Posted: 9/8/2013 5:31:09 PM EDT
I just bought one of the black threaded MkIIIs and put a can on it.
What are the must haves for this gun and who makes them
I have heard I need:
New firing pin
Magazine disconnect removal
Loaded chamber indicator removal
I put the Tandemkross hammer bushing to eliminate the magazine disconnect... I recommend them!
I put the Tandemkross Loaded Chamber Indicater insert and I was very disappointed in the sloppy fit. I am considering modifying the factory part where it no longer makes contact with the chamber round and tossing the Tandemkross part!
Check out this thread
[QUOTE=RollingThunder51;2681702]Sure, I'll give it my best. But, the he said, they said, stuff ends now. There have been too many important changes to baffles/materials for anybody to say that nothing has changed for 15 years and that's a good thing. It isn't.
Titanium stacks have really helped the .22 integrals, as has better welding machinery and multi axis baffles cutting/face work.
Now I already got that you don't believe that a properly suppressed .50's sound is perceived by the operator at less than an unsuppressed .22, but you are only sitting behind one to know you are indeed wrong.
You should have said to the rep "Oh yea, show me", you would not have been the first. There is a great deal of crap out there about AWC as for the last decade Lynn thought defending himself against "I read allot" was immaterial.
Here, now all videos suck at reproducing sound, I rarely use them as you can do anything with the sound as well.
Turbodyne vs .22 - Yes, the lead in is goofy.
awc turbodyne 50 - Bing Videos
But we don't rely EVER on a video, why because you can do this...PRESENTED AS A JOKE please do not take anything away from this..but you will get the message as the sound has been altered.
Also, There are a number of companies that take LONGER to build there cans than EI. And, you only need to index your can if it is QD. Threaded cans with proper shoulders are not indexed.
Since you mentioned it, accuracy on the AWC's is un-surpassed, and only matched to my experience by one other company....and they take the long road to perfection as well.
More than a few folks build superb cans, all of them give it the custom build that you speak of....accuracy and suppression is how we judge the results.
Again experience is best, but if you are a reader, start here:
10 in 15 yards, ok. How about 5 at 64 METERS with four in the same hole. This is the same armature as the amphibian, but in their Ultra II. Cold clean bore. Longer barrel, same technology.
Bad ring is usually from poorly or not even welded cans. Accuracy in an integral comes from four sources:
1. The quality of the barrel and chamber.
2. The quality of the baffle, from its facings and bore dimensionality.
3. The manner by which the baffles are held in position and the resulting suppressor bore trueness as a result.
4. The ammo
Now, when we remember that the only purpose of an integral pistol/rifle is to take standard High Velocity ammo and uniformly drop the resulting projectile velocity to just transonic, a few facts come into play.
No integral needs or should use subsonic ammo.
A good integral is designed for a specific brand and velocity of ammo....and tuned for maximum subsonic velocity, terminal force and accuracy for that specific ammo.
To get that HV round subsonic a designer can either use a short barrel or tap gas prior to the can.
When a company chooses to cut the barrel back there are consequences in accuracy and the can designer has some very real choices between suppression values and accuracy.
In other words just about any quality can maker can make a reasonably quiet can. For instance you can build a can that is so tight to bore that it is quiet but might impact flight path.
Or one could add volume those would be your aluminum spacers (longer can = longer pistols).
Or one could add baffles (longer can = longer pistol).
But, in most instances, if you want the shortest OAL length, while still maximizing potential subsonic velocity and take down terminal energy with the quietest armature...your 360 degree circumferential welding the whole stack into one armature.
And then you are threading the receiver and providing some torque to the whole barrel/can assembly to get the benefits of harmonic suppression.
Again, shoot coated/plated .22s and you can go tens of thousands or rounds before using the tool I showed for a high pressure cleaning of the propellant debris.
Now...the Mark III one man's opinion...opinion....personal opinion...
1. Bad chamber, too sloppy for excellent suppression, creates prime conditions for back pop each and every time you pull the trigger.
2. California chamber indicator allows more junk to enter the chamber area, especially sand and grit. Indicator spring can fail and lock the pistol up.
3. No free fall magazine release anymore. Instead there is an internal lock-out so that clip removal dis-allows the trigger/bolt to be pulled.
4. Panic reverse mag insertion = dead pistol as the magazine cannot be removed...period. Tool is needed as dis assembly will not help. Read here : Mag-Out the only tool designed to Get your Backwards Mark III Magazines out Safely!
5. The overly complicated safety features listed above increase parts count, more complicated field stripping, increasing chance for lost parts, especially the safety bead and spring.
6. Worst extractor quality in Ruger's history. Own it? Like the III? Just wait to see what happens with your extractor over a very short period of time. Terrible heat treating.
7. Definitely a legendarily poor firing pin, worst in Ruger's history...
and on and on and on.....
Hope that helps.
p.s. Few (<1%) send in their Amphibians for anything AWC. There are about 14 generations of Amphibians and some do send it in for newer gen upgrades, but mostly they shoot out the barrel long before the can goes.
Yep, decades of .22 can use, I really like them allot. Nope have no affiliation with the company at all. But I do research the crap out of my cans.[