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1/22/2020 12:12:56 PM
Posted: 7/18/2008 2:58:32 PM EST
I'm kinda new to the 1911 world. Just got my first one finely last week from a gun show. I's a use Springfield Defender Model. I pick it up for 420 bucks. I was wanting to put some new parts on it but I dont know what's the difference with the model 70 and model 80.

I was looking at getting new trigger, springs, thumb safety, slide release, mainspring housing and a new beaver tail. I got a drop in Wilson Combat beaver tail safety and the finish is already wearing off just from me playing with it for a couple of days.

My question to you guys is What's the difference in an A1 and a non A1??? What's a model 70 and 80???
Link Posted: 7/18/2008 3:16:57 PM EST
A1 or 70 is a original Browning design. A real 1911.
A2 or 80 is a liberal induced, lawyer enforced bastard. Screw'em.
Its got to be single stack, single (left) slide safety and no lock or it's something else.
And hell yes I will be snotty about it!
Link Posted: 7/18/2008 4:03:44 PM EST
Link Posted: 7/18/2008 4:32:39 PM EST
Actually a SA isnt either. The only thing that matters is if you have a Series 80. Then you need a firing pin and extractor for a Series 80. You can actually use those Series 80 parts in a Springfield as well.
Link Posted: 7/18/2008 4:41:10 PM EST

Originally Posted By beltfed74:
Actually a SA isnt either. The only thing that matters is if you have a Series 80. Then you need a firing pin and extractor for a Series 80. You can actually use those Series 80 parts in a Springfield as well.


well, the extractor, maybe, but I'm under the impression that Springfield uses a .38Super firing pin, FP spring, and FP stop in all their pistois, vice the larger .45 firing pin and parts attendant thereto. At least, my Loaded has one. I wouldn't know about the Custom Shop products.
Link Posted: 7/18/2008 5:14:56 PM EST
[Last Edit: 7/22/2008 5:19:14 PM EST by hooks]
The difference between a model 70 and a model 80 is the trigger mechanism on the 80 enables the firing pin to be blocked via a plunger being activated. The extractor, firing pin, firing pin plate, trigger bar lever....are all parts either modified(different from the 70 series design to work on the series 80) or new (series 80 specific and not found on the series 70) to accomplish this..

ETA: to clarify some stuff....
Link Posted: 7/19/2008 6:16:13 AM EST
Link Posted: 7/20/2008 4:33:39 PM EST
Thanks for the input guys. I put a wilson combat barrel on it and took it to the range. @ 5 to 15 yards I was able to send rounds in the same holes. 15 to 25 yrds was a little off but I'm happy about the resorts. Witch is a lot better then my glock. I did some reserch on the weapon today, It a Springfeild 1911a1 Defender model made from 88 to 90 with a full length slide and barrel, not like the new defender model with the comp on it now. I would like to get an Ed brown main spring housing, trigger, I like to replace the firing pin just cause i know it's old.
Link Posted: 7/20/2008 5:20:15 PM EST
I thought Colt did the Defender model & not SA??????
Link Posted: 7/20/2008 6:57:46 PM EST
[Last Edit: 7/20/2008 6:58:10 PM EST by ViniVidivici]

Originally Posted By M4-Stag:
A1 or 70 is a original Browning design. A real 1911.
A2 or 80 is a liberal induced, lawyer enforced bastard. Screw'em.
Its got to be single stack, single (left) slide safety and no lock or it's something else.
And hell yes I will be snotty about it!


A purist! Refreshing!

(although I'v comitted heresy by owning a Kimber, SERIES II, and I put an ambi-safety on it! I am damned for sure.......)
Link Posted: 7/20/2008 8:12:11 PM EST

Originally Posted By justwoody1:
Thanks for the input guys. I put a wilson combat barrel on it and took it to the range.


Whoa. How did you put the barrel in? Who fitted it? I fit was not done by a competent gunsmith, DO NOT SHOOT WITH IT! Barrels are NOT drop-in on 1911's.
Link Posted: 7/20/2008 8:15:56 PM EST
BTW. Stay away from those drop-in beavertails too. They suck.

Back slowly away from the .45. Stop swapping out parts until you know what you are doing.

Seriously. You are going to hurt yourself.
Link Posted: 7/21/2008 3:25:54 AM EST
Wow Talk about a thread full of non-sense.

1. the firing pin safety was invented by Colt in the 20's. It was only on a few guns before it what put on the shelf. Then in the early 80s Colt improved the line with a solid bushing, some changes to the barrel, and the FP safety returned. The main reason for the FP safety was a number of LEO and other contract proposals required a drop safety. Which is why SIG, Glock, Beretta, S&W, and others have them. There were no big gun grabbing law suits in 1983.

