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Posted: 1/19/2011 6:24:00 PM EDT
What exactly is the benefit of switching to a FLGR in a 5" 1911? Gun in question is a Kimber Warrior if it matters...Thanks
Link Posted: 1/19/2011 6:27:24 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/19/2011 6:27:44 PM EDT by RDTCU]
Looks.

And maybe a tad bit of smoothing out of the slide stroke, plus a bit more forward weight for a tad less muzzle rise.

But mostly looks...
Link Posted: 1/19/2011 6:28:20 PM EDT
really none
Link Posted: 1/19/2011 6:32:06 PM EDT
Fantastic...

I thought maybe it made assembly easier than trying to capture that F-ing spring between the plug and the short rod...or I thought it had something to do with accuracy and keeping the slide more stable...but hey whatever...
Link Posted: 1/19/2011 6:34:15 PM EDT

Originally Posted By CeeDub:
Fantastic...

I thought maybe it made assembly easier than trying to capture that F-ing spring between the plug and the short rod...or I thought it had something to do with accuracy and keeping the slide more stable...but hey whatever...

It can actually make it harder to assemble/disassemble if you use the solid guide rods. You have to press in the spring cup just like a standard 1911, except instead of a textured button, you have a knife-edged ring. Some people have to use a bushing wrench or other tool to do it.
Link Posted: 1/19/2011 6:35:27 PM EDT
*shrug* guess I'm not buyin a FLGR lol
Link Posted: 1/19/2011 8:04:35 PM EDT
A solution in search of a problem
Link Posted: 1/20/2011 5:57:15 AM EDT
Well, I took the FLGR out of my Springfield and replaced it with a standard guide and plug, and so far no issues, although truth behold I had no issue's before either.
YMMV
Rob
Link Posted: 1/20/2011 8:17:59 AM EDT
I like how FLGR's make a thump when they hit the bottom of an empty metal trash can.

That's the only use I've ever found for them.
Link Posted: 1/20/2011 8:28:33 AM EDT
A FLGRs purpose is to be a PITA, nothing else. My 1911 came with one and about a week later it was changed to a standard guide rod and plug, it took that long because of shipping
Link Posted: 1/20/2011 9:11:11 AM EDT
FLGR's have their purpose, they just aren't needed on personal protection guns like the Warrior. On a gun that will see competition shooting the FLGR can add some desired weight to the pistol.

And one-piece FLGR's are not as hap-hazard as two piece units, and can usually be taken apart without the use of a tool.
Link Posted: 1/20/2011 4:47:15 PM EDT
I have shot about 50K rounds through several different 1911s all with FLGR (1 piece) and never had any problems with reliability or assembly/disassembly. The added weight upfront aids in controlling recoil and I even put a titanium rod in 1 of them.
Link Posted: 1/20/2011 5:02:34 PM EDT
think you mean tungsten guide rod. Ti is about the same wt as Al.
Link Posted: 1/20/2011 5:05:00 PM EDT
I am putting a Wilson Combat 1 piece FLGR into a custom I am building for 2 reasons:
1. It looks cool in my opinion
2. I like the idea of a little extra weight in the front

Everything I have read suggests that there is not a large difference between a FLGR and a standard setup as far as reliability is concerned. Both work. I think the FLGR gets a bonus point for possibly limiting the chance of spring binding.

I plan to use a bushing wrench with this pistol, so I do not mind having a sharp spring cup edge. I doubt I will ever be caught in a situation where I must fix a recoil spring problem during a gunfight, but if I were, then that is where the extra weight from a FLGR would come in handy as I would likely be using my pistol as a bludgeoning device at that point.
Link Posted: 1/20/2011 5:07:06 PM EDT
No benefit on a carry or defense gun. Adds a little weight if recoil is an issue for you.
Link Posted: 1/20/2011 5:53:37 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Gregory_K:
think you mean tungsten guide rod. Ti is about the same wt as Al.


You are correct, thank you.
Link Posted: 1/27/2011 1:05:01 PM EDT
No advantage to a full length guide rod. As a matter of fact I went the other way when I had a Full Size Kimber. Took out the FLGR and went with a Short GI Guide and plug.
Link Posted: 1/27/2011 9:06:14 PM EDT

Originally Posted By glazer1972:
No advantage to a full length guide rod. As a matter of fact I went the other way when I had a Full Size Kimber. Took out the FLGR and went with a Short GI Guide and plug.

I'm thinking of doing this on my 5" Kimber, but it has an aluminum frame. What weight would I use?



Also, to add something pertinent to the OP––the FLGR that's in the Kimber in question is an alright piece, but I use the back flat of a magazine to depress the damn plunger cup thingy. It's just an irritant.
Link Posted: 1/28/2011 3:11:24 AM EDT
going from a steel full length guide rod to a std GI type your not really going to notice a weight difference.
full length guide
Tungsten 3.1 oz
Stainless Steel 2 oz.

GI ?
Link Posted: 1/28/2011 4:12:07 AM EDT
Originally Posted By RDTCU:

Originally Posted By CeeDub:
Fantastic...

