Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login
Site Notices
9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 7/22/2003 5:55:34 AM EDT
I bought a Para-Ordnance 16-40 Stainless Steel NIB in December 02. This firearm has only been shot at indoor ranges, gets cleaned after every use and is stored in a gun case. Went to look at it last night to give it a once over for a competition on Wednesday and noticed surface rust starting to appear on the frame and slide, what’s interesting on the slide though is their was no rust where the sides are ground.

I used #0000 super fine steel wool and gun oil to remove the rust so it looks new again, but you can still see some mild pitting.

I have a stainless Ruger Mark II, which I have had for three years, which is stored in an identical case and is stored in the same location and it still looks brand new.

The only conclusion I can come to is that a low grade stainless was used to make the firearm.

Has anyone experienced this problem or know of anyone. I’ am going to call the manufacturer but was hoping to get more information first.

Thanks.
Link Posted: 7/22/2003 6:01:04 AM EDT
I have not dealt with the stainless paras but I have played with a lot of stainless steel knives. Here is what I have learned. There is no such thing as rust proof steel. They all will rust sooner or latter.
What kind of case are you using? Most cases will keep moister in and next to the gun. This of course is a bad thing.

If you want real corrosion resistance get your gun hard chromed. I live very close to the bay so rust is a constant problem.
So keep them out of the cases keep them clean and keep them oiled.
NoKarma
Link Posted: 7/22/2003 6:11:37 AM EDT
Stainless is exactly as the name implies.
It stains (rusts) less than normal steel.
I never store firearms in gun cases.
One thing that I do if I am going to have the firearm in the case for a few days traveling, I spray the foam with silicone before placing the firearm in it.

I had a brand new Remington Sendaro rust from the oil being pulled from the barrel while in the case.

Another thing you could do is buy one of those silicone socks to put it in while in storage.
Link Posted: 7/22/2003 6:22:03 AM EDT
Good advice so far...

If you have a hard case with that egg crate foam, that stuff will keep moisture in itself, thus keeping moisture next to your gun. Get some little dessicant packs if you have to keep your guns in those cases.

Link Posted: 7/22/2003 4:11:14 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/22/2003 4:17:28 PM EDT by anothergene]
As stated by 9supercomp, use the open cell foam to your advantage, spray it with the thicker industrial silicone, not the evaporating shoe waterproofing type though.
No eating potato chips just before putting away a weapon.
Not much more than a guess, a quality gun stainless steel will rust faster due to the higher carbon content needed for strength...a Ruger MKII can safely contain less as it's only a .22.
I treat any SS gun like its blue counterpart, but with the knowledge I can glass bead, sand blast, polish (like mine is) or give it a brushed finish it anytime I find too many blemishes.
My other earlier MKII is in fact hard chromed...it was done before Ruger came out with the SS version.
My 645 did show some freckles on top of the slide, left uncleaned for 2 or 3 days after a sweaty outdoor shoot...big mistake!
But had it been a blue one, I think the results would be even worse.
Link Posted: 7/22/2003 4:51:14 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/22/2003 4:53:29 PM EDT by Slacker]
I use a silicone cloth on my firearms that are not parkerized. Wipe down all surfaces well and store in the safe, not in a case. I've only had one rust so far, and it had something to do with potatoe chips...salt and vinegar to be exact.
Birchwood Casey also makes "wipes" that are supposed to make steel very rust resistant.

FWIW, I had a Para P-10 in stainless. I carried it daily in Georgia in a IWB holster. Despite my best efforts to keep it oiled, it rusted anyway. My solution was to buy a Glock. Problem solved. Why can't other gun companies use tennifer???
Link Posted: 7/23/2003 4:59:46 AM EDT
Thanks for all the input.

What would be the advantage of spraying the
foam with silicone rather than gun oil?

How thick is the hard chrome plating?
Could it not cause interference between the frame and the slide?

Thanks.
Link Posted: 7/23/2003 5:40:05 AM EDT
The reason I use silicone is that i have an endless supply of it from a friend.
As for the hard chroming, I had my Para done.
It is a very thin layer and they refit the slide to the frame. It actually tightened up the fit. 5,000 rounds later and it is still tight.
Link Posted: 7/23/2003 7:45:35 AM EDT
Have it BearCoated www.bearcoat.com
It eliminates rust & cxorrosion, it self lubricating which eliminated oil , which traps and holds unburnt gunpowder and dirt.
I has my stainless P-14 limited done, runs better than ever !
Link Posted: 7/23/2003 9:55:39 AM EDT
I learned this the hardway too on a very pretty deer rifle. Never store any gun in a zippered type case. They all hold moisture. As far as spraying it first with silicone, that is no guarantee you are getting the moisture out of it before you seal it back up.

The cheap / safe alternative is gun socks, then in the safe. If you don't have a safe, you have to find a place where temperatures do not vary a lot (not in the basement or attic) to avoid condensation. Whereever you choose outside a safe, keep in mind that they will gather dust.
Top Top