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1/22/2020 12:12:56 PM
Posted: 7/20/2008 3:34:17 PM EST
Fellas...While I am obviously not new to target sports or firearms in general (30 gun safe has reached its "capacity") What I will have tommorrow is my first revolver..Yeah..I know..I guess I was just to young of mind, or flat stupid all these years, but I never saw a need to own a revolver. Well..that has changed and I am head over heals for the cylinder now. Tommorrow I pick up a supposedly unfired new in box "old stock" pinned barrel model 37 airweight..yes picks will follow. I may have overpayed, but it was absoloutely beautiful 99.99% with only a microscopic cylinder line, and for my first snubbie, I didn't want anything with the "lock"..Ok so short story long..I have an ammo related question. I read that in no way should I be using +P loads thru this little fella, old model airweight and all. So my question is....is that to say I should not be feeding it +P at the range..because of excessive wear..or I should NEVER..EVER even fire 1 +P round thru it EVER. Biggest reason I ask, is because it WILL be carried, and I would like to throw 5 rounds of the best self defense ammo I can get in it (clearly)...and in every case, it looks like that is a +P load.
If the answer is NO NEVER..then might someone suggest a non +P load I can feel a bit more comfy with.
In addition, any other comments, on the pistol itself, ammo, and of course choice of grips, and leather would be aprish
Thanks guys
Link Posted: 7/20/2008 4:27:31 PM EST
I'm not trying to be a dick in asking this, but why pay a premium for a LNIB gun just to turn around and shoot/carry it(thus throwing away the extra $$$)?

Your best bet on finding out whether the gun will tolerate +P will be calling S&W. Give them the serial number + model of the gun.

If it will handle +P, my load of choice would be Remington 158 grain +P lead semi wadcutter hollowpoints.
Link Posted: 7/20/2008 4:41:22 PM EST
Most likely you can fire the +P loads but def. give S&W a call. They are very pleasent to contact and very helpful. You could ask the date of Manufacture at the same time too.
Link Posted: 7/20/2008 5:03:41 PM EST
[Last Edit: 7/20/2008 5:04:48 PM EST by car15man]

Originally Posted By machinisttx:
I'm not trying to be a dick in asking this, but why pay a premium for a LNIB gun just to turn around and shoot/carry it(thus throwing away the extra $$$)?


Well..just what I like I guess. I like to purchase new...when I can..and I assure you nothing in my collection stays new or unfired long. Everything from the lowliest Mosin to the Barrett M99 gets used, and shot. I am not the type (not now at least) to keep something new in box unfired in my safe. I guess I am unsure of how much a premium I payed also, and I am never ashamed to reveal how much I payed..all said and done I will have $400 in the 37..with original cardboard box, paperwork, warranty card, a little package with brush/tool?

Thanks for the info on the ammo ..prob call Smith on it
Link Posted: 7/20/2008 5:24:24 PM EST
According to S&W, ANY J-frame that is a "dash model", i.e. -1/-2/-3, etc. can safely shoot +P ammo.

If the model is not a "dash model", it probably will handle 1-2 cylinders per year of +P w/o issues. I certainly wouldn't shoot any more than that.

Hope this helps!
Link Posted: 7/20/2008 5:31:51 PM EST
Hey Bob
That does help, thanks friend.
This is definately a NO dash model. In addition, I just really want to know that I can load a cylinder full of good +p for the unfortunate..hopefully to never happen chance I may need it. I will make sure not to burn through them at the range



Originally Posted By BobCole:
According to S&W, ANY J-frame that is a "dash model", i.e. -1/-2/-3, etc. can safely shoot +P ammo.

If the model is not a "dash model", it probably will handle 1-2 cylinders per year of +P w/o issues. I certainly wouldn't shoot any more than that.

Hope this helps!
Link Posted: 7/20/2008 6:08:59 PM EST
I owned one of those many years ago, they are very nice small Revolvers. You probably won't want to fire any more +Ps thru it than you have to.
Link Posted: 7/21/2008 1:46:06 PM EST

Originally Posted By car15man:

Originally Posted By machinisttx:
I'm not trying to be a dick in asking this, but why pay a premium for a LNIB gun just to turn around and shoot/carry it(thus throwing away the extra $$$)?


Well..just what I like I guess. I like to purchase new...when I can..and I assure you nothing in my collection stays new or unfired long. Everything from the lowliest Mosin to the Barrett M99 gets used, and shot. I am not the type (not now at least) to keep something new in box unfired in my safe. I guess I am unsure of how much a premium I payed also, and I am never ashamed to reveal how much I payed..all said and done I will have $400 in the 37..with original cardboard box, paperwork, warranty card, a little package with brush/tool?

