There are trigger connectors up the wazoo. I don't have a recommendation for the single best choice available, but I am rapidly going through all the ones on the market. They include the Factory 3.5lb connector, the Scherer 3.5lb Connector, the Ghost 3.5lb connector and finally the Ghost Rocket 3.5lb connector. I haven't installed the Ghost Rocket yet, but it could be the best as it incorporates a trigger stop. Currently I am using the Scherer 3.5lb connector.
You can get all of these at Lone Wolf (www.lonewolfdist.com) and Glockmeister and Topglock.
I advise getting a Glock disassembly tool for small money- 7 bucks.
The 3.5lb connector will drop the pull weight (obviously) but you will be more aware of the creep and overtravel in the trigger pull. Do a search online for "25 cent Glock trigger job" and you will get detailed instructions on disassembly as well as where to polish the internal parts. This will help with smoothing out the pull.
Don't get discouraged if it isn't magically transformed into a crisp 3lb 1911 glass rod pull. It probably won't ever be, but there are companies out there that advertise "crisp" trigger jobs on Glocks. I can't advise you as I haven't used their services. One thing I have noticed- YMMV- is the smaller frame (17 and 19) Glocks have less trigger travel- they break with less overtravel- than the bigger frame Glocks (20/21). It is overtravel that makes the sight picture "wiggle" when the striker drops.
The analogy of 10mm being "gun crack" you read above is an excellent one. I am guessing you will become fond of the G20, but you will LOVE the 10mm round. It gives you .357 magnum power with less weight, less recoil- no kidding- and a 16round capacity.
The plastic frame of the Glock seems to really help tame the recoil of the warmer 10mm loads.
Once again,
Enjoy.
Cheesebeast