I have several 7-round blue 1911 magazines that are supposedly "GI".  I bought them many years ago in the brown sealed envelope, complete with gov't-looking part numbers, etc.  They have a part number and manufacturer code on the bottom.  Yesterday I was putting some away and noticed that one of them was different from the others.  The 3 have a very matte, dark finish that looks like phosphate and the other has a more dull-blue appearance.  Other differences include the base plate welds and the stampings on the bottoms:  same part number but different manufacturer codes and the one is upside down relative to the others.  This reminded me that I had heard that some (many?) mags sold as reall-deal GI were actually not.  How can I tell?  I probably bought these in the late 90's, pretty cheap (maybe $10 or less each).  They work great.  

Related question:  is there a lookup somewhere of who the actual manufacturers are based on the codes?

Thanks!

Rob

Military contract magazines can be made from different manufacturers. The M9 has several.

Older contract magazines?
ETA: Appear to be Rock Island National Match magazines, 1963.

I believe this is what the Marines are using for the M45A1 these days: Wilson Combat 47's

ETA: Google the NSN number on the magazine base.

http://www.armyproperty.com/nsn/1005-00-550-8694

More on other codes: http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=324350

Keep in mind, just because they have GI markings/codes, doesn't mean they're GI. Consider all the fake M14 GI mags out there...

If they work in your pistol I would say they are good to go, even if they are fake. I may have a couple possible genuine imitation USGI 1911 mags my self and they run great. If they do not function correctly that may be a good sign it is fake and cheaply made. Does it look poorly manufactured or is it robust in construction?

This Might Help

Right...that was exactly the point of my post.  If taken at face value, these are GI.  Was wondering if some or all are in fact knock-offs.  BTW...all the ones I have seem to work just fine.

Rob

I have a bunch of those and the base plates like to go flying along with the spring and ammo, but for a $5 mag who cares

Hey guys...thanks for those links to other thread for info.  This one was particularly awesome, Extracheeze!  I think I found the info I needed!

Here are two of the magazines side by side for comparison.  What is 99.99% a FAKE is the blued mag.  The darker phosphate one is probably the real deal.  Luckily I have 3 of the good ones and only 1 of the bad (probably got it with a pistol somewhere along the way).  I believe I have two more of the real ones still in packages (somewhere).

Note the blued "fake" on the left has witness holes in the side that are extra large and punched too high in the body.  Also note the crap quality of the spot welds at the base plates (picture lightened to better show the welds).


Here the lower mag is the fake.  Again you can see the crappy welds and overall poor fitment of the base.  The MFR code (30745
MASON-RUST CO) is well-known for having more fakes in circulation than good ones.  The upper, again, appears to be completely legit (MFR. 8R611
KASCO METAL PRODUCTS).


Here they are from the top.  Right is the fake.  Note the feed lips are different and the profile of the follower is slightly different.  Seems to be of soft, though thick, steel.


Finally, the toes.  Fake is on the left.  The drain hole is smaller and "rougher".


Rob

The 30745 mags are not exactly 'fakes'. What they are is a rejected lot that somebody bought 15 years ago and they are still being sold today. Basically they are junk. Also, while I'm not a USGI magazine expert by any means, I've never seen a faked late issue mag like these. There would simply be no percentage in setting up to fake them since this late series is not collectable or expensive. IOW, it would cost more to make them than you could sell them for. Another known good example is the 1M291 mag.

Take the followers out and grind about an 8th inch off of the tab and that will solve the base plate problem. The tabs are just a shade too long and that causes the base plates to come off.