And for the so claimed purist, the only pure examply you can buy new is the Colt 1911 repo. Anyone running a beaver tail, novak sights, anything than a plain jane safety, Stippled / serrations and then squalks about a firing pin safety is a hypocrite.

2. Drop in barrel. You can get a drop in barrel that is safe and works just fine. But you may not get any better accuracy, it all depends on how close to spec your pistol is. A semi-fit is a diffent story and must be fitted. Thousands of thousands of GI 1911 and A1's got field replacement barrels that were never fitted. They just might not have the best lockup.

3. Drop in grip safetys work on some but SA does not cut the tangs to spec so I would not bother. Even on a Colt, the look is subjective.

4 You can drop in a trigger and there are sear and hammer drop ins that a novice can do but grip and thumb safetys need fitted.

This is a good source for do it yourself..

www.blindhogg.com/gunsmithing.html
Link Posted: 7/21/2008 8:07:24 AM EST
[Last Edit: 7/21/2008 8:08:13 AM EST by slash-5]
I had a drop in barrel in the exact same gun (Springfield Defender) that was off by a few thousandths (headspace) when checked by Ted Yost. I ended up paying for him to install a Kart barrel. He said it was a miracle I didn't have a "boom" when I wanted a "bang".

That's all I know.

Sure seems like a lot is involved here.
Link Posted: 7/22/2008 4:33:46 PM EST
[Last Edit: 7/22/2008 4:37:47 PM EST by FortyFiveAutomatic]

Originally Posted By slash-5:
I had a drop in barrel in the exact same gun (Springfield Defender) that was off by a few thousandths (headspace) when checked by Ted Yost. I ended up paying for him to install a Kart barrel. He said it was a miracle I didn't have a "boom" when I wanted a "bang".

That's all I know.

Sure seems like a lot is involved here.


That's fitting a match barrel.

Wilson Combat drop-ins are just fine.

Congrats on your new purchase. I remember when I got my first 1911. Still makes me euphoric.

ETA: You should fit your own beavertail, instead of using the drop-in. I hate those sharp edges where the tail doesn't quite meet the frame. Those kinds of drop-in beavertails are more for use on Colt model 1911's. They have more metal on that part of the frame and the gap is considerably less.

Do yourself a favor and return that one if you can, then get a legit beavertail and an Ed Brown fitting jig. Attach the jig to the frame, dremel it down to the jig, attach your new beavertail, then dremel the underside of that tang to smoothen it out with the beavertail. Refinish, then you're done.

Much more comfortable and IMO a lot nicer looking if you do it that way.
Link Posted: 7/22/2008 5:10:50 PM EST
[Last Edit: 7/22/2008 5:19:39 PM EST by justwoody1]
height=8
Originally Posted By slash-5:
height=8
Originally Posted By justwoody1:
Thanks for the input guys. I put a wilson combat barrel on it and took it to the range.


Whoa. How did you put the barrel in? Who fitted it? I fit was not done by a competent gunsmith, DO NOT SHOOT WITH IT! Barrels are NOT drop-in on 1911's.


The barrel is fitted to the weapon. Just because this is my first 1911 doesn't mean it's my first gun. But thanks for the consern And yeah the drop in beavertail does suck, I really don't like that big ass gap that's there but a got an Ed Brown coming and it should be here by tomorrow. So you guys know what i'll be working on this weekend. lol
Link Posted: 7/22/2008 5:14:16 PM EST
height=8
Originally Posted By FortyFiveAutomatic:
height=8
Originally Posted By slash-5:
I had a drop in barrel in the exact same gun (Springfield Defender) that was off by a few thousandths (headspace) when checked by Ted Yost. I ended up paying for him to install a Kart barrel. He said it was a miracle I didn't have a "boom" when I wanted a "bang".

That's all I know.

Sure seems like a lot is involved here.


That's fitting a match barrel.

Wilson Combat drop-ins are just fine.

Congrats on your new purchase. I remember when I got my first 1911. Still makes me euphoric. hould
Do yourself a favor and return that one if you can, then get a legit beavertail and an Ed Brown fitting jig. Attach the jig to the frame, dremel it down to the jig, attach your new beavertail, then dremel the underside of that tang to smoothen it out with the beavertail. Refinish, then you're done.

Much more comfortable and IMO a lot nicer looking if you do it that way.


Yeah, that gap sucks, I got it while I was at the gun show and they didn't have any Ed Browns. I don't think I'll buy Wilson parts again besides their mags. Just from me holding it wore off the finish on the GS.
Link Posted: 7/22/2008 6:13:28 PM EST

Originally Posted By justwoody1:

Originally Posted By FortyFiveAutomatic:

Originally Posted By slash-5:
I had a drop in barrel in the exact same gun (Springfield Defender) that was off by a few thousandths (headspace) when checked by Ted Yost. I ended up paying for him to install a Kart barrel. He said it was a miracle I didn't have a "boom" when I wanted a "bang".

