Hey All.

I traded a AR that i was only into $400 for a Colt Trooper 357 Magnum. According to the serial number it was made in 1977 and besides the bluing being gone on the barrel it seems to be in great shape. It has a 4" barrel (someone painted the front sight area yellow which im planning on removing) and it also came with a 6" barrel extra. Overall im very happy with the trade as ive been wanting a 357 magnum and so far I think this will stick with me for a very long time.

Any info i need to know on these? Looking online it seemed prices fluctuated all over the place from $150 to $1500. Are they generally good guns? Im hoping next weekend to get some time to go try it out. Any ammunition i should stay away from or any you would all suggest?

thanks!

Pics.







I also got a ton of reloading components with it. like rcbs carbide die set, 500 pieces of 357 brass, 500 158gr rainier HP's etc. Im looking forward to learn loading for this caliber since ive only ever loaded 300 Blackout before.

Cylinder release moves the wrong direction, will get you killed on the street.  Other than that GTG.

Owned one a few years back in great shape. original grips (that sucked). I had no complaints, accurate and a good shooter. Traded it when I moved away from magnums. enjoy!

You did well, they are great guns.  I'm starting to think they attract extra barrels, here's mine and an 8" that I'm contemplating putting on.

If I can ever find an action wrench for it used, or cheap I'll change barrels.

value will not be very high, $300 - 400 range. that being said you have a great
carry / hunting / vehicle / night stand gun. don't get crazy with loads ie; no buffalo
bore or ect. stay with standard pressure .357 or .38+p an it will love you for a long
time.

Very strong action, plenty strong for anything short of stupid. One of the strongest revolvers in it's size range.

I sold a really nice one many years ago and spent a long time finding another one in decent shape.

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I grew up on Colts -- the Smith is backwards .    But really? Getting killed on the street?     Maybe in Serpico's day this would have been a valid discussion

Thanks everybody! I'm very happy with the gun.

So Buffalo Bore type ammo would be a no-go in one of these?

Im thinking of trying some cold blue on the barrel to see if i can cover up where its worn. figure i cant make it look much worse than it already does.

The action is as strong as an N frame 'Smith.  I dont see why not.   Unless you have deep pockets, you won't likely be shooting many of them ---- but for periodic hikes in bear or big pig country, why not.    If they advertise the ammo as "Ruger only" or something, then don't --   Also don't if there is excessive flame cutting on the top strap, but barring those 2 issues, it should be ready

      Typical usage in these guns is usually 80%. 38 spl to 20% 357,    So shooting a few hot loads to dial in POI shouldnt be a problem either

I'm on my Ipad now but if i can remember when i get to my computer, i'll post up a pic of my Colt Lawman (a fixed sight Trooper) that i had parkerized 17 years ago.  That or something similar might be a finish you would consider to keep it looking uniform and protected---- it was inexpensive and made the gun resemble a modern day Colt Commando or something


Edit: just looked at pics of your gun and the top strap looks intact, as well, i visited the Buff Bore website - they advise their loads are safe to use in any steel frame revolver --- since yours is stronger than most, it would seem like a good match.  

A lot more people than just little old me think Colt's cylinder release is backwards.  Cylinder spins the wrong way too...  Try to do a fast reload with a Colt and then the same thing with a S&W.  The forward motion of the S&W cylinder release is far more intuitive and easy to do quickly the the ass-backward Colt.  There is a reason S&W is still making double action revolvers and Colt  is not.  

I know it's not probably a big problem, but I could see how one could accidentally engage the cylinder latch on a Smith.   The Colt, not gonna happen.  I use my left hand to do the latch on the Colt.  Since when I reload I use the technique that uses your shooting hand for loading and hold the gun with your support hand.  When I get my smith, I'll still use me my left hand to do the latch.  I don't think there is a right or wrong here.  Yeah, the smith is a bit faster.  But hopefully you're joking about getting killed.  Because I'm thinking that would be an exaggeration.  Colt's have been used in Military and Police settings along with their Smith rivals.  

The Smiths seem like one handed reloads would be easier to do though.

Mostly joking about the "Getting killed on the street." comment.  That was mostly to make fun of those that take all that tactical/self-defense BS way to serious.  I have nothing serious against Colt revolvers.  My uncle has both a Colt Python and Anaconda and I have shot them often enough.  That said nearly all of my revolver are S&W.  For USPSA/IDPA revolver competition (Especially the USPSA) S&W is the best choice.  The cylinder release become critical when your reloads are part of your score.

None-the-less I would have drop $400 on the OP gun, especially with the extra 6" barrel.  A 6 inch 357 mag would make a nice hunting revolver.

Value depends entirely on the actual condition.  Worn bluing reduces the value.

The only "watch out" is to not dry fire without snap caps.
If the firing pin should break it REQUIRES a trip back to Colt for replacement.  Replacement needs a special press device with contoured press punches and support dies.
Trying to drive the firing pin and bushing out and back in will usually damage or even ruin the frame.

The Trooper Mark III was the first of Colt's new transfer bar safety-ignition revolvers.  It was specifically designed for unlimited use with full charge Magnum ammo.
Master gunsmith Jerry Kuhnhausen considered the later Colt's like the Mark III and King Cobra to be the strongest medium framed DA revolvers ever made, including the S&W 686 and the Ruger GP-100.

Colt actually designed the worlds first DA swing out cylinder revolver in 1889 as the New Navy.
In those days pistol shooting was taught in the old formal dueling stance with the gun held at arms length with the thumb resting on the frame.
By making the cylinder latch a pull type, this gave the shooter a convenient thumb rest, which is why most Colt's had checkered cylinder releases up until WWII.

In addition, with the thumb resting on the latch, there was no way the cylinder could accidentally open under recoil.
S&W went with a push type latch for, among other reasons, to get past Colt's patents AND to make their first DA swing out revolvers different from Colt.

mcb, I thought you might be joking but I wasn't astute enough to pick up on the sarcasm.  

I just opened up my American Rifleman and the last page talks about some of the stuff DFariswheel just said.  A little blurb on an a police positive and some history.  Not about the latch though.  


I was thinking maybe the OP should check the timing.  Since the Colts seem a little more prone to be out of time  ???????  But DFariswheel is the expert on that whole deal.  My DS is going back to Colt soon as I'm getting a replacement for carrying so I can have something while it's gone.  It's depressing that it was out of time to begin with though.   Would it be a good idea to ask them to lighten the trigger pull a tad or slick it up?  If it wasn't a horribly expensive endeavor?  I just know MOST Smith's I've tried out have a smoother, lighter trigger pull than my DS.  

If one wanted to learn a lot more about revolvers and their operation, is that Kuhnhausen book a good one to have?  

OP - pic of my MK 3 with a parke'd finish   ---   i love it and was a great way to bring  a little pride back to a neglected Colt --- but then again, this was long before a pristine Colt Mk 3 was a 750 - 1000 $ machine ---

I have had mine for 32 years I just figured that out.  Great shooter. My brother bought mine new and I traded him for it. Mine is pristine with original grips in the safe and hogues on it. I never had the box but oh well I think I have $300 in it. Mine is the six inch barrel.

Congrats OP.

Well said and the big thing to watch out for on these Colts:

"The only "watch out" is to not dry fire without snap caps.
If the firing pin should break it REQUIRES a trip back to Colt for replacement. Replacement needs a special press device with contoured press punches and support dies.
Trying to drive the firing pin and bushing out and back in will usually damage or even ruin the frame."

Thanks for the reminder to check timing I hadn't thought about that. I had to google how to do it and all 6 cylinders passed on how i found to do it.

Woooohooooo!  Ready for combat.