User Panel
Did it work before?
All I can think of is a bad spring/missing spring in the instance it never worked. Maybe post at www.glocktalk.com it may be a common and easy thing to fix. |
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I have a G21. Take the receiver apart then reassemble. Could be the position of the slide catch spring.
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install trigger assembly install feed ramp, place pins for these, install slide stop, install pin. plastic to plastic metal to metal, remember this and you shall be fine
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install trigger assembly install feed ramp, place pins for these, install slide stop, install pin. plastic to plastic metal to metal, remember this and you shall be fine
Ok, I did this and played with the little spring/wire that holds the slide open but it still not working. Can you tell me what to adjust or look for when I take it back apart? |
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Slide release pushes down not in. Is that the problem? Some Glocks are a little harder to release the slide when new with such a small release lever.
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When you "slap it in" , are you manually releasing the slide, or expecting the forceful insertion of the mag to release the slide? It happens on some, but not all pistols.
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The slide release on a Glock isn't really a slide release according to Glock. You are supposed to rack the slide when you insert a fresh mag. Tap rack bang.
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False, false, false. The Glock manual states that you can use either method to chamber a new round. It gives you a choice. I forget what page it's on, but I will post it when I get home. |
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BSheppard
There are two things you can do to cure your problem. One is to shoot the hell out of your gun, breaking it in. The other is to buy and install an extended slide release. They are referred to as a slide stop in the manual and some take that to heart, and a little too literally. But saying that a slide stop doesn't have the dual function of slide stop and slide release is down right stupid. |
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One other thing, it looks like you have oiled the entire frame of your gun, or maybe it got to you that way. I would wash it in some Dawn or other grease cutting agent and blow it out with some compressed air to get all the water out of the nooks and crannies. Even the slightest residual oil on your slide release will cause your thumb to slip off instead of actuating the lever.
Glocks require all of about 5 small drops of oil on some of the metal parts, and that's it. |
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+1 I can't count how many times I've heard that little piece of misinformation. They call it the slide stop, I believe, but you can use it to drop the slide when reloading if you wish (a lot easier if you get the extended slide top, too.) |
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Dawn detergent? Introduce water to the firing mechanism? Talk about downright stupid. Wow. Great advice there genius.
Maybe you ought to stick to being an expert on HK53s. |
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Have you done a detail strip?
If so you may have put the slide lock spring back in the wrong place. You have to put the top pin in first. |
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none of my glocks slide release's release by pushing in
all of them require me to pull down on the release to disengage from the slide. |
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ETA one more thing. Glocks were designed to work for the Austrian Army, which they do, very well. Gaston did NOT go, ok they'll only take my gun to the arctic so it has to run dry. Glocks will run dry, but it's more beneficial in the desert where the lube will collect grit and wear the internals. If the pit was still open I'd have a field day with you. |
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There's nothing wrong with flushing it with water. How do you think guns got cleaned up to and even after WWII? Hint: two primary components were water and soap. ETA because I was downright amazed at the water thing.. No oil? Are you daft? Ever heard of metal-on-metal wear? Lubrication to prevent spalling and galling? Do you really think militaries that do artic warfare training don't use ANY lube on their weapons? Sheesh..are you 12? Do you play airsoft? Really... |
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YMMV, but rather than waste my time coming here to post this topic, I'd have done called Glock for a RTA#, boxed the Glock up and sent it back to GA, to be repaired.
They do do that don'tcha know? Mike ps - (very well from all accounts) |
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I guess others have already pointed it out, but you are a dumbass. Even current battle skills manuals issued by the Marine Corps state that your weapons will be cleaned with soapy water if CLP is not available.
I also stated to use compressed air to get all the water out of the nooks and crannies, that includes the firing mechanism. Glocks are not designed to be operated dry on a regular basis. They are just designed to operate that way if they have to. There is a big difference genius. Also, genius, you need to learn how to read. It's H53 Expert. I just got out of the Marine Corps after 1 month shy of 12 years and I was highly respected in my field as a CH-53E mechanic. That's a helicopter it's built by Sikorsky, and even if Boeing built it, you would still be an ASS.
