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Posted: 9/12/2010 6:01:24 PM EDT
[#1]
what trigger did you install?
does you trigger have enough pre-travel? the over-travel screw is adjusted to a point where the sear clears the hammer hooks and the 1/2 cock notch. a little more over-travel is better than too little over-travel. check to see that you didn't mess up your sear spring when you re-assembled it. |
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Posted: 9/12/2010 6:01:49 PM EDT
[#2]
Quoted:
I installed a drop in short trigger on my Kimber Stainless Target II chambered in 10mm on Friday. I took it out today to try out how the new trigger felt. I was just in the mood for plinking so I had my.22 slide on it. about the second mag in it released a 3-4 shot string. I stopped firing and checked the gun over and nothing appeared wrong so I went back to shooting. I shot about 3-4 more mags then it started going auto again. I was starting to think the firing pin might be sticking so I put the 10mm slide back on and proceeded to shoot a burst in 10mm. What i noticed is that when it would burst was the hammer would always stop in the dropped position on a live round. My question is how do I fix this and what does the overtravel screw on the trigger do? Thanks in advance 1911 and "drop in" are often not compatible. The overtravel screw keeps the trigger from traveling far after the the shot breaks. A gunsmith is your best bet. |
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Posted: 9/12/2010 6:06:14 PM EDT
[#3]
There is probably something wrong with the dis connector. It may be sticking to the sear. If the part isn't fitted with enough clearance, sometimes you can get the gun to go together and work great few rounds, and then the hammer will follow because the dis connector didn't clear the sear to allow it to reset. You need to disassemble the gun and pay attention to how the parts are interacting to trouble shoot it.
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Posted: 9/12/2010 6:08:34 PM EDT
[#4]
The disconnector maybe?
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Posted: 9/12/2010 6:10:47 PM EDT
[#5]
Put the original trigger back in.
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Posted: 9/12/2010 6:12:11 PM EDT
[#6]
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=717974
This is the trigger I used. I will disassemble and make sure everything looks ok inside. |
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Posted: 9/12/2010 6:34:18 PM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=717974 This is the trigger I used. I will disassemble and make sure everything looks ok inside. How will you know what you're looking for? Just put the original trigger back in for now, and seek the help of a professional to install the new trigger. |
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Posted: 9/12/2010 6:50:24 PM EDT
[#8]
With Kimbers, the usual cause is excessive trigger over-travel.
Trigger over-travel is limited by either: The trigger over-travel screw stopping against the mag catch, or the rear of the trigger bow stopping against the lower angled surface of the grip safety arm. Kimber grip safeties are over-cut in this area. If the trigger over-travel screw is maladjusted, the trigger can move so far to the rear, as to unseat the sear spring from either/or the sear or the disconnector. Beware the 'authority' that recommends removing and discarding the over-travel screw. |
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Posted: 9/12/2010 7:02:44 PM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
With Kimbers, the usual cause is excessive trigger over-travel. Trigger over-travel is limited by either: The trigger over-travel screw stopping against the mag catch, or the rear of the trigger bow stopping against the lower angled surface of the grip safety arm. Kimber grip safeties are over-cut in this area. If the trigger over-travel screw is maladjusted, the trigger can move so far to the rear, as to unseat the sear spring from either/or the sear or the disconnector. Beware the 'authority' that recommends removing and discarding the over-travel screw. Discarding an overtravel screw would be a terrible idea even if that weren't an issue, because excessive over travel will cause the shooter to shoot poorly. |
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Posted: 9/12/2010 7:08:49 PM EDT
[#10]
I would not suggest taking it to the range again until you get it figured out... lest you you want to be a guest of the government for 10 years...
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Posted: 9/13/2010 5:02:23 AM EDT
[#11]
I had the same problem with a Kimber once. Removing the over travel screw is what cause it.
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Posted: 9/13/2010 6:53:23 AM EDT
[#12]
Quoted: With Kimbers, the usual cause is excessive trigger over-travel. Trigger over-travel is limited by either: The trigger over-travel screw stopping against the mag catch, or the rear of the trigger bow stopping against the lower angled surface of the grip safety arm. Kimber grip safeties are over-cut in this area. If the trigger over-travel screw is maladjusted, the trigger can move so far to the rear, as to unseat the sear spring from either/or the sear or the disconnector. Beware the 'authority' that recommends removing and discarding the over-travel screw. Thank you Sir.  |
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Posted: 9/13/2010 6:58:48 AM EDT
[#13]
full-auto 10mm gets expensive real quick...
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Posted: 9/13/2010 7:08:07 AM EDT
[#14]
1911s ain't AR15s. Drop-in is a lie.
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Posted: 9/13/2010 11:30:46 AM EDT
[#15]
Quoted:
With Kimbers, the usual cause is excessive trigger over-travel. Trigger over-travel is limited by either: The trigger over-travel screw stopping against the mag catch, or the rear of the trigger bow stopping against the lower angled surface of the grip safety arm. Kimber grip safeties are over-cut in this area. If the trigger over-travel screw is maladjusted, the trigger can move so far to the rear, as to unseat the sear spring from either/or the sear or the disconnector. Beware the 'authority' that recommends removing and discarding the over-travel screw. Thank you for this info. I adjusted in the over-travel screw a couple more turns while making sure the trigger would still disengage the sear. Took it back out today and put a hundred rounds through it with no burst fires. I will shoot it a few more times before I am sure its fixed, but everything is looking up. I know it wasn't exactly a drop in trigger but with a few minutes worth of work from a hone its pretty much a drop in trigger. |
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