What you mightl want to do, if you are fairly handy with tools, is get a Brownells SAA stoning kit and some good mini files. The stoning kit has 3 stones for polishing the bearing surfaces, one is specifically made for the hand slot. The insides of Ubertis can be pretty rough, left over tooling marks, etc. I found that after stoning the appropriate surfaces, the guns are very smooth, and really didn't need lighter springs.
The bolt, generally from the factory, is fit juuust enough to pass operation testing. I've had eight pairs of Uberti revolvers, every one needed "tweaking" to get a good bolt/cylinder slot fit. You need to have the best bolt fit possible, especially if you will run the gun hard, i.e. shooting 2-handed and cocking with your off thumb very, very fast. Poor bolt fit can cause the cylinder to over rotate, misaliging the chamber & bore. Not good. It can also cause the dreaded cylinder ring (drag marks from the bolt).
Just a note on the Wolff spring pack. I have a pair of the Model P Ubertis (basically the same gun as yours) and I dropped a spring pack in them. I had several lights hits that failed to set off the primers (Win & Fed), took them back out and replaced the originals - no more problemos. But, your gun may be different
Jerry Kuhnhausen has a very good resource book for SAA revolvers (and just about every other handgun too; Ruger DAs, S&W DAs, Colt DAs & 1911s, I got'em all) and goes into extreme detail about the workings of the SAA guns.
Gun books
After shooting, be sure to check the hammer screw, it tends to loosen up after several rounds. I tighten mine after every match.
Now, get some
black powder cartridges and shoot it like you mean it!