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9/19/2017 7:27:10 PM
Posted: 3/16/2006 7:10:27 PM EDT
I'm going to be swapping out the trigger and hammer spring (mainspring) on my 4046 (DAO) to get that killer pull down to a more manageable number yet still make primers go off...

...so, does anyone know/have a link to the frame disassembly steps for Gen 3 Smith? I suppose I could figure it out, but any help would be greatly appreciated!!

Yes, voids my warranty, I know... thanks again.
Link Posted: 3/17/2006 6:55:52 AM EDT
The hammer spring is easy, just drift out the pin that holds the grips on. Did that on my 5946. I did not attempt the trigger spring. Seen the instructions, don't recall the exact steps. But it seemed like more work than I wanted to tackle.

Link Posted: 3/17/2006 10:59:32 AM EDT
Barnes and Noble sells a book called "The Gun Digest Book of Firearms Assembly/Disassembly". It's actually a series of books, and one is about centerfire auto pistols. It has full instructions with pictures.
Link Posted: 3/17/2006 2:16:45 PM EDT
The Frame
Begin your detailed disassembly by removal of the grips. The grips are held in by a pin which can be pushed out with a punch by hand. Once the grip pin is removed, work the grips off. Don’t pry w/a screwdriver. You finesse it off by pushing it towards the back and downwards.

Once the grip is removed, you can remove the hammer strut spring and the “thingy” that contains it.

Note that the hammer pivot pin is attached to a flat spring that the slide release plunger bears against. This flat spring also serves to hold the pivot pin for the sear. The next step is to use a punch and drive out the sear pivot pin from the right side of the frame to the left. After the sear pivot is removed, remove that flat spring that features the integral hammer pivot pin. The hammer and hammer strut may now be withdrawn from the top. The ejector and its spring may also be removed at this point from the left side of the frame. On the right side of the frame the disconnector and firing pin safety block lever and the associated coil spring may be removed.

Now, use a punch and drive out the trigger pivot pin. This may be done from either side of the frame. The trigger bar may be withdrawn from the rear of the frame – just on the 1911. Tilt the frame up and the trigger return spring and plunger comes out. Now, remove the trigger from the top of the frame. This is done by rotating it such that the top of it leans towards the front of the frame (Imagine if the pivot pin was still in place and you press the trigger. As the trigger goes rearward, the top swings towards the front.)

If you want to remove the mag catch, you will need to use a punch to depress the plunger that holds the mag catch captive on the left side of the frame. With the plunger depressed, you should be able to unscrew the mag catch button. After that, you can remove the plunger and its spring, along with the actual mag catch.

The Slide
Look at the right hand safety and you’ll see in the center a tiny hole. Insert a punch and depress the plunger. While the plunger is depressed, push the safety forward towards the muzzle. Withdraw the plunger and slide the right hand side of the safety off. *Note that on my 4566 the right side lever can only be removed with the safety in the downwards (on safe) position.

Now, flip the slide upside down. You’ll see two plungers. The one on the right hand side (muzzle away) needs to be depressed. While it’s depressed, push in on the firing pin to relieve pressure on the safety barrel. This allows you to slide the left hand side of the safety out of the left side of the gun.

Pushing down on the same plunger allows you to remove the firing pin and the firing pin spring. You should have a disassembly block (2X4 with a ¾” hole drilled into it.) Locate the extractor pin and place the slide such that the extractor pin is directly over the hole in the block. Punch out the pin from the bottom of the slide. You can withdraw the extractor and extractor spring. This completes the disassembly of the slide. You don’t want to remove the other two plungers because to do so requires removal of the rear sight (and resighting the gun afterwards.)

Insert the firing pin spring and firing pin into the firing pin channel. You need to depress the firing pin plunger to do so. When properly installed, the firing pin should clear the tunnel where the safety shaft is. Next, depress the firing pin to insert the safety. You have to finesse it in. The safety will come to a rest and the plunger on the safety has to be depressed before you can push it all the way in. Push on the firing pin safety plunger so as to release the firing pin from its forward position. It should “disappear” from the firing pin hole in the breech face. Now, insert the right hand safety. Push it until it comes to a stop against the plunger. Depress the plunger and it should slip right in. This completes the reassembly of the slide.

Turning to the frame, insert the trigger first from the top of the frame. Then insert the trigger spring and plunger into the trigger spring and plunger channel of the frame. Now, insert the trigger bar. Look at the parts diagram to make sure you don’t put it in upside down. The trigger bar helps to position the trigger spring and plunger. Insert the trigger pivot pin to hold these in place.

Install the magazine safety plunger spring and then the magazine safety and the other flat bar (sear release lever.) The dark metal one goes to the right. Insert the disconnector. The “J” faces towards the rear. Make sure the “tail” of the disconnector is under the little finger on the trigger bar – this is how the disconnector pushes the trigger bar down, disconnecting it from the sear. *Note that this can be a pain in the butt to get right. Now insert the hammer. Put the ejector and spring in and secure them with the hammer pivot pin. Insert the sear. The “legs” go up since they allow the clearance for the disconnector. Now depress the trigger such that it relieves the pressure on the sear. This allows you to maneuver the sear into place such that the sear pivot pin can be inserted into the frame from the right side. Push the hammer pivot pin plate down and hold in place. A light rap with a brass mallet and the sear pivot pin should “snap” into place and be held securely by the hammer pivot pin plate. Test the action. Insert hammer strut spring and cone. Push grip onto frame and then push grip pin back in.

Mag catch reassembly is the opposite of removal.

A function check should always be done on every gun after it is disassembled and reassembled.
Link Posted: 3/17/2006 4:27:36 PM EDT
The best way is as follows, IMO.

1) Take the gun to the gunsmith.

2) Wait until it's done.

3) Pay for the work, take it home & shoot it.

At least, that's what *I* would do.
Link Posted: 3/17/2006 4:35:54 PM EDT
I got one of those AGI DVDs for it. Pretty hairy if you don't know what you're doing.
Link Posted: 3/17/2006 9:09:27 PM EDT
Following the instructions in the book I mentioned above, I've disassembled/assembled several 3rd Generation S&W autos with no problems.
Link Posted: 3/19/2006 9:05:58 AM EDT
Thanks Pokey and Hawg!
I've done trigger work (successfully, thank you) on my Remington Model 7, Smith 638 .38, and a full action change (DA to LEM) on my HK Compact 9mm, so I think I'm gonna follow what's above and give it a go! If it ain't broke, I still tinker anyway, and as long as you don't force things and PAY DELIBERATE ATTENTION to detail, it's really not difficult to do most of the work.

Thanks all!
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