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Posted: 9/29/2005 3:13:13 PM EDT
[#1]
First completely disassemble the pistol. No you do not use silver solder or any other 'filler' type material. To do this properly you use wet or dry sandpaper in grits starting at 180, then 220, then 320, then 400, etc. You wrap the sandpaper around a flat metal or wood 'holder and scrub/sand merrily away, until it seems like you have done this forever and it will never end. Then you do some more in the finer grits. When you think it is done or where you want it to be then you can blue it. Cold blue usually does not work out very well so I strongly suggest that you get someone to hot blue it for you. Take care. Charles the Gunsmith.
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Posted: 9/29/2005 4:33:48 PM EDT
[#2]
as was said plus try duracoating. I have duracoated my 870, rossi877 and my win 94 with great results.
Its cheaper than have it reblued plus u can get just about any color u want. |
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Posted: 9/29/2005 4:36:26 PM EDT
[#3]
glass bead blast and Parkerize
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Posted: 9/29/2005 5:44:59 PM EDT
[#4]
This is probably the best option. Either parkerize it or another similar finish. Bluing will show the pits. Bead blasting will remove the crap from in the pits that sanding alone will not touch. Jim |
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Posted: 9/29/2005 6:20:20 PM EDT
[#5]
Actually the purpose of the sanding is to remove the pits. If properly done it will look very nice when completed. Charles the Gunsmith.
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Posted: 9/29/2005 6:51:00 PM EDT
[#6]
Sorry. His pitting may not be as bad as I think of when I think pitting. I collect and "restore" old milsurp weapons. Some have really bad pitting under the woodline. Sanding to the bottom of the pits would remove too much metal.
Dad and I restored a Ruger MkII .22 stainless pistol. It was badly scratched and bead blasting left a nice matte, non glare finish. If his pitting is as bad as it sounds he needs to get the rust out that must be in there. How about naval jelly? I know it removes bluing, but doesn't it remove rust too? I haven't used it and don't remember. Jim |
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Posted: 9/29/2005 11:11:08 PM EDT
[#7]
depends on the depth of the pits, scab rust can be removed with sanding but anything deeper than that and you lose the markings on the slide and it really takes a practiced hand to keep from rolling the edges of the slide flats.
naval jelly does remove rust but it will take repeated applications and attention to detail to get the rust out of small pits. since you'll also be removing the finish with the naval jelly why not just bead blast and Parkerize? Parkerizing by it's nature is a rough finish (final finish dependant on surface prep of course) so it hides pitting well. |
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Posted: 9/30/2005 11:15:33 AM EDT
[#8]
Nothing to be sorry about PepperBelly. I was assuming that the client was approaching this as a restoration. I do a lot of restorations and they do take a lot of time to do well. If the pits are VERY deep I agree that beadblast and parkerize, and, then perhaps a hot blue over the parkerizing may be appropriate. Charles.
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Posted: 9/30/2005 11:50:57 AM EDT
[#9]
If you want to get rid of the pitting, assuming the pits are not too deep, draw filing is about the best way to go, followed by a refinish. One problem -- you may have to say goodbye to the rollmarks on the slide.
If you want to hide the pitting, sand or bead blasting followed by Parkerizing or a paint job will help make them less noticeable, and will stop further corrosion. They'll still be visible in the right light however. |
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Posted: 9/30/2005 2:43:29 PM EDT
[#10]
Builder, I haven't had to remove rust from many weapons, thank goodness, but on shallow pits and surface rust I use a technique I read about in one of the gun mags. #0000 steel wool and light oil removes the rust and leaves oil in the pits for protection. The steel wool gets into the shallow pits and removes surface rust without ruining the finish most of the time.
There are many ways to work on rust. Every 'smith has his best way, and then several other ways when that doesn't work. I like to har about every method I can and file it away for later when my way don't do it. Later, Jim |
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Posted: 9/30/2005 3:55:05 PM EDT
[#11]
done that myself several times, best on scale rust where there is no pitting just blisters. the 0000 doesn't hurt the finish (unless you go nuts with it) just dropped off a bag of it with instructions to a gal for her SKS.
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Posted: 9/30/2005 5:59:08 PM EDT
[#12]
Lauer also advertises a "filler" for this purpose to use under their finish. Haven't used it, but might be worth a try. |
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