Can the trigger or an aftermarket trigger be worked on to the 1lb area?

Thanks for your time.

2.5 is usually as low as you would won't to go and that is with an aftermarket. The stock trigger components aren't verygood or worth the trouble if you are going to spend $ on a trigger job.  Clark triggers are ok but they are not a " Drop In Item".

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Quoted: 2.5 is usually as low as you would won't to go and that is with an aftermarket. The stock trigger components aren't verygood or worth the trouble if you are going to spend $ on a trigger job.  Clark triggers are ok but they are not a " Drop In Item".

Have you ever ectually worked on a Mark II trigger or seen a Mark II after Clark has worked over the trigger? There's nothing wrong with the factory trigger components. The Clark trigger is nothing more than a longer version of the Ruger factory item.

When Clark installs one of their triggers, they do more than just install it. A complete trigger job is performed; oversize pins, shims, an external pretravel stop, and an overtravel stop are installed. The sear and hammer surfaces are polished and stoned to improve the engagement surfaces.

Quoted: Quoted: 2.5 is usually as low as you would won't to go and that is with an aftermarket. The stock trigger components aren't verygood or worth the trouble if you are going to spend $ on a trigger job.  Clark triggers are ok but they are not a " Drop In Item".

Have you ever ectually worked on a Mark II trigger or seen a Mark II after Clark has worked over the trigger? There's nothing wrong with the factory trigger components. The Clark trigger is nothing more than a longer version of the Ruger factory item. Yes I have, I was  mainly refering to the trigger itself. You can buy Clark triggers .

When Clark installs one of their triggers, they do more than just install it. A complete trigger job is performed; oversize pins, shims, an external pretravel stop, and an overtravel stop are installed. The sear and hammer surfaces are polished and stoned to improve the engagement surfaces. Hence " Not just a drop in item " for the average home GS.  

Quoted: Yes I have, I was  mainly refering to the trigger itself. You can buy Clark triggers .

And?

Quoted: Hence " Not just a drop in item " for the average home GS.

Absolutely incorrect. The trigger itself is a straight-up drop-in item. Apparently you missed or didn't know that. Clark's trigger job involves more than just installing another trigger, the biggest portion of the job being the re-machining of the sear and hammer engagement surfaces.

So I guess your answer to my question about having ever ACTUALLY WORKED ON a Mark II trigger would be NO.

Is there a good online supplier for these Clark triggers?

Quoted: Is there a good online supplier for these Clark triggers?

Brownell's and Clark Custom Guns. However, unless you plan on performing the machine work described, installation is rather pointless.

So I guess your answer to my question about having ever ACTUALLY WORKED ON a Mark II trigger would be NO.

I guess you can't read or comprehend hell you even say it isn't a drop in trigger ! Geez get a life !!!

Quoted: I guess you can't read or comprehend hell you even say it isn't a drop in trigger ! Geez get a life !!!

Perhaps you should consider your own reading comprehension or lack thereof prior to making any further replies. If necessary, please get an adult to read this thread to you.

I have not posted, inferred, or implied that a Clark Mark II trigger required fitting. It is and has always been a drop-in item. Period.

A Clark trigger and a trigger job by Clark are two different things. The Clark trigger by itself offers very little improvement on the trigger pull of a Mark II. A trigger job by Clark is a package of machine services, namely the re-machining of the hammer and sear surfaces for a different geometry. Perhaps you should also seek to improve or increase your apparently limited knowledge of gunsmithing in addition to your rather poor reading skills.

Replies like yours are precisely why the internet will never have the measure of credibility it deserves.

Since I have TWO Rugers with Clark triggers in them I have to agree with Tangeant.  Clark triggers can be purchased from Brownell's(That is where the first one came from) and from Gil Hebard(#2).
Clark triggers are cast steel and machined, Ruger triggers are pot metal and do not have a set screw. If you swap your Ruger trigger for a Clark trigger, you get a shitty Ruger trigger pull with over travel adjustment and a little less trigger slop.

