Newb 1911 repair question

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Newb 1911 repair question

Posted: 4/5/2006 9:04:34 PM EDT

Ok, first time over in this section of the arfcom world and I need some help on my 1911.

When changing the recoil spring, is it necessary to change the mainspring at the same time?

Concerned with issues of different #lb rating on the two. I bought a Wolff extra power spring set, changed the recoil spring, but the main spring on my 1911 is larger dia than the one that came in the package with the set.

Is it gonna hurt anything?
TIA

Oh, in case there is gonna be a flame war, in my defense, I've sold all my glocks

Posted: 4/5/2006 10:19:39 PM EDT

[#1]

Quoted:
Ok, first time over in this section of the arfcom world and I need some help on my 1911.

When changing the recoil spring, is it necessary to change the mainspring at the same time?

Concerned with issues of different #lb rating on the two. I bought a Wolff extra power spring set, changed the recoil spring, but the main spring on my 1911 is larger dia than the one that came in the package with the set.

Is it gonna hurt anything?
TIA

Oh, in case there is gonna be a flame war, in my defense, I've sold all my glocks

IMO, shouldn't hurt anything, but I'd recommend upgrading/changing all the springs at the same time so you don't have one wearing out before the other does, etc.

Posted: 4/6/2006 2:59:03 AM EDT

[#2]

Dude wolf gives you a firing pin spring, not a mainspring. Every year I put a new recoil spring and all new mag springs in my edge (about 10k a year) I have yet to change the firing pin spring or the mainspring.

Posted: 4/6/2006 5:33:47 AM EDT

[#3]

Quoted:
Dude wolf gives you a firing pin spring, not a mainspring.

+1

Only change the mainspring if you are doing a trigger job or experiencing light primer strikes. Other than that, leave it alone.

Posted: 4/6/2006 1:46:43 PM EDT

[#4]

Regarding the recoil spring:

This is the "oil change" of the 1911. Some advocate every 2,000-3,000 rounds. Some advocate 5,000. Some say wait till it breaks. I'm a 3,000 advocate myself. As for the other springs, I wait till they break... so far hasn't ever happened (yet).

Posted: 4/6/2006 1:51:58 PM EDT

[#5]

So what's that say about the factory spring if it's failing to close the slide around 1K?

Thanks for the help guys, and as far as my description of the other spring, I was just going by what the parts breakdown said

Posted: 4/6/2006 5:58:43 PM EDT

[#6]

Never had that problem.

What make 1911?

1k should be nothing for a well made 1911.

My ipsc set usally goes 1k before break down cleaning, and just a few drops of fp-10 on the hood and slide before a match

Posted: 4/6/2006 6:43:23 PM EDT

[#7]

It's a Kimber

Posted: 4/6/2006 7:54:14 PM EDT

[#8]

It says
"you need more lube between the slide and frame rails of your pistol"

or
"you are running out of spec ammo on the large side"

Talk nice to it, It'll tell you what's going on.

Posted: 4/7/2006 3:02:24 AM EDT

[#9]

Are you at using Break Free CLP or better for a lube?
Without the recoil spring install how does the slide function? Is the function smooth?
Any abnormal wear marks?

Are you sure your putting the pistol back to gether correct? Stupid question but I have personally seen it.

Posted: 4/7/2006 8:04:19 AM EDT

[#10]

Quoted:
Are you at using Break Free CLP or better for a lube?
Without the recoil spring install how does the slide function? Is the function smooth?
Any abnormal wear marks?

Are you sure your putting the pistol back to gether correct? Stupid question but I have personally seen it.

I've been using CLP and have just ordered some of the slide lube from Brian Enos.
You'll have to excuse my lack of calling the parts by thier correct names here. It's pretty smooth now, just kind of a hitch when you release the slide and the bolt seems to hang up on the disconnector (?)

I did put it back togethor correctly, pretty damn sure of it. Like I said, now with a loaded mag, slide racked it goes home like it should. Just more of like a speedbump when it goes across that area that I have circled.

I'll get this down sooner or later

Posted: 4/7/2006 8:29:22 AM EDT

[#11]

It's possible your disconnector head may not have a proper bevel, and your recoil spring is working too hard to get the slide over the disconnector.

It'd be helpful to see a photo of your disconnector as it appears from the top of the frame.

Posted: 4/7/2006 8:46:22 AM EDT

[#12]

Quoted:
It's possible your disconnector head may not have a proper bevel, and your recoil spring is working too hard to get the slide over the disconnector.

It'd be helpful to see a photo of your disconnector as it appears from the top of the frame.

Might be able to do that tonight (at work now)

Posted: 4/7/2006 8:51:18 AM EDT

[#13]

I had a recoil spring failure on my 1911. It ended up causing the slide to over extend and break the guide rod. Not sure if it was the original spring or not. Gun was 15 years old. I had ~600rds, before me, dad had ~300 or so round count. He got it used. I replaced it with a Wolff spring and standard guide rod. 'smith said shoot it until something breaks. He tested the trigger spring, said it was fine. He said with the Wolffs it will last longer than a stock spring's 5k suggested replacement.

ETA: Crazy part is, I don't know which round broke the gun. It shot fine until I put it in the bag. I took it home, broke it down to clean it and there were the pieces.

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Newb 1911 repair question

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