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Posted: 9/17/2005 11:30:32 PM EDT
What are the differences between these two pistols? I want to buy a high end railed 1911, and I'm currently looking at these two.

What modifications are necessary to make them a reliable CCW piece?
Link Posted: 9/17/2005 11:35:45 PM EDT
I don't understand the warrior, putting 1K into a pistol with no front strap checkering? Just seems wierd that they'd leave that out 'specially since they claim to checker as the fram is made. Would'nt have cost them alot...... Also the warrior uses std USGI internals mostly, e.g. std extractor and lack of guide rod. On the plus side you'll get the new nite sites kimber has on the warrior, though the ones on my TLE/RL II Pro are pretty f'ing great! Also you get the KimPro finish on teh Warrior, kinda like their armor tuff.
Link Posted: 9/18/2005 4:03:23 AM EDT
Link Posted: 9/18/2005 10:07:08 AM EDT
So it seems like the warrior is a better deal than the TLE/RLII for carrying?

How much is it to get the front strap checkered, to install a mag well, and to get the MIM parts changed out?
Link Posted: 9/18/2005 10:57:59 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Jason_R:
So it seems like the warrior is a better deal than the TLE/RLII for carrying?

How much is it to get the front strap checkered, to install a mag well, and to get the MIM parts changed out?



Depends on whether you want to change all the MIM parts, or just the critical ones. Checkering depends on whther or not you refinish the gun, and I would recommend sending it to Kimber, as they have a price that cannot be beat. They charge what most smiths would without refinishing ($200 approximately), but they refinish the frame for you, plus you can say it was done at the factory.

As for the MIM parts, only you can decide which parts you want to replace. I routinely replace the slide stop and hammer for the simple reason that I've seen a few of these break prematurely, and I don't trust them. As for the other parts, to me, MIM is an issue for most of the parts, since if they break, the gun usually will operate fine. If a firing pin stop cracks, it will most likely crack only on one side, as I've never heard of one cracking all the way through. It will still work. Same goes for ejectors. I've never heard of an MIM sear, extractor, or disconnector breaking, nor a bushing, mag release or grip safety. I have seen ambi MIM safeties break, and have two myself that are broken. Single side MIM safeties are fine.

Anyway, I also routinely replace the sear, disconnector, and extractor on these guns, not becuse of breakage issues, but becuase of poor quality. I also replace the plastic mainspring housing, but the Warrior has a metal one.

If you address the minimum critical parts, I would at the very least get a new slide stop, which shoud be $20 - $25 for an after market cast one. A Wilson barstock one will cost around $50, but is indestructuble. A hammer will be $30 - $50 depending, and if you want a decent trigger pull, it should be fitted by someone who knows what they are doing. Probably the best way to figure out cost is to go to Brownells and shop the parts they have.
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