The Clark trigger is wider and normally will not fit in the trigger slot without a little work, the pin holes are always tight and need a little fitting as well.  It needs to be installed in conjunction with a trigger job to get a nice 2 pound trigger.(NRA legal competition weight is 2 pounds).  One pound is kind of light, most guys will do that for you, but it can be unsafe. I paid $15 for the trigger and $60 for the work last fall.

Clark does not have to personally install a trigger to call it a "Clark trigger".  He has been dead for a while now.  Any decent gunsmith should be able to do a first class job.  Ruger does not do factory service on guns with any sort of modification, including trigger jobs.  They will not service your gun after you do this.  

Quoted: Since I have TWO Rugers with Clark triggers in them

Are we having a dick-swinging contest? Because if we are, I thought I'd let you know that I have FOUR MARK IIs WITH CLARK TRIGGERS. Is that worth anything? Do I get points for that? Two are suppressed as well.

Quoted: Clark triggers are cast steel and machined, Ruger triggers are pot metal and do not have a set screw. If you swap your Ruger trigger for a Clark trigger, you get a shitty Ruger trigger pull with over travel adjustment and a little less trigger slop.

Incorrect. Ruger triggers do in fact have a pre-travel screw and Clark triggers do not always come with an overtravel screw installed. The Clark item is, more or less, a longer version of the Ruger factory trigger.

Quoted: The Clark trigger is wider and normally will not fit in the trigger slot without a little work, the pin holes are always tight and need a little fitting as well.

This is incorrect as well. The trigger will drop right in. I've done it dozens of times on various Ruger Mark IIs. Clark tightens up the fit with the addition of shims, bushings, and oversize pins.

Quoted: Clark does not have to personally install a trigger to call it a "Clark trigger".  He has been dead for a while now.  Any decent gunsmith should be able to do a first class job.

No shit. Jim Senior had a team of gunsmiths working for him for several years prior to his death performing Ruger work, building bullseye guns, etc. Did you not know that? You do realize when people mention "Clark" they are referring to CLARK CUSTOM GUNS? Hence my previous mentioning of "Clark installing one of THEIR triggers." www.clarkcustomguns.com

Quoted: Ruger does not do factory service on guns with any sort of modification, including trigger jobs. They will not service your gun after you do this.

Care to put a little money on this, sport? I just love when someone steps right in it. Like you. I've talked with the manager of Ruger's Prescott, Arizona facility many, many times about working on modified guns, including suppressed Mark IIs. They have absolutely no problem servicing any legally-owned firearm and will extend factory warranty coverage to all but the modified parts. In fact, they'll -- GASP -- service the modified portions at cost to the customer. Call 1-800-424-1886 and ask. Be sure to post back when you do.

Any more BULLSHIT you'd like to post?

Wow, I did not realize you were here when I had my trigger jobs done or when I bought a half a dozen Clark triggers last year and gave them to my gunsmith.  I was there when we started fiddling with my Ruger and none of the triggers was "drop-in".  Just replacing the trigger did not change a lot either.

I have always had outstanding service from Ruger. One of the local guys sent a rifle with a Timney trigger back and got it returned with a note saying they did not work on "modified guns".  Maybe you already knew about this as well, since you appear you know everything.

You probably bought the supressed gun so that the report would not distract you from constantly offering your overbearing opinion to all within earshot.

Since you appear to read rather well, here is the trigger information from Clark's website,

Clark/Ruger Match Steel Trigger (Part 510) When used in conjunction with a trigger job, this trigger allows for a sharper, crisper pull. It removes the trigger sideplay that exists with a factory trigger. It can be fitted to Mk I, Mk II, or 22/45 Ruger .22 semi-auto pistols. The trigger features a micro-adjustable overtravel stop and a wide arc so the trigger finger will not drag on the trigger guard. A sharp serrated face with a wide, flat surface allows for finer finger pressure control. Some fitting is required.

