There are two springs that work on that...the primary (believe it or not) is the
trigger hammer spring in the main spring housing, in the grip. When the slide moves back, that's the first thing it has to overcome; re-cocking the hammer. The recoil spring doesnt really come into play until the end of the cycle, when it's just about compressed and starts to push the slide forward.
So, you can do one of two things...optimally you would tune them together...
You can go to a lighter hammer spring as option number 1...pretty easy to do if you have three hands, or some kind of vise. Just compress the hammer strut plug, pop out the retaining pin, and SLOWLY let the cup come out. This thing is under a lot of tension, so if you don't push the cup down and slowly let it up, it WILL take your eye out and/or get lost
You can also check your main recoil spring...it should be a 16# spring. If it is and it's still too much, try a 14# spring...I would _not_, under any circumstances, go below a 12# spring. Colt Gold Cups come with them stock, and they're meant for light handloads purely for the racegun folks. Realistically you shouldn't need to go below a a 15# spring, really.
Failing that...stick with 124's
Edited cause I typed trigger when I meant hammer...