Thanks for the info on the ammo ..prob call Smith on it


Given what current snubbies go for, I don't think you paid much, if any premium.

LNIB isn't a guarantee that you'll get a good one. I have a 1965 production M17-2(fired very little by previous owners, and obvious from looking at it/in it) that has a barrel to cylinder gap that's too tight. The cylinder actually rubs the barrel breech on four chambers. It left the factory that way. I've also got a barely used 1975(IIRC) production M66 that apparently left the factory with slow timing.
Link Posted: 7/21/2008 2:37:09 PM EST
Hey thanks again machinist

Picked her up today...of course I had to run straight to the range..100 flawless rounds WOW!..I'm in love
Also while I was there the range/gunstore owner heard me talking about it with an employee. He said he is an avid collector of Smith's, and we talked about the +P...He begged me under no circumstance to put +p thru it, and took me in the back and gave me a box of Hornady 125gr JHP XTP's..he said he keeps cases of them just for the early Smith's..He said it was the best performing .38 Special that isn't a +p..Note they are in the pic in a HKS...Also like I said I just got back so the 37 is a bit dirty from it's first 100...also a crappy pic..sorry





Originally Posted By machinisttx:

Originally Posted By car15man:

Originally Posted By machinisttx:
I'm not trying to be a dick in asking this, but why pay a premium for a LNIB gun just to turn around and shoot/carry it(thus throwing away the extra $$$)?


Well..just what I like I guess. I like to purchase new...when I can..and I assure you nothing in my collection stays new or unfired long. Everything from the lowliest Mosin to the Barrett M99 gets used, and shot. I am not the type (not now at least) to keep something new in box unfired in my safe. I guess I am unsure of how much a premium I payed also, and I am never ashamed to reveal how much I payed..all said and done I will have $400 in the 37..with original cardboard box, paperwork, warranty card, a little package with brush/tool?

Thanks for the info on the ammo ..prob call Smith on it


Given what current snubbies go for, I don't think you paid much, if any premium.

LNIB isn't a guarantee that you'll get a good one. I have a 1965 production M17-2(fired very little by previous owners, and obvious from looking at it/in it) that has a barrel to cylinder gap that's too tight. The cylinder actually rubs the barrel breech on four chambers. It left the factory that way. I've also got a barely used 1975(IIRC) production M66 that apparently left the factory with slow timing.
Link Posted: 7/21/2008 4:08:57 PM EST
Federal HydraShok 110 grain loads are also good for your gun. They're fast because of the lighter bullet, but not +P rated. With a snubbie revolver, the lighter bullets will give you more velocity despite the short barrel and cylinder gap.

Your gun won't explode. Firing +P loads will stretch the frames. It will go out of time, which means the chambers won't line up with the barrel. If the gun is fired enough, the timing condition will block enough of the barrel to act as a barrel obstruction.

That is potentially dangerous, but it will shave bullets first. The bullet will strike a small part of the edge of the forcing cone and remove some metal. Your hand will be sprayed with hot lead or copper. You might even notice pieces of the metal on your hand.

That's a gorgeous gun. Enjoy!
Link Posted: 7/21/2008 5:25:13 PM EST

Originally Posted By sigp226:
Federal HydraShok 110 grain loads are also good for your gun. They're fast because of the lighter bullet, but not +P rated. With a snubbie revolver, the lighter bullets will give you more velocity despite the short barrel and cylinder gap.

Your gun won't explode. Firing +P loads will stretch the frames. It will go out of time, which means the chambers won't line up with the barrel. If the gun is fired enough, the timing condition will block enough of the barrel to act as a barrel obstruction.

That is potentially dangerous, but it will shave bullets first. The bullet will strike a small part of the edge of the forcing cone and remove some metal. Your hand will be sprayed with hot lead or copper. You might even notice pieces of the metal on your hand.

That's a gorgeous gun. Enjoy!


Light bullets also don't penetrate as well.
Link Posted: 7/21/2008 7:19:40 PM EST
Link Posted: 7/21/2008 9:36:47 PM EST
[Last Edit: 7/23/2008 3:31:28 PM EST by LtBlue425]
Got a full box of the "Treasury Load" 38 Spec +P+ 110 gr from a Federal agent about 20 years ago. There's still 40 rounds in the box. Very not pleasant to shoot from a stock S&W 37 Airweight. I know the Feds shot them in K framed Smiths and know they had snubbies J frames but don't know if they blessed shooting that particular load in the J frame.

Link Posted: 7/22/2008 3:44:47 AM EST
I'd stick to non +p in your old gun.
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