I thought maybe it made assembly easier than trying to capture that F-ing spring between the plug and the short rod...or I thought it had something to do with accuracy and keeping the slide more stable...but hey whatever...

It can actually make it harder to assemble/disassemble if you use the solid guide rods. You have to press in the spring cup just like a standard 1911, except instead of a textured button, you have a knife-edged ring. Some people have to use a bushing wrench or other tool to do it.


IMHO it makes dis-assembly easier...And it looks cool too!!
Link Posted: 1/28/2011 4:16:49 AM EDT
Had one on my TRP. As many stated in the past, it's more of a pain than anything. I thankfully didn't end up having mine unscrew itself and launch itself while at the range but probably came close to that. After a range session, went to clean the gun and found the guide rod had nearly unscrewed itself. That was enough to convince me to go the GI route. I don't have to worry about that now.
Link Posted: 1/28/2011 6:51:23 AM EDT
I can't really see how people think the FLGR "looks cooler" when it's hidden inside the gun.

Personally I see them as a minor annoyance, with no real benefits outside of a couple of situations. 1) easier to switch top ends for .22 conversions, etc., and 2) pretty much required on a bull barrel gun.
Link Posted: 1/28/2011 7:44:33 AM EDT
It stops me from taking the slide off unless it needs a good cleaning.

Overall if it didn't offer more accuracy or reliability I wouldn't think it's worth the hassle of having to take it apart (Are they all two piece?).

My gun came with it, and that's what's going to stay in there though..
Link Posted: 1/28/2011 8:16:16 AM EDT
u can purchase 1 peice flgr
Link Posted: 1/28/2011 9:56:51 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Seven-Shooter:

Originally Posted By glazer1972:
No advantage to a full length guide rod. As a matter of fact I went the other way when I had a Full Size Kimber. Took out the FLGR and went with a Short GI Guide and plug.

I'm thinking of doing this on my 5" Kimber, but it has an aluminum frame. What weight would I use?


What weight of what? The spring?
Link Posted: 1/28/2011 10:10:17 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Seven-Shooter:

Originally Posted By glazer1972:
No advantage to a full length guide rod. As a matter of fact I went the other way when I had a Full Size Kimber. Took out the FLGR and went with a Short GI Guide and plug.

I'm thinking of doing this on my 5" Kimber, but it has an aluminum frame. What weight would I use?


Go to Brownells and search for Recoil Spring Guide and for Recoil Spring Plug. Pick one for your choice of finish and for the govt. model. You can reuse your old Recoil Spring.
Link Posted: 1/28/2011 10:29:34 AM EDT
recoil spring for 5" is 16 to 18.5 for std 45 cal loads
Link Posted: 1/30/2011 9:48:50 AM EDT

Originally Posted By glazer1972:
Originally Posted By Seven-Shooter:

Originally Posted By glazer1972:
No advantage to a full length guide rod. As a matter of fact I went the other way when I had a Full Size Kimber. Took out the FLGR and went with a Short GI Guide and plug.

I'm thinking of doing this on my 5" Kimber, but it has an aluminum frame. What weight would I use?


Go to Brownells and search for Recoil Spring Guide and for Recoil Spring Plug. Pick one for your choice of finish and for the govt. model. You can reuse your old Recoil Spring.
Whoops––-editing strikes again. Yes, the spring. Thanks

Also, to once again be relevant to the OP without totally derailing––-yes, as someone else mentioned, the FLGR does make swapping out for a .22 top end a little easier. Though, I think that having to use a tool (rather than one's hand) to get the knife-edged recoil plug thingy for the FLGR makes it vastly more likely to cause the "part flying across the room" syndrome.

Link Posted: 1/30/2011 2:57:37 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Seven-Shooter:

Originally Posted By glazer1972:
Originally Posted By Seven-Shooter:

Originally Posted By glazer1972:
No advantage to a full length guide rod. As a matter of fact I went the other way when I had a Full Size Kimber. Took out the FLGR and went with a Short GI Guide and plug.

I'm thinking of doing this on my 5" Kimber, but it has an aluminum frame. What weight would I use?


Go to Brownells and search for Recoil Spring Guide and for Recoil Spring Plug. Pick one for your choice of finish and for the govt. model. You can reuse your old Recoil Spring.
Whoops––-editing strikes again. Yes, the spring. Thanks

Also, to once again be relevant to the OP without totally derailing––-yes, as someone else mentioned, the FLGR does make swapping out for a .22 top end a little easier. Though, I think that having to use a tool (rather than one's hand) to get the knife-edged recoil plug thingy for the FLGR makes it vastly more likely to cause the "part flying across the room" syndrome.



To answer the question I always used 18.5# springs in my 5".
Link Posted: 1/31/2011 12:26:07 AM EDT
Originally Posted By CeeDub:
What exactly is the benefit of switching to a FLGR in a 5" 1911? Gun in question is a Kimber Warrior if it matters...Thanks


The benefit is if you sell FLGR. Otherwise, nothing IMO.
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