I have a gen4 34 that i polished the internals on, put a glock (-) connector and 6# trigger spring in. The trigger itself  is nicer than my 19 and 43 as it has no mushiness and actually has very distinct stages. Some take-up, hits a very distinct and hard wall with no creep and breaks clean. The issue is once it hits the wall  its a heavy pull. On a trigger pull scale its consistently at 6.5#, is this normal? TIA

That's higher than normal, but unfortunately not unheard of. Glocks aren't exactly "precision" guns and with tolerance stacking, there can be some pretty extreme deviations in trigger wights. We have had Glocks come through our shop right at the advertised 5.5lbs out the box, and some as heavy as 8lbs+. Nature of the beast with striker fired duty guns.

Go down to 5lb striker spring (factory is 5.5). 100% reliable with all primers even with OEM striker and will take about a 6oz or so off your pull. Other than that, shooting the hell out of it will make it a little lighter eventually.

Primary is correct. I always stress no matter what you do to it a glock is not a 1911 and can never be as far as trigger pull is concerned. Accept it for what it is and overcome the somewhat heavy pull with proper technique and shooting which will get you much further ahead than more tinkering

Did you lube the various engagement surfaces?

Thanks guys, that was more or less what I was looking for. The pull itself isn't bad neither is the break as its predictable I was just a little concerned with the weight. I will try the striker spring and just shoot the hell out of it. I appreciate the feedback, I would love for it to be very light but I don't want it to get mushy thats my biggest fear. I won't tinker much with it.

what kind of lube should I use for this? CLP?

Glock triggers can certainly be quite nice. As nice as a tuned CZ or 1911? No. But with the right parts, you can take out 95% of the per travel and definitely get a 100% reliable 2.5-3lb Glock trigger.

You can speed things up a bit by shoving some Flitz around the trigger bar, putting a rubber band around the trigger hump to the front dust cover, and just pulling the trigger a few hundred times watching a football game or something. Pull a bit, push the Flitz back, pull again, push the Flitz back, repeat. Will shine up parts if you don't want to take it apart. Just hose the whole thing off with cleaner when you're done.

I use grease at the trigger bar / connector. Light synthetic worke well. Pretty much anything you'd use on a break open shotgun.

Not sure if this pertains to you but I'll pass along something I ran across and could possibly cause your higher than normal lbs trigger pull.  It is regarding the Gen 4 trigger bar, specifically the "speedbump" or "nipple" on the bar.  The gen 1,2 &3 does not have this bump and some people have had a much higher than normal (ablove 5.5) lbs on their trigger and remedied this by carefully filing that bump down.  Doing this successfully has dropped the pull to the normal 5.5 or below.  Not sure if this applies to your G34 or not.  
I found this out when researching the purchase of the smooth trigger bar for my Gen 4's.  The smooth trigger bar says it is for all gen 1,2 and 3 but not 4 and the only difference is the absense of the bump.  BTW that trigger bar does work in gen 4.  I believe it is part number gl00357 or something really close to that and Ghost inc sells / advertises it as for all generations and a must for gen 4.
What that bump actually does is it rides along the inside  of your slide so to aid in assuring the bar to come in contact with the safetly plunger for the firing pin safety.  I do not think there was ever an issue that I'm aware of, but for some reason it is on gen 4.  

The trigger bar nub did not start with Gen4 it started with the G37.3.  It does not have the impact some say it has become something of an Internet myth.  I have done trigger pull weights with different gauges.  I have measured some triggers without the nub all stock that were heavier than nubbed triggers.

If you want a good Glock trigger you have to use your Glock period end of story.  The parts have to wear together before they start feeling great.  People always ask me why my triggers feel so crisp and smooth it is because I shoot my Glocks.  My 1 year old G19 already is nearing 2500 rounds through it and it is just starting to feel as awesome as my G34 that has some unknown number of rounds through it (bought used).

Edgecrusher:
Great feedback and advice, I agree 100%  with what your saying and I also understand some peoples perspective that don't shoot as much and would like to achieve a good or even exemplary trigger pull at a near out of the box timeframe as well.
At a minimum with my Glocks that have the bump I put a small amound of lubricant on that area of the slide that comes in contact with the bump and I think that is a better answer to removing it.  Currently I think my triggers pull is like majic, but the next guy might think otherwise.  

Whatever your preferred lube is.

Personally, I use moly grease if I'm reassembling the gun after a detail strip.  For normal cleaning, a drop of synthetic motor oil works well.

Regarding lubricant as for myself the only pistol I use grease on is my Sig P220 slide as it is a steel slide to aluminum frame surface, if you use synthetic oil in lieu of CLP many people prefer Mobile 1 20/50 and that I what I have on the shelf.  As for the grease I use a red lithium high speed bearing grease with good success.  But I don't use grease on any of my glocks.  I personally wouldn't get to wrapped up with one product over another except certain oils have rust inhibitors and some don't.  Especially with glocks, I understand some people purchase Glocks new and haven't performed their first cleaning until 500 to 1000 rounds for some badge of trust and they still perform dry with a token of factory grease.    "Yay Glock!"  ( in my daughters cheer leading voice!)

