Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login
Site Notices
9/19/2017 7:27:10 PM
Posted: 2/11/2006 2:22:46 AM EDT
First 1911, its a parked GI model. I took it to the range and out of 100 rounds fired only one jam that was most likely due to me trying to grip the gun lower so I would not get bit. I have a small cut on the webbing of my right hand.

I NEED a bevertail. I did not think this would be a problem as I have small hands but it is. I am sure the gun jamed due to limp wrist from adjusting to avoid the bite. It never jammed after I adjusted my grip better.

It is very accurate even though I think I am a bad shot. My first shot hit the bottom of the center circle (Luck). Anyway where can I buy a bevertail. I read in another post that this is not a drop in part so I will most likely have to get a smith to install it.

Please respond. Thanks.
Link Posted: 2/11/2006 2:26:36 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/11/2006 2:33:51 AM EDT by Mr45auto]
There are several drop in beavertails available that require no smithing HOWEVER they will never fit as well nor feel as good in the hand as a fitted beavertail. You would have to describe your malfunction a bit to know if it was caused by limp wristing or not.

My GI will not limp wrist malf no matter how hard I try to make it. I'm over 2K without a hiccup of any sort yet.

Check the gun parts section at www.midwayusa.com

My Colt commander has the Wilson Combat drop in unit and it works but the gun will definitely be getting an Ed Brown fitted beavertail soon.

Forgot to mention you'll need to install a commander hammer or bob the spur a bit on your stock hammer.
Link Posted: 2/11/2006 2:57:19 AM EDT
Hey man thanks alot for replying. I just got off of Midway and saw all the parts they had. When they say drop in Beavertail how drop in is it. I mean how much work is involved in installing it?. Also would it be easier to buy a new hammer to go with the Beavertail than to try to modify the stock one.

I also had another problem I forgot to mention. There is some kind of problem with my plunger tube or I am just not doing something right. When I disassembled the gun for cleaning I could not get the slide stop back on. After cutting my hand badly trying to get the slide stop back on I ended up using a flat head screw driver to press the little button on the tube to slide the stop back on.

If you have any info please reply. 1 inch cut on my hand still hurts
Link Posted: 2/11/2006 3:17:40 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/11/2006 3:18:33 AM EDT by cmjohnson]
Link Posted: 2/11/2006 3:23:09 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/11/2006 3:25:06 AM EDT by Mr45auto]
There's a rounded section on the backside of your slide stop that you place up against the plunger and push up and in at the same time it should pop right in place. You should not need a screwdriver to put it back together.

As far as modifying your stock hammer it's a simple matter of shortening up the hammer spur a bit so the gun can fully cock. You may or may not need to do that with a drop in type beavertail.

The beavertail is actually semi drop in, you might have to file the tail a tiny bit to make it fit properly but nothing drastic, just compare it to your stock grip safety and see if it's sticking out too far. My Colt went together with only a couple file strokes to the beavertail.
Link Posted: 2/11/2006 4:04:03 AM EDT

Originally Posted By cmjohnson:
Sound like your order of reassembly is wrong.

Starting with a field stripped 1911,

Install the barrel in the slide.

Install the recoil spring guide, put the recoil spring on, but leave the plunger off.
The spring just sticks out of the hole under the barrel for now.

Install the slide stop by holding the gun at an angle that is suitable for aligning the
swinging barrel link so the hole matches up to the slide stop hole. Place the slide stop
through the hole and barrel link, press it against the frame with your thumb, and work the action,
seating the slide stop fully. You'll know if you missed the hole in the barrel link.

Now put the plunger cap back on the recoil spring. Place the barrel bushing on the barrel,
rotate it as needed to allow clearance for the recoil spring and plunger, and push the plunger
in and rotate the barrel bushing to the locked position.

You never fight any springs in a 1911 until it's time to put the recoil plunger back into place,
at the end of the reassembly process. Many other guns require you to fight the recoil
spring just to reassemble the gun, but not a 1911.

CJ



When I took it apart I never took the plunger off. Should I have? I only removed the slide, that was it.
Link Posted: 2/11/2006 4:25:24 AM EDT
Not quite understanding what you mean there, how exactly did you disassemble it?


Link Posted: 2/11/2006 4:30:04 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Mr45auto:
Not quite understanding what you mean there, how exactly did you disassemble it?





Dropped the mag. racked the slide 2 times, checked the chamber, then pushed the slide stop out and removed the slide.

Once I was done cleaning was when the trouble started. No matter how hard I pushed against the plunger spring it would not go on.

I have an old crappy Llama and Never have any problem getting the slide back on. Must be me?
Link Posted: 2/11/2006 4:36:55 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/11/2006 4:43:55 AM EDT by Mr45auto]
Okay, clear the gun the rotate the bushing and pop the recoil spring out. Rotate it the other way and remove the bushing. Then roll the gun over, position the slide properly and pop out the slide stop. You're trying to take it apart like a sig or glock, cant do it that way on the 1911.

When you reassemble it put the barrel in the slide, put the bushing on the barrel ( cocked to the side) and put the spring guide on the bottom of the barrel in the slide. Lay the link towards the muzzle. Put the frame on the slide then roll it over (upright)and visually look through the hole to see that the link is properly lined up you may have to move the slide/bbl a bit. After getting the slide stop in place completely insert the recoil spring, compress it put the plunger back on and rotate the bushing to lock it all together.

It's harder to explain than to do it.

www.m1911.org/stripin1.htm
Link Posted: 2/11/2006 4:45:36 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Mr45auto:
Okay, clear the gun the rotate the bushing and pop the recoil spring out. Rotate it the other way and remove the bushing. Then roll the gun over, position the slide properly and pop out the slide stop. You're trying to take it apart like a sig or glock, cant do it that way on the 1911.

When you reassemble it put the barrel in the slide, put the bushing on the barrel ( cocked to the side) and put the spring guide on the bottom of the barrel in the slide. Lay the link towards the muzzle. Put the frame on the slide then roll it over and visually look through the hole to see that the link is properly lined up you may have to move the slide/bbl a bit. After getting the slide stop in place completely insert the recoil spring, compress it put the plunger back on and rotate the bushing to lock it all together.

It's harder to explain than to do it.

www.m1911.org/stripin1.htm



Your are absolutly right. I own a G17 and probably did try to disasemble it exactly like you said. After I reread what you wrote a few times I will try it. I am at work(Supposed to be doing snow ops...Shhhh!) so I cant work on it right now.

As soon as I get home I will try what you said. Thanks for everything.
Link Posted: 2/14/2006 1:07:21 AM EDT
Well after going to the range and putting 300 rounds through it I disassembled it following your instructions. As you said it was harder to explain then it was to do.

I cleaned it up nice and put it back together with ease. Thanks again everyone for your help.
Link Posted: 2/14/2006 7:59:00 AM EDT
I hope your 300 rounds were hiccup free.

Btw, dont be afraid to feed that GI LSWCs or JHPs mine feeds them just fine.
Link Posted: 2/15/2006 3:12:25 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Mr45auto:
I hope your 300 rounds were hiccup free.

Btw, dont be afraid to feed that GI LSWCs or JHPs mine feeds them just fine.



Nope it never jammed once. I was double tapping and rapid firing it it never failed once. I do have a new cut on my hand though. Got to get a beavertail!!!

I went to a local shop that quoted me $150 for labor and $70 for the beavertail itself. I saw a couple of drop in beavertails on Midway. How hard can it be for me to try it my self?
Top Top