I have a new 1911 that scares the crap out of me. Every once in a while, the best way I can describe it the thing will double tap on me. It is a Kimber, and after talking with several people, the gun is not the problem but I am. They said I am "limp wristing" it. Well my question is this never happens with my Sig P220- never. So is this a problem I am only going to have with the 1911 designed guns?      

FWIW, if your reaction to the recoil is causing the pistol to double-tap that's one thing, but if your handling the recoil and NOT re-setting the trigger and re-pressing it DUE TO THE RECOIL, this is a pistol that needs a trip back to where it was made.......

I had a G21 that developed this quirk, one squeeze of the trigger got ya 2 rounds on the target.

IF I could have been certain that it'd stop with 2 rounds, that might be one thing but when there's 14 rounds of 45acp in the mag, should it go FA, you'd for certain end up killin folks behind ya, as the recoil would probably have "recoiled" your hands in back of your head by the time the 14th round goes off.

Learned the hard way once about breakin the sear edge on an older 1911 I thought I was smoothing the trigger on. It only had a 7 rnd. mag and went FA....., the last 4 rounds stiched right up the batter-board at the range I was at, quite a startling affair and one that attracted far more attention than I wanted.

No too safe when big bore rounds are in use, so I'd sent it back if it's the pistol.

Mike

Thanks for the reply.

I am handling the recoil as far as I can tell. My Sig is a .45, I have had it for 3 years and no problems at all there. Only difference would be it's not a 1911 design. Everytime the double tap occured, I swore my finger was no where near the trigger. I still say it's the gun but everyone I spoke with said it was me. But you think it may be the gun? Maybe a call to Kimber is in order?

Have a freind shot it and see if they have they same problems.Then at least you'll know if it is you or not.I also switched from a sig220 to a kimber nevered had that problem so it maybe your gun.
Sureshot45

I agree in letting someone else shoot it. Preferably someone that's very experienced shooting 1911s. You wouldn't believe all the grief, expense and work I had done to a brand new Kimber that would never function reliably. I finally had one of the CDP Masters in my IDPA club shoot it during a match. Not a hiccup in 50 rounds. I couldn't get past a single mag. We started reviewing my grip and discovered that I had changed my grip about the time I bought this gun. Live and learn. <shrug>

I'll second all the advice given, but it's not unreasonable that it could be the gun.  I seem to remember an article in ShotgunNews about the Kimber UltraCDP, and the test sample doubled a few times then went FA on the reviewer.  (according to the reviewer it kept the whole magazine on the paper!)  A trip to back to kimber fixed the problem.  If I remember correctly Kimber even covered the shipping.  All though it was for a well known gun writer.  

Well we may be getting somewhere then. My Kimber is an Ultra CDP -maybe it's not me after all

SGB: I think I understand what you mean. That Kimber's trigger resets though and is ready to fire if a strong wind blows by. Are you saying I might be hitting it through the follow up?

Guys: Thanks for all the responses -this is exactly why I love and became a member of this website

No guarantee it will be a definitive test, but make sure the gun is empty, then cock the hammer, pull the trigger and deliberately hold it to the rear while cycling the slide...let it SLAM home. Does the pistol fire (dryfire) when the slide locks while the trigger is still being held back? If not, release the trigger until you hear the "click" of the sear reset and do it again... do it a couple more times...don't get crazy with this! If the pistol will not fire on its own this way, there is a very high probibality that you are encountering the problem SGB noted. If it does fire, send it back to Kimber immediately for repair. They will make it good.

iKor,
I tried your test multiple times and it never fired. Just to repeat the instructions to verify I did exactly what you wanted:

Made sure it was unloaded.
I cocked the gun and then fired it.
Kept the trigger pressed after dry firing it and pulled the slide all the way back and let it slam home. Repeated this several times all the while keeping that trigger pressed. The hammer never left the cocked position.

I tried it several times.

Thanks!

Whatever happens, I'd caution you not to put more than 2-3 rounds in a mag until you get this straightened out.  If the thing does slip and go FA, a full mag will be a Really Bad Thing.

Quoted: I have a new 1911 that scares the crap out of me. Every once in a while, the best way I can describe it the thing will double tap on me. It is a Kimber, and after talking with several people, the gun is not the problem but I am. They said I am "limp wristing" it. Well my question is this never happens with my Sig P220- never. So is this a problem I am only going to have with the 1911 designed guns?

I would expect a heavy steel gun to be less prone to limp wristing than a lighter aluminum or plastic framed gun. I doubt you are lip wristing, that usually results in a jam. More likely you are touching the trigger during recoil. Does the Kimber have a shorter/lighter trigger pull?

Don,
The Kimber has a very light trigger pull.

Update: I called Kimber and they said it is the gun not me. They want me to ship it back to them.

Thanks for all the help guys!!

Interesting....perhaps Kimber just had a few slip past QC (happens to everyone sooner or later I guess)

Glad to hear they're making it right for ya.

-FOTBR

I've got a fairly new Kimber and when I fire it, it works normal.  When my brother shoots it with limp wrist, it doubles once and a while.  Kimbers have a very light single action triger pull, so it may not be the gun.