polymer 4 pound
Trigger Guard: standard
Mag Release: standard, checkered
Slide Release: Standard
Safety: Extended Safety
Hammer: Les Baer deluxe match
Sights: Novak Extreme Duty tritium
Slide: Rear snakeskin scallops
Barrel: Nowlin 5" national match SS
Finish: matte stainless

I have a pretty short list of pistolsmiths that I would send a gun to, simply because they routinely turn out the kind of guns I'd want.  Some of my tastes seem to fluctuate from time to time, but I always come back to a core set of features.

I see plenty of others who do great work, but their guns don't appeal to me.  No criticism of their work, but the whole point of a custom is to get exactly what you want.

I also think that if you're seriously seeking guidance from others on what features to spec out for your gun, you probably need put a lot more rounds through a few 1911s.  At the very least, try out a broad range of 1911s to see what works for you and what doesn't.

At the risk of having you skip over what I just wrote, I'll list my preferences anyway, for a carry gun.

Frame & Slide: Colt, LB or Caspian, in that order.
Barrel: Kart, Nowlin, Schuemann, Bar-Sto, in that order.  Ramped if not .45 ACP.  Standard bushing and recoil system.
Internals: SVI, C&S, Wilson / Brown premium line.
Magwell: Highly hogged-out frame opening, no added metal.
Frontstrap: High-cut that doesn't look like ass, with checkering from 25 to 40 lpi.
MSH: Flat, checkered to match frontstrap.  No lanyard loop, slightly roundbutted.
Beavertail: Brown high-ride with memory bump, sensitized.
Grip stocks: Checkered wood, no double diamonds.  Could also go with slightly aggressive Micarta, but not too abrasive.
Trigger: solid silver, medium length, no screw hole, slightly grooved face, overtravel pad filed to fit, pretravel tabs.  4#, 0 creep.
Safety: Strong side, slightly extended, dehorned, detent set to "stiff, but will wear in to 'smooth' ".
Hammer: Dehorned along edges.
Sights: Trijicon target front (w/ white ring), YB Pro rear, black, in Novak cut.  Second choice: XS Standard Dot tritium front, 10/8 U-notch rear in Novak cut.
Slide: Fine, Baer-style rear grasping grooves only.  Dehorned, with 40lpi serrated top rib, French borders.
Finish: Medium polish (400-600 grit), Ionbond DLC, hot blue, Melonite, or hard chrome if I wanted a white gun.  No polymer coating under pain of death.  Would also accept stainless.
Maker's mark:  Unobtrusive, small shop name on bottom of dust cover if possible, or on right side, front of dust cover.  A small logo on rearmost portion of slide flats is also cool.  (I really dig what Mr. Yost used to do with his inlaid "Y" right there).