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4/1/2020 4:14:10 PM
4/1/2020 6:58:51 AM
Posted: 1/1/2005 8:05:50 PM EDT
I just got my Govt. Model GI from springfield and have been experiencing failure to feeds on the last round. Purchased a wilson combat magazine and the same thing happened. Tried a friends magazine and the same thing happened. All my magazines worked in his vintage 1911 flawlessly.

I replaced the stock return spring with a 13# spring and it seems to force the round deeper into the chamber than with the stock spring, but the problem still remains. This is the weapon I purchased for my upcomming CCW and am looking for a totally reliable peice. How heavy should my recoil spring be to give me some releif from last round FTFs? What is too heavy?
Link Posted: 1/1/2005 8:41:25 PM EDT
fails to feed on the last round?  Is it getting partially chambered, or what?  It sounds a lot like a problem I had a few weeks ago...extractor needed tuning--too tight.   To check, remove slide from frame and slide an empty case under the extractor.  Extractor should hold it there, and should slip in fairly easily.  If it needs adjusting, just remove it from the slide, and very slightly bend it.  I used an old belt to pad a set of vice grips to hold the back end and used my free hand to push it over.  Keep us posted--I'd like to know what the fix winds up being!
Link Posted: 1/1/2005 9:55:42 PM EDT
Link Posted: 1/2/2005 12:05:14 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/2/2005 12:06:00 AM EDT by Marksman14]

Originally Posted By ken_mays:
Are you saying your recoil spring is 13 lbs?  If so, yank that out and put in a 18 or 18.5 pounder.  That is about as heavy as you should go with a Government model.   13 # is light even for target loads.



+1  I ran an 18 in my old mil-spec and that helped out with everything.  I had FTF's on the last round until I installed a wilson/dwyer group gripper (or something like that) with a FLGR and an 18lbs recoil spring.

After that, ran like a champ.  Never had a FT*insert letter* of anykind.

Just shoot the shit out of it, and put in a 18lbs spring for starters.  After you put 700 rounds through it, let us know if there are any more problems.
Link Posted: 1/2/2005 12:23:49 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/2/2005 12:24:39 AM EDT by Lumpy196]
Link Posted: 1/2/2005 2:30:31 AM EDT
I always polish the feeding ramp and barrel on my 1911's before i even shoot them. I haven't had any problems since then.
Link Posted: 1/2/2005 7:35:18 AM EDT
50 round wally ball value pack is all I have run through it so far. I haven't tried any hollowpoints or such as I am trying to take it one step at a time.

What # recoil spring does springfield ship in their 1911s?

exact nature?

Does not feed the last round. It almost chambers completely with the newer spring I was sold, but it still needs a tap foreward to finish chambering that last round.  I needs to close about 1/4th an inch.
Link Posted: 1/2/2005 8:14:04 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/2/2005 8:19:42 AM EDT by simonsay]
What/how are you lubing your pistol?  Extractor sounds possible but would be more likely if it didn't partially chamber.  Wilsons site has some good extractor  info.  Lose the 13# unless you are shooting light target loads with a buff.  Just $.02

Added: not locking up and just needing a tap I see a lot with light springs in tight competition guns  
 
good luck
Link Posted: 1/2/2005 8:26:47 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Knife_Sniper:
50 round wally ball value pack is all I have run through it so far. I haven't tried any hollowpoints or such as I am trying to take it one step at a time.

What # recoil spring does springfield ship in their 1911s?

exact nature?

Does not feed the last round. It almost chambers completely with the newer spring I was sold, but it still needs a tap foreward to finish chambering that last round.  I needs to close about 1/4th an inch.



16 lbs is the standard for a government length slide.
Link Posted: 1/2/2005 2:31:25 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/2/2005 2:31:57 PM EDT by ED_P]
I've got the WW2 USGI Springfield 1911 and it has stovepipes about once every 50 rounds.
Thought it would go away after the break in period, but it hasn't.

Link Posted: 1/2/2005 2:47:15 PM EDT
Link Posted: 1/2/2005 3:12:54 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Lumpy196:
Definitely move up to an 18lb spring and check the bottom edge of your extractor to see if its sharp edged.  If it is, some VERY gentle rounding with a fine stone might clear things up.



