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Posted: 2/25/2006 5:37:50 PM EDT
Hello, everyone. So, i am getting ready to purchase an EGW barrel bushing for my Springfield TRP to tighten up the barrel bushing to slide fit. After I measure the inside of the slide and outside of the barrel I will be ordering very soon. Should I get the angle bore or the straight bore bushing? What is the functional difference? I am a machinist (finishing degree this semester) and am clear on fitting the bushing to barrel and slide and have heard really good things about EGW barrel bushings. My TRP shoots about 2 to 21/2 inch goups at 25 yds with WWB 230gr ammo (for me anyway) and the bushing to slide fit has a noticeable amount of play and looseness to it, so I am hoping to improve groups slightly with this, but wonder if angle bore versus straight bore will have any effect on accuracy or reliability. Thanks for any input.
Link Posted: 2/25/2006 11:50:16 PM EDT
Link Posted: 2/26/2006 4:51:04 AM EDT
Is the angled part of the bushing on the inside (barrel) or outside (slide) of the part? Some 1911 manufacturers use a barrel that has a slight cone shape to it so I'd assume the tapered bushing worul work with the tapered type barrel. My target 1911 has a straight bushing for maximum surface area contact so I'd assume you would use one with a straight (i.e. non tapered) barrel.
Link Posted: 2/26/2006 6:28:05 AM EDT
I'm not sure SGT Gold, but I am betting the angled part of the bushing is in the bore of the bushing, not the outside of the bushing. My springfield has no taper to it. It looks like the angle in the bore of the bushing locks up differently than straight bore and allow the barrel more clearance to tilt up and down during cycling, but I cant tell. Actually, that is why i am asking for others experience with EGW. On a second note, does anyone use EGW's oversize slide stop? I might look at purchasing one of these as well.
Link Posted: 2/26/2006 8:22:39 AM EDT
2 to 2 1/2 inches at 25 yards? It ain't "broke". Don't "fix" it.

I'd be interested in what the smith's say here too though. I'm guessing the angle bore for reliability, but I really do not know.

But from what I've heard, if you get into modifying a 1911 to make it too much of a tack driver, reliability is likely to suffer. Sounds like you are looking for a dedicated range gun, so maybe not an issue for you.

2¢ (Maybe less...)
Link Posted: 2/26/2006 9:25:16 AM EDT
Yeah, Tbone I tend to agree with you. 2 to 2.5 in at 25yds definitely isnt broke, but this TRP manages this with a bushing to slide fit that is pathetic loose. Curiosity is killing me to see what it will do with a better fitting bushing.
Link Posted: 2/26/2006 9:36:17 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/26/2006 9:39:45 AM EDT by chromeluv]
DAMNIT. i just read it somewhere today, while I was researching barrel links and bushings.

the author actually said that if you want to tighten the accuracy that the barrel bushing link was not the place to start and advised against it..i'll try to find the link..

ETA: sorry, read alot today.

The barrel link. It's been called the Swinging Link..The Locking Link... the Falling Link...and...The Link. A lot of mystery surrounds that simple little machine...and several heated arguments have been mounted over its function.
What exactly does the link do?

The link has two jobs...Unlocking the barrel from the slide, and timing that event. That's it. It also acts as a sort of guide...to keep the barrel tracking in a fairly straight line as it rises and falls...but that's incidental.

The link isn't supposed to lock the barrel into the slide...though many pistols are out there that do just that. The vertical locking of the barrel is correctly accomplished by the bottom of the lower lug and the slidestop crosspin. If the barrel "Stands on the Link"...it's incorrectly fitted, and can eventually lead to problems. If it locks tightly on the link, the problems will show up sooner. The main issue being loosening of the press-fit pin that keeps the link in place. When the hole becomes elongated, it works to delay the timing of the unlocking and linkdown, which in turn can lead to damaged locking lugs on the barrel and in the slide. Some will even advise us to use a long link to "Tighten'er up"...but it's bad advice. Not only does it not help accuracy, it can actually hurt it, the degree of which depends on the hood fit to the slide.

Link Posted: 2/26/2006 5:44:46 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/27/2006 9:44:12 AM EDT by JSIG]
Anyone else know about the EGW barrel bushing or has used one before??
Link Posted: 2/27/2006 9:44:59 AM EDT
Link Posted: 2/27/2006 10:25:27 AM EDT
Paging Hobbs5624
Link Posted: 2/27/2006 9:06:03 PM EDT
Stand by I will have an explaination and photos done shortly.

Link Posted: 2/27/2006 9:23:42 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/27/2006 11:10:57 PM EDT by zen_grasshopper]
First allow me to apologize for bad pictures and bad drawings, but I will try to explain.

This is the EGW angle bore bushing with thick flange on my Kimber. I ordered it directly through EGW, I miked my barrel and the inside of my slide and added .001 to each dimension, and EGW sent me a bushing that fit perfectly with no smithing. Please ignore the crap on it, I just pulled it out of my holster at work and took pics.


This is the inside of the EGW bushing.


This is the same shot, but the red shows where the barrel locks up with the bushing. The blue shows the angle cut.


The angle is cut so there is no bind when the slide retracts and the barrel cams down. You get no barrel springing and you don't have to do a lot of fitting. Basically it is just a cut allows for the barrel to drop.

If this doesn't explain it, then in the next couple of days I will see what I can do in CAD to draw a diagram.

I believe that these are the best bushings on the market. YMMV. And I have EGW's oversize slide stop, and flat bottom firing pin stop, and their ignition kit (Hammer, Sear, etc) installed in my Kimber.

Link Posted: 2/28/2006 10:58:06 AM EDT
Thank you so much Zen, that is a huge help. I wont trouble for a CAD drawing, what you have provided is all I needed. I will be measuring my barrel O.D. and slide I.D. and contacting EGW for their angle bore bushing. Great to see it will eliminate springing. I will also be using their oversize slide stop. My slide stop measures .197 diameter give or take a half thousandth all across the pin. It looks like the oversize slide stop by EGW of .200 should tighten lockup a little as well. Are you happy with your EGW slide stop on your Kimber?
Link Posted: 2/28/2006 8:08:22 PM EDT
It's a great slide stop. EGW makes some great products.

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