I am sure you think they got it wrong as well, you can contact them at; www.clarkcustomguns.com/22sdtls.htm#rugersteel   I am sure they will defer to your opinion.

Quoted: Wow, I did not realize you were here when I had my trigger jobs done or when I bought a half a dozen Clark triggers last year and gave them to my gunsmith. I was there when we started fiddling with my Ruger and none of the triggers was "drop-in".

Wow, I didn't realize you were there when I was doing the same to my guns. Nor did I realize that you had a half-a-dozen Mark IIs when you already stated that you "have TWO Rugers with Clark triggers in them." Do you have problems with counting or a fear of numbers?

Quoted: Just replacing the trigger did not change a lot either.

This was already stated. Possibly you suffer from selective reading.

Quoted: I have always had outstanding service from Ruger. One of the local guys sent a rifle with a Timney trigger back and got it returned with a note saying they did not work on "modified guns".

Call the number at the Arizona facility that I posted and post back what they say. In fact, since you mentioned the Model 77, call the New Hampshire facility at 603-865-2442. You appear to be AFRAID of doing so. I would take THEIR word over that of a "local guy." Is that one of those "friend of a friend, whose neighbor heard this" type things? Sure sounds like it. I already offered to put some money on this. If you're so sure of yourself, take the bet.

Quoted: Since you appear to read rather well, here is the trigger information from Clark's website, Clark/Ruger Match Steel Trigger (Part 510) When used in conjunction with a trigger job, this trigger allows for a sharper, crisper pull. It removes the trigger sideplay that exists with a factory trigger. It can be fitted to Mk I, Mk II, or 22/45 Ruger .22 semi-auto pistols. The trigger features a micro-adjustable overtravel stop and a wide arc so the trigger finger will not drag on the trigger guard. A sharp serrated face with a wide, flat surface allows for finer finger pressure control. Some fitting is required.

The "fitting" that they describe is the installation of an external pre-travel stop, which involves drilling and tapping of the grip frame and the machining and installation of pins and bushings to remove play in the trigger. If a pre-travel stop isn't installed, the extra length of the Clark trigger allows it to hit the forward inner surface of the trigger guard. Of course I'm speaking of the FOUR MARK IIs I ALREADY OWN WITH CLARK TRIGGERS and of the conversations I've had with Renee Tyson and Tommy Bison. Don't be shy, call them and ask. They're not worried about some internet geek like you calling.

You are quite the simpleton, thats ok it happens to people who are dropped on their heads as children.

Quoted: Wow, I did not realize you were here when I had my trigger jobs done or when I bought a half a dozen Clark triggers last year and gave them to my gunsmith. I was there when we started fiddling with my Ruger and none of the triggers was "drop-in". -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Wow, I didn't realize you were there when I was doing the same to my guns. Nor did I realize that you had a half-a-dozen Mark IIs when you already stated that you "have TWO Rugers with Clark triggers in them." Do you have problems with counting or a fear of numbers

In other places besides your head, triggers are called,"parts", they are not complete guns. It is  possible to buy more parts than you need because somebody may want to use the parts in someone elses gun.    Imagine how nice it would be here today if your dad had just one more rubber on that Saturday night oh so long ago.


They put it in writing, hence the word, "NOTE".  My guns work fine. Why would calling Ruger help me? Should I tell them "loopy Lester from Arfcom" sent me???  

The "fitting" that they describe is the installation of an external pre-travel stop, which involves drilling and tapping of the grip frame and the machining and installation of pins and bushings to remove play in the trigger. If a pre-travel stop isn't installed, the extra length of the Clark trigger allows it to hit the forward inner surface of the trigger guard. Of course I'm speaking of the FOUR MARK IIs I ALREADY OWN WITH CLARK TRIGGERS and of the conversations I've had with Renee Tyson and Tommy Bison. Don't be shy, call them and ask. They're not worried about some internet geek like you calling.

