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9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 9/29/2005 2:40:06 PM EDT
Hi All,
I have a little all steel Colt .380 that is badly pitted. I would like to try my hand at restoring it myself. Is there a guide out there anywhere that would tell me what to use? Do I use silver solder or something else to fill in the holes? What kind of finish can I use after I fill in the holes and smoothe it all out? Thanks in advance for your help...
Link Posted: 9/29/2005 3:13:13 PM EDT
First completely disassemble the pistol. No you do not use silver solder or any other 'filler' type material. To do this properly you use wet or dry sandpaper in grits starting at 180, then 220, then 320, then 400, etc. You wrap the sandpaper around a flat metal or wood 'holder and scrub/sand merrily away, until it seems like you have done this forever and it will never end. Then you do some more in the finer grits. When you think it is done or where you want it to be then you can blue it. Cold blue usually does not work out very well so I strongly suggest that you get someone to hot blue it for you. Take care. Charles the Gunsmith.
Link Posted: 9/29/2005 4:33:48 PM EDT
as was said plus try duracoating. I have duracoated my 870, rossi877 and my win 94 with great results.
Its cheaper than have it reblued plus u can get just about any color u want.
Link Posted: 9/29/2005 4:36:26 PM EDT
Link Posted: 9/29/2005 5:44:59 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Tweak:
glass bead blast and Parkerize

This is probably the best option. Either parkerize it or another similar finish. Bluing will show the pits. Bead blasting will remove the crap from in the pits that sanding alone will not touch.
Link Posted: 9/29/2005 6:20:20 PM EDT
Actually the purpose of the sanding is to remove the pits. If properly done it will look very nice when completed. Charles the Gunsmith.
Link Posted: 9/29/2005 6:51:00 PM EDT
Sorry. His pitting may not be as bad as I think of when I think pitting. I collect and "restore" old milsurp weapons. Some have really bad pitting under the woodline. Sanding to the bottom of the pits would remove too much metal.
Dad and I restored a Ruger MkII .22 stainless pistol. It was badly scratched and bead blasting left a nice matte, non glare finish.
If his pitting is as bad as it sounds he needs to get the rust out that must be in there. How about naval jelly? I know it removes bluing, but doesn't it remove rust too? I haven't used it and don't remember.
Link Posted: 9/29/2005 11:11:08 PM EDT
Link Posted: 9/30/2005 11:15:33 AM EDT
Nothing to be sorry about PepperBelly. I was assuming that the client was approaching this as a restoration. I do a lot of restorations and they do take a lot of time to do well. If the pits are VERY deep I agree that beadblast and parkerize, and, then perhaps a hot blue over the parkerizing may be appropriate. Charles.
Link Posted: 9/30/2005 11:50:57 AM EDT
If you want to get rid of the pitting, assuming the pits are not too deep, draw filing is about the best way to go, followed by a refinish. One problem -- you may have to say goodbye to the rollmarks on the slide.

If you want to hide the pitting, sand or bead blasting followed by Parkerizing or a paint job will help make them less noticeable, and will stop further corrosion. They'll still be visible in the right light however.
Link Posted: 9/30/2005 2:43:29 PM EDT
Builder, I haven't had to remove rust from many weapons, thank goodness, but on shallow pits and surface rust I use a technique I read about in one of the gun mags. #0000 steel wool and light oil removes the rust and leaves oil in the pits for protection. The steel wool gets into the shallow pits and removes surface rust without ruining the finish most of the time.
There are many ways to work on rust. Every 'smith has his best way, and then several other ways when that doesn't work. I like to har about every method I can and file it away for later when my way don't do it.
Link Posted: 9/30/2005 3:55:05 PM EDT
Link Posted: 9/30/2005 5:59:08 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Stang1911:
as was said plus try duracoating. I have duracoated my 870, rossi877 and my win 94 with great results.
Its cheaper than have it reblued plus u can get just about any color u want.

Lauer also advertises a "filler" for this purpose to use under their finish. Haven't used it, but might be worth a try.
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