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Quoted:
Can someone help me out with this one? When the last round is fired and the slide locks back you slap in a new full mag and the slide won't drop. The slide release just pushes in and nothing. It is all the way down and pushed into the pistol. When I take the slide off and look at the arm that holds the slide back, there is nothing keeping it from moving into the pistol. If you push down and pull back on the slide it will release the slide. Thanks in advance for all the help. FWIW: There is a guy on here (AR15.COM) called 9mmHotRod. As new as I am at this, I have found him to be the most helpful/knowledgeble on Glock issues. Maybe he will weigh in on this. I don't know how you would contact him. Learning |
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That explains a lot right there. Couldn't get into a a thinking man's outfit like the Army or the Air Force, eh? For the not too bright out there, water in your trigger mechanisim is a BAD thing. Nobody serious trains to use the slide lock button on the Glock because it isn't a reliable method under stress. Tap rack bang. Read it, learn it, live it. Of course my experience PALES in comparison to a grease monkey like you I am sure. |
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The cry of the neutered. |
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Nah, just someone that likes hanging around here watching people like you show their asses. |
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Good for you pal. Typically paper doesn't shoot back, so if the weap fails to go into battery it is no big deal. Not a lot of "do overs" in the real world though. Tap rack bang is for pros who actually play for keeps, not for dilletantes at the range.
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Your amazing and stupid. You just had four or five people in a row tell you that you're stupid and you still keep going.
Once again, you used compressed air to get the water out of your gun after you are done cleaning it. The object is not to get and keep the water there. MORON. I'm willing to bet you didn't make it into or through either one of those outfits in the first place. What were you disqualified for? Bedwetting?
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A man who is right is a majority of one.
OOOH. Let me dash off to my compressed air faucet that lets air out of the compressed air well and blow out the water that never should have been there in the first place. MORON.
US Army for 8 long years. Oh, and I was combat arms, not some wrench turner. I had a man's job. I understand there are plenty of women mechanics these days. I bet you traded lots of fashoin and makeup tips with them all day long. |
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No, but I did spend a lot of time at the Church to begin. How about you Nancy? Ever been anywhere where there was something scarier than cardboard? |
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Yep, and I've got the hole in my thigh to prove it, count about 15 total holes in my ambulances over the hears and one medic 3 feet from me catching 2 in the trauma plate. Couple that with the times I've actually had to deal with armed perps and I've had my fair share of bad shit. Banger sneaking up from the crowd and pulling a gun on you and your medic and saying " I wouldn't have shot him if I didn't want him dead" kinda puts danger in perspective. |
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Combat arms isn't an armorer. You never served. Thanks for clearing that up Mr Range Ninja.
Combat arms is Infantry, Artillery, Cav, Air Cav, and for those who like to fantasize, MPs. |
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That explains alot. When I was on recruiting duty we would trade 2 or 3 dumbasses that couldn't score a 31 on the ASVAB for one that could from the Army. Doesn't the Army(Ain't Ready to be Marines Yet) even let high school dropouts join? Sounds like you fit that catagory. |
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Ok, first some of the reponses show that the nimrods giving advice didn't read what the question was. THE F'in PISTOL RUNS WITH AMMO BEING FIRED. So the advice to clean, strip, disassemble-reassemble is just DUMB. First, Glock don't have slide releases. They have slide stops. They are used to lock back the slide, not release it. Second, you say you pushed the slide stop in............... Even if you use it as a slide release, you should be pushing it DOWN. Third, the proper way to relase the slide is to use your weak hand over the top rear of the slide, pull it back forcefully, and release your grasp on the slide as it gets to the rearmost part of it's travel. AKA "sling shotting", and when you do that you don't need to fiddle with the slide stop. Fourth, based on the descriptions of the trouble, I am guessing you are inserting an empty magazine and trying to release the slide. It don't work like that. |
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I wasn't an MP, I was 11B2P. Deal with it. Trolls like to make crap up, like you insinuating I used a Glock in the service. MPs tend to be well out of harms way. Not that you would know, neocon. Reality is what it is. Tap rack bang is the way to go. Don't use the slide stop unless like Dusty here you are trying to save the entire Star Trek convention from an invasion of evil black dots printed on paper. |
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sorry, I just finished reading the thread. I thought the question was about a malfunctioning slide stop. |
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This is straight from the Glock manual(page 8 of a Glock manual), I am sure they wouldn't print the "improper" way if it truly was improper: "4. After the last round has been fired, the slide remains open. Remove the empty magazine from the weapon by pushing the magazine catch (19). Insert a new magazine and then either push the slide stop lever (27) downwards (see photo), or pull the slide slightly backwards and allow it to spring forwards. The weapon is now again secured and ready to fire." He stated that he is having the problem after inserting the second loaded magazine. The only problem he has, is a stiff slide stop/release lever, it works either way as a stop and a release. The gun simply needs broken in or he can install an extended slide release. Problem solved. |
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I am in the school of slingshotting the slide to release it. Slingshotting is a gross motor skill, which means it's easier to do under stress. Tripping a slide stop to release the slide is a fine motor skill, and thus harder to do under stress.