Since you are describing gunsmith work required to get a Clark Trigger to fit a Ruger and work properly, it appears that it is not "drop in". Apparently YOUR gunsmith and his sister, myself and Tangeant and the makers of the "Clark trigger" all agree that some work is required to make the trigger fit and a trigger job is required to make the end result a light crisp pull.

You have spent nearly three weeks arguing that no gunsmith work is required and you had to have a GUNSMITH put your triggers in your guns for you.  Please tell us why the trigger will fit in MrMaeda's gun without any fitting or tuning of any kind?  As mentioned in this thread, it did not fit in four of yours, two of mine and one of Tangeants without some tuning and when the manufactors of the part say it will not "drop in".

Oh, and if MrMaeda is still here someplace, I think I have one new in the bag, Clark Trigger in my parts box.  I think it was 15 bucks, email me if you want it.  Just don't be upset when it does not "drop in" and magically produce a 1 pound trigger pull.  Contact Lester for the "magic" trigger.  

Quoted: You are quite the simpleton, thats ok it happens to people who are dropped on their heads as children. Quoted: Wow, I did not realize you were here when I had my trigger jobs done or when I bought a half a dozen Clark triggers last year and gave them to my gunsmith. I was there when we started fiddling with my Ruger and none of the triggers was "drop-in". -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Wow, I didn't realize you were there when I was doing the same to my guns. Nor did I realize that you had a half-a-dozen Mark IIs when you already stated that you "have TWO Rugers with Clark triggers in them." Do you have problems with counting or a fear of numbers In other places besides your head, triggers are called,"parts", they are not complete guns. It is  possible to buy more parts than you need because somebody may want to use the parts in someone elses gun.    Imagine how nice it would be here today if your dad had just one more rubber on that Saturday night oh so long ago.

Perhaps you and tangeant both attended the same school, because neither one of you seem to be able to read. One would assume that if you bought half-a-dozen triggers, then you had a half-a-dozen guns in which you intended them to be installed. Would they not? A simple yes or no answer will suffice.

Quoted: They put it in writing, hence the word, "NOTE".  My guns work fine. Why would calling Ruger help me? Should I tell them "loopy Lester from Arfcom" sent me???

And you've seen this "note?" I doubt it. If you're sure of it, pick up the telephone and take the bet. Don't puss out because your ego can't take it.

Quoted: The "fitting" that they describe is the installation of an external pre-travel stop, which involves drilling and tapping of the grip frame and the machining and installation of pins and bushings to remove play in the trigger. If a pre-travel stop isn't installed, the extra length of the Clark trigger allows it to hit the forward inner surface of the trigger guard. Of course I'm speaking of the FOUR MARK IIs I ALREADY OWN WITH CLARK TRIGGERS and of the conversations I've had with Renee Tyson and Tommy Bison. Don't be shy, call them and ask. They're not worried about some internet geek like you calling. Since you are describing gunsmith work required to get a Clark Trigger to fit a Ruger and work properly, it appears that it is not "drop in". Apparently YOUR gunsmith and his sister, myself and Tangeant and the makers of the "Clark trigger" all agree that some work is required to make the trigger fit and a trigger job is required to make the end result a light crisp pull. You have spent nearly three weeks arguing that no gunsmith work is required and you had to have a GUNSMITH put your triggers in your guns for you.  Please tell us why the trigger will fit in MrMaeda's gun without any fitting or tuning of any kind?  As mentioned in this thread, it did not fit in four of yours, two of mine and one of Tangeants without some tuning and when the manufactors of the part say it will not "drop in".

I have never posted that there was any work to get a Clark trigger to "work" properly. That is something that you invented in your empty little head.

Quoted: Oh, and if MrMaeda is still here someplace, I think I have one new in the bag, Clark Trigger in my parts box.  I think it was 15 bucks, email me if you want it.  Just don't be upset when it does not "drop in" and magically produce a 1 pound trigger pull.  Contact Lester for the "magic" trigger.

