OK,
It's like CHRISTmas in August. I dropped by my FFL yesterday to pick up my 610. A stainless steel "N" frame 6-shot revolver with a 6.5" barrel and a none fluted cylinder chambered in 10mm Auto. Very much like my 686+.
Observation #1. It's big, and heavy. (duh)
#2. It has a hair trigger, way lighter than the factory trigger on the 686.
#3. The hammer spring is lighter, it takes less effort to cock it "single action" than the 686.
4. The 10mm loads seem to kick more than my hot 357's.
Here's the comparison:
.357, 10.7 grains of BLUE DOT pushing a 158 grain Plated Hollow Point
10mm, 10.4 grains of BLUE DOT pushing a 180 grain Plated Hollow Point
So my 10mm load has 14% more bullet and 3% less powder, yet it seems to have a sharper recoil despite the slightly heavier gun.
#5. It's a tack driver. Once I got the sights zeroed it was pretty wicked. No surprise there.
#6. I knew the purpose of a rimmed case, used to determine headspace. I now see why it's so important. I didn't have any moonclips and I had a lot of light primer strikes on my shots, maybe 25% not going off. Turns out the 10mm cases were too short for the cylinders, and I found that some cylinders are shallower than others. There was one cylinder that would set off round when they refused to fire in any others. NOTE TO SELF: Get some damn moonclips. This will let me shoot 40 S&W too.
#7. I'd love to find someone to ream my cylinder out to hold
10mm Magnum Cartridges.
#8. Get some Tritium sights
686+ on top, 610 on the bottom.