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Posted: 2/16/2006 4:40:28 PM EDT
Alright, T bone and I have posted that our micro compacts are having trouble with the slide stop catching mid magazine.

I looked at mine, Now I am no gunsmith or anything, but I think I may know what the issue is.

The slide stop is cut on the back end at a slight angle.  This surface rides against the slide stop plunger spring on the frame.  

I took my barrel and out and reassembled without the barrel and internal spring.  

The slide stop is very tight in the frame, the slide stop plunger spring really pushes on the back side of the slide stop.  Now, that angle cut on the slidestop is not cut steep enough to hold the slide stop down.  Actually the slide stop moves upward by itself, and I have to push it back down.

Now, the fix.  If the back of the slide stop was cut at a little bit steeper angle, the slide stop plunger spring would push against the steeper angled back side of the slide stop and force the slide stop downward.  The magazine would still lift the slide stop upon being empty.

Alright, That is MY theory, any gunsmiths out there want to give some advise??

Link Posted: 2/16/2006 5:03:49 PM EDT
Same here, no gunsmith but I tend to play one when nobody's around.  

Typically the slide stop will have a small indentation where the plunger rests to keep it in position, ie down until the mag follower pushes up on it.  It sounds like your slide stop may not have that slight relief, or it may not be deep enough.  

As for a fix I don't know the best way as I've never had to do it.  I would guess a small file could be used to remove just a small amount of material where the plunger should rest when the slide stop is in the down position.  Or perhaps a center punch could be used, gently, to create a slightly deeper relief.  If you use a punch though, make sure to clean up any burrs that might be left behind by the deformation.

I'm sure others will jump in here.
Link Posted: 2/16/2006 5:27:20 PM EDT
I am unable to link specific articles from "the sight", a good 1911 reference, but have read some good stuff there. In a couple of spots, they discuss the slide stop and two common causes for premature slidelock.

One is inertia, wherein the stop essentially is bounced up during recoil under it's own weight. The suggested solution to this is either to file a small groove where the plunger meets the stop, or to "dimple" the stop at this point (possibly a drill bit or small grinding ball, which is what I used from my Dremel kit). I did mine just barely, and may do more, but bought the WC Bullet Proof unit partly because it has this feature (not very pronounced though) built in.

The second cause is rounds moving slightly forward in the magazine (generally later rounds, when there is less spring pressure in the mag) and contacting the slide stop inside the frame as they are pushed up. The remedy here prescribed was either as above or to remove some metal on the inside of the stop in the area of contact, enough to stop or reduce contact, but not enough to prevent slidelock on an empty mag. To check this condidtion, it was suggested to remove the slide from the pistol and insert a partially loaded magazine into the mag well. Slide the round forward as it may find itself doing under recoil, then insert the mag further until the bullet nose passes or contacts the slide stop.

I tried a bit of both of these fixes, but was unsuccessful. I removed very little metal, and did not dimple the stop deeply either. Keep in mind, if you mess it up, you may be replacing the slide stop (a rather inexpensve part, around $30 for stock or many aftermarket).

Just because this didn't work for me, doesn't mean it won't for you. It also may work for me if I take the work a bit further. OTOH, I would wonder what Springfield would say if they received a gun that had been worked on in this manner. We may find out with mine.
Link Posted: 2/17/2006 3:33:49 AM EDT

Springfield will void the warranty for that,  Or at least that is the common understanding of thier warrnties.  I will call them today.  

My slide stop does not have a dimple, it is just cut at an angle, I can actually see the milling marks from where they cut it.  I really think they steeper angle on the back edge would fix this issue, I may just go ahead and try it.

Link Posted: 2/17/2006 6:45:55 AM EDT
Alrighty then,

I spoke to S/A this morning,  they said fire another 2-300 rounds, becareful to watch you rthumb is not hitting the slide stop.  But, if it persists, they would want it back.
Link Posted: 2/17/2006 11:12:32 AM EDT
Yep. Mine has many more rounds through it. And I know my finger isn't hitting the stop (I'm lieft handed and have yet to train off hand with this.... I always get past my initial run in reliablility check before I start off hand training).

As for mine, I've decided to work over the stock slide stop a bit more. Then try different mags/ammo if the problem persists. Last course of action will be either back to SA or off to the local 1911 guru/smith. Hopefully, it won't go that far!

BTW, I should mention, be sure to keep a very firm grip on the weapon when firing. 1911's a re notorious for malf. when not held firmly.
Link Posted: 2/17/2006 11:56:25 AM EDT
I had a Champion about 8 years ago..I was having that same problem. I got mine used and being a tinkerer, I set about trying to fix it..

I found that the side of the bullets, during recoil, was impacting the slide release..I Dremeled a bit off the release and I never has that problem again..

Link Posted: 2/17/2006 1:03:36 PM EDT
Link Posted: 2/17/2006 1:41:19 PM EDT
Maybe I should try shooting this one right handed? Of course, then I'd need a right randed VM-2
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