That's all I know.

Sure seems like a lot is involved here.


That's fitting a match barrel.

Wilson Combat drop-ins are just fine.

Congrats on your new purchase. I remember when I got my first 1911. Still makes me euphoric.

ETA: You should fit your own beavertail, instead of using the drop-in. I hate those sharp edges where the tail doesn't quite meet the frame. Those kinds of drop-in beavertails are more for use on Colt model 1911's. They have more metal on that part of the frame and the gap is considerably less.

Do yourself a favor and return that one if you can, then get a legit beavertail and an Ed Brown fitting jig. Attach the jig to the frame, dremel it down to the jig, attach your new beavertail, then dremel the underside of that tang to smoothen it out with the beavertail. Refinish, then you're done.

Much more comfortable and IMO a lot nicer looking if you do it that way.


Yeah, that gap sucks, I got it while I was at the gun show and they didn't have any Ed Browns. I don't think I'll buy Wilson parts again besides their mags. Just from me holding it wore off the finish on the GS.


Yep WC is pretty good at making magazines, but they are way overrated IMO. Those plastic followers leave something to be desired. On my guns, sometimes they don't lock the slide open on the last shot. I think in the future I will be buying Chip McCormick PowerMags, which are cheaper, have metal parts, and at least out of my circle of 1911-shooting friends, have a better functional track record.

As far as any other 1911 parts are concerned, Ed Brown is the way to go. A little pricey, but the quality control is well worth the money IMO.
Link Posted: 7/24/2008 8:49:26 AM EST
I've checking out Tripp Research mags and they look pretty good from what I can see. A couple of people on 1911 forum said they are pretty good and they have a metel rap around their followers. It's about the same price as Wilson's mag. I'm gonna order a couple next week and check 'em out. Well post resurts.
Link Posted: 7/24/2008 10:38:38 AM EST

Originally Posted By justwoody1:
I've checking out Tripp Research mags and they look pretty good from what I can see. A couple of people on 1911 forum said they are pretty good and they have a metel rap around their followers. It's about the same price as Wilson's mag. I'm gonna order a couple next week and check 'em out. Well post resurts.


are those the cobramags? if so, they are really good.
Link Posted: 7/24/2008 10:42:31 AM EST
[Last Edit: 7/24/2008 10:43:27 AM EST by FortyFiveAutomatic]

Originally Posted By justwoody1:
I've checking out Tripp Research mags and they look pretty good from what I can see. A couple of people on 1911 forum said they are pretty good and they have a metel rap around their followers. It's about the same price as Wilson's mag. I'm gonna order a couple next week and check 'em out. Well post resurts.


Cobramags are awesome, but a little pricey IMO. At what price are you picking yours up?

Link Posted: 7/27/2008 7:47:58 PM EST
I saw the Cobra mags for $32. The same price as Wilson mags so I ordered two just to check them out for myself ya know. Heard alot of good things about them.
Link Posted: 7/28/2008 5:18:55 PM EST
[Last Edit: 7/28/2008 5:19:46 PM EST by hooks]
I've used the Cobra upgrade kits with hybrid followers on some older magazines with great results. Junk magazines become new again... for under $10 a pop.... I can only imagaine that the full blown cobra tripp mags are just as good....I'l be getting some myself before fall shooting starts...
Link Posted: 7/28/2008 7:02:29 PM EST
got her done last Sunday. I'm happy how she turned out. http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i31/justwoody1/DSC00042.jpg
Link Posted: 7/28/2008 7:08:36 PM EST
Nice man, looks like ya did good!
Link Posted: 7/28/2008 8:28:24 PM EST

Originally Posted By justwoody1:
got her done last Sunday. I'm happy how she turned out. i68.photobucket.com/albums/i31/justwoody1/DSC00042.jpg


Your gun looks fantastic!

Did you do it yourself, or did you have someone do it?

Either way, good on you; makes me want to get another 1911
Link Posted: 7/29/2008 1:27:28 PM EST
Yep did it all myself. I started by sanding it with lightly sanding it with some 600 grit sandpaper just to scuff up the perk on it and then the degrease it then I clean it with lacquer thinner before I sprayed it with 4 coats of Duracoat. I called springfeild today and they told my she was made in September 1989. Wow I got a classic.
Link Posted: 7/29/2008 1:43:55 PM EST
Did you do the beavertail and extended safety work yourself, too?
Link Posted: 7/31/2008 9:15:19 AM EST
Insted of buying the EB jig I took an allen wrench and wrap some tape around it just to make the shocket sit thight then I stock a 1/4 inch 9mm shocket for my jig and the safety wasn't that hard to do either. If you take the beaver tail off and the mainspring houseing. when you put in the thumb safety you can see where it's hitting the sear. There's a how to on 1911forum on the beaver tail that's pretty good.
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