On the cylinder, plug the front and rear of the chambers with rubber plugs to prevent getting any blasting inside, and don't over do the front. Erosion of the sharp edges of the chamber should be prevented.
On most parts, a light blasting will have no adverse effects. It's only where you use more aggressive type beads, or higher pressures on the stream.
A light blast with ordinary beads will give a nice flat gray finish.
One "watch-out": DO NOT use a blaster that's been used to blast carbon steel on a stainless steel or aluminum.
The media will be saturated with carbon steel particles, and these particles will be embedded into stainless or aluminum.
Later, these carbon particles will rust, damaging the stainless or even the aluminum.
I've had people mystified as to how the Hell an aluminum gun part could rust. This after they used a machine shop or automotive shop blaster that was used for ordinary steel.
The WORST possible case is the auto shop blaster that's been used to blast rusty brakes and car parts.
Shops that do aluminum and stainless have blasters JUST for those materials, and another for carbon steel.