It will fit and I'll put up some money to say that it will just as I'm willing to put up some money on what Ruger's service department will say should you ever get the courage to actually talk to them.

This thread makes me want to buy another Model 41 S&W.






No offense Tangeant

Quoted: This thread makes me want to buy another Model 41 S&W. No offense Tangeant

In the end, I don't think that any of them really disagree with the other, but they have all just pissed each other off so much that they refuse to listen.  

Sad thread for the tech forums..

SBG

Quoted: Quoted: This thread makes me want to buy another Model 41 S&W. No offense Tangeant In the end, I don't think that any of them really disagree with the other, but they have all just pissed each other off so much that they refuse to listen.   Sad thread for the tech forums.. SBG

I disagree with the assertion that a Clark trigger requires fitting. Anyone who believes that is completely uninformed with regards to the function of a trigger and fire control components in a Ruger Mark II. The trigger is nothing more than an end link in a series of linkages to the sear. The trigger pull in a Mark II is determined primarily by the hammer and sear engagement surfaces.

Simply installing a Clark trigger doesn't do squat for a Mark II. It'll drop right in, but you'll still have the side-to-side slop present; shimming and installing oversize pins removes most of that.

The factory TARGET versions of the Mark II trigger have an internal pre-travel screw (the standard versions just have extra slop). It's adjusted from the factory, but if you ever perform or have performed a trigger job, you may want to change the adjustment. Performing "try" fitting of the pre-travel adjustment is just a pain in the ass on the factory trigger; the gun and the trigger have to be disassembled, adjusted, reassembled, tried, repeated as necessary, etc. By installing the pre-travel screw in an external position life becomes much easier. The whole idea of installing any aftermarket trigger is to remove the slop, though I have seen gunsmiths install them without adding a pre-travel stop.

The Clark triggers are available with and without overtravel stops. Adding one isn't much of an issue to the Ruger factory unit, nor is adding one to a Clark unit that didn't originally have it.

There seem to be some popular misconceptions about Ruger's service policies -- i.e., BULLSHIT -- that keep getting passed around and repeated as fact without ever verifying. I own a fairly large number of Ruger firearms, Red Labels, Model 77s, Number 1s, Mark IIs, an AC556, etc. I also talk to Ruger's service facilities fairly regularly for part orders, service advice, etc. I can assure you that they don't "void" warranties -- Ruger firearms don't have a warranty and they haven't supplied one in many years. Ruger will service firearms -- even modified firearms -- and assess any charges at their discretion. If you act like a horse's ass, I'd expect you'll receive the appropriate service in return from Ruger. If you're a nice guy -- like me for instance -- you'll get top-notch service and a fast turn around.

Quoted: Quoted: This thread makes me want to buy another Model 41 S&W. No offense Tangeant In the end, I don't think that any of them really disagree with the other, but they have all just pissed each other off so much that they refuse to listen.   Sad thread for the tech forums.. SBG

No offense taken

I guess we are all rguing over semantics !  " Clark triggers are ok but they are not a " Drop In Item" .

Anyone who has put in a Clark Trigger should know it isn't exactly a " Drop in Item " even though they say it is. Sometimes they do drop right in ( trigger fits in trigger cut out in lower and disconnector pin fits hole in trigger ) and sometimes they don't . On top of that you still need to do an actuall trigger job. I didn't feel it necessary to write a full page to answer the original question nor did I say anything in my orig post about a trigger job actually done By Clark which is a top notch Ruger T job .

Quoted: " Clark triggers are ok but they are not a " Drop In Item" .

That's just not true and it never has been.

Quoted: Anyone who has put in a Clark Trigger should know it isn't exactly a " Drop in Item " even though they say it is.

Anyone who has put in a Clark trigger knows that this is NOT true.