Lumpy, if everyone installs 18lb springs AFTER they get the pistol why do the factorys send them with 16s?
Link Posted: 1/2/2005 4:03:13 PM EDT

Originally Posted By M4arc:

Lumpy, if everyone installs 18lb springs AFTER they get the pistol why do the factorys send them with 16s?



Same reason some of us put gas shocks on a brand new SUV/truck/Jeep. Better performance, less battering.
Link Posted: 1/2/2005 4:07:20 PM EDT

Originally Posted By BobCole:

Originally Posted By M4arc:

Lumpy, if everyone installs 18lb springs AFTER they get the pistol why do the factorys send them with 16s?



Same reason some of us put gas shocks on a brand new SUV/truck/Jeep. Better performance, less battering.



But if the 16lb springs have problems right out of the box why does SA & Kimber (there may be others) continue to ship them with 16lb springs?  
Link Posted: 1/2/2005 7:00:52 PM EDT
I had the same problem w/ my Springfield WWII replica and I sent it back to the factory.
It has worked flawlessly since I got it back.
Link Posted: 1/2/2005 7:09:54 PM EDT
Link Posted: 1/3/2005 4:11:04 PM EDT

Originally Posted By M4arc:
But if the 16lb springs have problems right out of the box why does SA & Kimber (there may be others) continue to ship them with 16lb springs?  



I didn't necessarily change mine for getting rid of a problem. I went to a higher rate spring to prevent frame battering.  YMMV.
Link Posted: 1/3/2005 7:24:21 PM EDT
As a person that had endless problems at the start with my own SA 1911, I know how frustrating it is. So I bought the video and tried to figure it out. Hope this helps you.

Here is a few things that should take care of your problems.

Grease the slide with a good grease like syntehtic auto motive great(Moile 1 or similar in the tubes from auto part stores)

First, you need a dremel and the polishing kit. The ramp feeding the bullet into the chamber needs to be polished, so does the lip leading into the chamber. Remember, polish, not taken off material here especialy on the throat.



Polish the Breach area. I use a square stone from Brownells.






Link Posted: 1/4/2005 5:30:56 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Timanator:
As a person that had endless problems at the start with my own SA 1911, I know how frustrating it is. So I bought the video and tried to figure it out. Hope this helps you.

Here is a few things that should take care of your problems.

Grease the slide with a good grease like syntehtic auto motive great(Moile 1 or similar in the tubes from auto part stores)

First, you need a dremel and the polishing kit. The ramp feeding the bullet into the chamber needs to be polished, so does the lip leading into the chamber. Remember, polish, not taken off material here especialy on the throat.

www.x-velocity.com/guns/area1.jpg

Polish the Breach area. I use a square stone from Brownells.


www.x-velocity.com/guns/area2.jpg




Being new to 1911s there is no way I'm doing that to one of mine.  If my 1911 doesn't work 100% out of the box it's going back to the factory or at least to the store where I bought it.  That said, did those modifications work?  Did it run fine after that?
Link Posted: 1/4/2005 8:28:49 AM EDT
If something doesent work I usually try and fix the problem myself so i can gain more knowledge on the weapon.
Link Posted: 1/4/2005 2:00:22 PM EDT
Hey guys. Remember to polish, not remove material. The throat needs to be smooth where the barrel meets the frame. And the breech has to alow the casing to slide along it as the slide comes forward.

I have the 4 video series from AGI on 1911's and took notes along with purchasing alot of tools.
Along with fixing this pistol (Gun smith had to take a look at ejector) I also build one from scratch.

Started with a Double Star Arms 1911 frame.




To This with some GI and brazillian parts.

Link Posted: 1/9/2005 6:08:35 PM EDT
I have been doing a lot of 1911 "research" lately since I'm in the market for one (actually I ordered a SA Milspec that I will be picking up Wed).

I have read several posts on different forums where guys have sent their SA guns back to the factory and have had NO problems since.  A couple of guys even had some "extra" mods done.  Its my understanding that when you return a gun to SA, it goes to the custom shop, not the factory.
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