 
Do you know how to use a Dremel Tool because working either by hand, or with Q-Tips is an absolute waste of time.  With standard factory components the biggest impediment to a smooth trigger pull on a Glock always comes from the area in and around the striker safety.  

I would suggest the following:  (Lightly) polish the striker safety button.  Then polish the area around the trigger bar's striker safety cam (including the, 'bump').  Next polish the top of the connector and the TB's, 'bird's head'.  

Finally, there's the tricky part.  WITHOUT TOUCHING ANY OF THE EDGES you need to polish the small square face of the TB cruciform's, 'sear tab' (the part that makes contact with the striker lug), along with the inside face of the striker lug, itself.  

BE CAREFUL NOT TO ROUND ANY OF THE EDGES - OK!  Work barehanded so that you can feel heat buildup in the metal.  Do NOT press down!  Apply only light pressure to the toolhead; and don't maintain contact for longer than 5 to 8 seconds.  If a part starts to get warm it's, probably, already polished enough.  

What I've told you should suffice to lighten that trigger pull.  There are a few other things you can do to lighten things up; but I don't think it's suitable work for a, 'garage mechanic'.  

He already clearly stated he polished all internals already, so more polishing isn't going to help his pull.

Just shoot the damn thing it will come to him.  All the polishing in the world will never mate the parts together.

I am no fan of the modern "wonder oils" in general, but I really like Lucas Extreme for this purpose.  It is "sticky" enough to stay where it needs to while doing a great job of reducing the friction between the connector and trigger bar.

Thanks guys, Im taking all your words into consideration. I will dry fire and live fire it as much as possible. May just swap to a DK or a flat trigger shoe from IDP tactical.

That's NOT the point!  The question remains:  Why didn't the OP achieve the same results that so many others have?  'Polish' does not always mean the same thing.  How a pistol is polished is, at least to my mind, more important than the mere fact that someone says, 'I polished it.'  

Among other questions the OP should be allowed to answer this one.  Otherwise everybody else is going to have to continue guessing; and the answer will remain elusive.  Merely continuing to, 'shoot the pistol in' ain't worth beans compared to (skillfully) polishing the internals correctly.  

Believe me, I would know!  Yesterday an RO who was wearing an expensive 1911 on his  hip asked to try one of my Glocks.  When he handed it back to me he commented, 'Very smooth!’  ‘You did a nice job on it.' (I thought so too; but coming from him I especially appreciated the compliment!)    



NOTE:  Oh, yeah, perhaps using one of Ghost's, 'EVO' connectors might, also, help on this one.

I have both Gen 3 and Gen 4 G34's.  The Gen 3 trigger always felt a tad bit better IMO.  I decided to tweak my 34.4 a bit and started with a Ghost Rocket and HD trigger bar spring, and a light polish.  It helped but was still a bit heavier than I wanted.  I then tried a Gen 3 trigger bar and lighter FP plunger spring.  That lightened the take-up some, but pull weight was still a little heavy.  I finally ordered a lightened striker and a 4.5lb striker spring.  It is lighter now and feels pretty good.  However there isn't much of a wall now, kinda mushy, but not horrible.  I use it for 3 gun mostly, so it works for my needs as-is.   Finding the right combo of parts and springs in order to get both the feel and weight you're looking for can be challenging.  The DK kit probably wouldn't be a bad option, I hear good things about them.  I'll probably go that route next time.

It actually is the point. The answer is very simple. Tolerance stacking. These guns are not hand fit and a wide range of tolerance is accepted from part to part. Put too many parts together that come from the extremes of those tolerances and you get a Glock with a much heavier than average trigger pull. It's not that unusual. We see them quite often.

You lack the heavy trigger reset spring .... It solves that problem.

I do have the heavy spring, when I went with the lightened striker spring is when it got somewhat mushy.  

 
No, and repeating the same incorrect opinion again won't change things.  Why make the occasional problems raised by Glock's loose tolerances sound so complex?  Ghost, Inc. has spoken about (and worked around) them for many years.  All without making Glock's loose tolerances sound so mysterious!  Don't you think you're, 'reinventing the egg'?  Tolerance stacking may, or may not, be part of the OP's problem; however, I've always found that these mechanical variations, all, occur within specific ranges; and there's a workaround for almost every one of them.  

As I've said before:  Skillfully polishing a Glock's trigger components and modifying certain of the springs is often an acceptable workaround.  So is using a connector with an improved design.  You're not the only person who's ever worked on a troublesome Glock.  I meant what I said.  I, too, know what I'm doing; and I'd appreciate it if you wouldn't deliberately misinterpret my previous comments, or attempt to take my remarks in a different direction.  You ARE missing the point; and the OP would still do well to, at least, consider both of our separate and distinct points-of-view.  

Tolerance stacking may be a part of the problem; but I doubt that it amounts to all of it.  More experience and, perhaps, a little more mechanical savvy might go further towards answering the peculiar results the OP has, so far, obtained.

Ok. ;)