I agree that it is faster if you can do it, but I prefer not to depend on fine motor skills in situations where I am adrenalined up. I think the Army, when I was in, taught using the slide stop to release the slide (on 1911A1s as well as the M9 later), but subsequent training I've taken has convinced me that I prefer slingshotting. Cheers, kk7sm ETA: It also makes it so I can use the exact same procedure whether I'm shooting my 1911A1, HP35, or Walther PPK/S. The Walther does not have an external slide stop. Thus, it simplifies my training to slingshot. |
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Many people lack the finger/thumb strenght to operate the slide release when there is a magazine inserted, and they have to push againt the magazine spring. It is more difficult to do when a "low profile" control such as on the Glock is being used, because it's difficult to get a good grip on it while pushing forcefully. |
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What alternate method do you use to eject your magazines under stress? You do realize that depressing the magazine release is using the exact same, fine motor skill, digit that you use to actuate the slide release right?
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I agree that fine motor skills are harder to use under stress. Which is exactly why I have an aftermarket extended slide release and an aftermarket extended, enlarged mag release on my carry gun.
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It's actually not. While depressing the magazine release is technically a fine motor skill, the motion used in depressing the magazine release is not identical, nor similar, to the motion used in using the slide stop to release the slide. Releasing the magazine is a squeezing motion while tripping the slide stop is a downward motion that is going to require some degree of grip on the slide stop. I don't have to grip the magazine release because I'm not trying to manipulate it in a lateral direction. I haven't seen a pistol made yet that has a slide release button on it. I'm sure someone will invent one now. If tripping the slide stop works for you, do it. I'm not responsible for your training, nor what you do under stress. Neither are you responsible for mine. I prefer to use the same techniques that work on every gun I own. Not ever gun I own has an external slide stop and even if they did, I don't really think that adding to the number of fine motor skills I have to maintain is a good thing. I'll try to keep them to a minimum. I'm not that dextrous. Cheers, kk7sm |
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The slide release on the SIG is very intuitive and easy to operate under stress. But I agree that it's best to train to slingshot, particularly when you account for the fact that you want to be proficient with multiple pistols. In a SHTF situation you don't know what you might end up with, and you fight how you train. I'm guilty of hitting the slide release from time to time, when I'm feeling lazy. |
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I guess I shouldn't tell you that I clean my Glocks with Simple Green and fully submerge the slide and all the innards in a glass bread loaf pan. |
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pull up on the slide stop and let go dose it snap back down?
Yes, it pops back down. Somehow there needs to be more pressure pushing out on the slide stop to work. none of my glocks slide release's release by pushing in all of them require me to pull down on the release to disengage from the slide. When I try to press down on the slide release, it just pushes into the pistol. I can see how by my post you thought I was pushing it in, but what I meant was, I cannot keep it from going in while I am pushing down. On my Glock it will sink into the pistol and bottom out on the frame but will not release the slide. If you have the slide open, reach in the ejection port push out on the framestop/slide release then it will drop the slide (watch the fingers on that one though). The oil you see on the frame is from me. It was CLP from my hands while cleaning the Glock and some other guns. Thanks for all the advice, It seems like I will need an extended slide stop if I want it to work correctly like the Glock manual states. I don't want to send it back to glock like someone suggested becase it is IMO easier and cheaper to buy the slide stop. I have been looking for slide stops and there are so many different kinds. Which one is preferred? Again, thanks for all the help. |
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