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Posted: 7/27/2005 4:10:01 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/27/2005 4:11:39 PM EDT by Triggerman66]
The ejector in my Kimber Stainless II has a little movement after about 3K rounds. Is this something to be concerned about? Is it much trouble to install a new one and how is the front leg notched for the roll pin? What size punch ? etc
Link Posted: 7/27/2005 5:17:53 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/27/2005 5:25:55 PM EDT by hobbs5624]
If it's a carry gun, I say replace it ASAP. Some guns function fine with a loose extractor, and some do not. On a carry gun you do not want to chance it. If it's just a fun gun or a competition gun, it's really up to whether or not you feel it's necessary and if you want to spend the money. I would also say it's a fairly easy job if you know 1911s, but again, if it's a carry gun you trust your life to, let a pro do it. Just my two cents worth.

archive.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=5&f=18&t=16579
Link Posted: 7/29/2005 12:18:20 PM EDT
Looks like I can not read archived material. Have you ever used a Cylinder & Slide ejector??
Link Posted: 7/29/2005 2:06:11 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Triggerman66:
Looks like I can not read archived material. Have you ever used a Cylinder & Slide ejector??



Nope, I wasn't aware they even made one. I purchase almost all my 1911 parts from Brownells, so I've never seen it. Everything they make is top notch though. All things being equal though, I usually buy the cheapest high quality part, which for me means a King's ejector.
Link Posted: 7/29/2005 2:14:59 PM EDT
Order a new one from Brownells, I put one in my custom classic after it wore out. Ed Brown makes one that is called oversized, it has a little more length to it and ensures the ejector is whacking out the cases. It comes with the new roll pin, which I believe was a 1/16 inch punch. Can't remember right now, but you can size up the punch to the hole in the frame rail.
Very simple job to do, definately replace it.
Link Posted: 7/30/2005 11:28:32 AM EDT
I'm cutting and pasting my original post from that link, so I left out all the other useful replies. There is some real good info from Bill_Z in there, but I'll limit this to what I wrote and my diagrams. If you have an e-mail address you can send me, I can probably cut and paste the whole thread and send it to you.



Several people asked me how to fit an extended ejector. Although there are some nice tutorials online, I thought I would try my hand at doing a diagram. I'm going to assume anyone trying this understands how the ejector fits in the gun, and how to remove the old one. My focus here is to show where to cut angles for proper ejection.

So, first things first. Inspect the ejctor. Many aftermarket ejectors have oversized studs. Make sure the ejector goes into the frame without excessive resistance. If you have to hammer it in there, realize it's possible that it will be too tight to fit flush with the top of the frame. The easiest thing to do is try one leg at a time, twisting it back and forth while inserting the leg. If it is too big, take off a little material and retry.

Next, make sure there is not excessive casting flash on the bottom of the ejector, or where the legs meet the bottom of the ejector. If there is, file it away, or you will have a difficult time inserting the ejector flush.

Before you do any cuts, it should look roughly like this:



Once you can get it in all the way with little trouble, you can make the relief cut in the front leg for the ejector pin. There are two methods. One is to simply drill through the hole in the frame. The second, which is the one I prefer, is to make a witness mark, and then pull the ejector back out. Then, using a VERY small round file, file a half round relief in the front of the front ejector leg. Re-insert, and look to see if there is enough clearance. Keep trying this until there is enough clearance. It's important to stay centered up and down, without over cutting, but cutting too deep is okay. The reason I prefer this method is because you avoid raising any burrs drilling into the frame. See the red arrow in the diagram.



After this, install the ejector, and drive the pin in. Drive the pin from the right side to the left. Doing it the other way will most like bend the pin.

Next, we'll file the appropriate clearance angle. Using a file, file the front face of the ejector (see red arrow in following diagram. File this angle the same as the angle of the rear of the magwell. Make sure you put some tape on the tip of the file to avoid scratching up the magwell. This cut should not exceed 1/2 of the ejector face, and preferably closer to 1/3.



Now, looking from the top of the frame, file a 45 degree angle, as seen in the diagram. Put some tape on top of the frame to avoid scratching it, and consider using a safe sided file. This cut also need to be very shallow, as in 1/3 of the face.



When you look at the face of the ejector, it should look something like this:



When cutting these angles, make sure you take your time, and try to make sure you keep your file face squared up. If it's an extended ejector, and you make a mistake, cut it back square and start again. I hope this helps those who have IMed with questions.

Link Posted: 7/30/2005 3:33:40 PM EDT
To add to Hobbs write up (He may have already posted it),

When installing an extended lenght ejector, the correct amount of forward distance that the ejector should be over a stand length unit is the length that allows a loaded round to be cycled from the pistol. If the longer lenght ejector is left too long, then the pistol will bind up as a loaded round is cycled out of the action (bullet tip never clears the ejection port front before the ejector hits the back of the case). If your going to long load, then keep this in mind as you shorten/adjust the ejector’s length.
Link Posted: 8/8/2005 6:49:52 AM EDT
Thanks for all the detailed information. Will order one today and get busy changing it out.
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