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Posted: 7/26/2011 5:29:45 PM EDT
UPDATE:
Well fuck me running. I spent the last hour filing and fitting, then BAM, it fails the click test Back story: My Kimber Warrior fell from about 5 feet directly onto the muzzle on carpet. When I picked it up, I noticed the gun was out of battery with the thumb safety engaged. The safety pulled outward and was now on the outside edge of the slide in the engaged position. The gun was jammed with one in the chamber. I dropped the mag, pointed in a safe direction and smacked the rear of the slide with the palm of my hand to knock the gun back to normal without much effort. I cleared the pistol and was able to recreate the problem by striking the muzzle with the palm of my hand. The safety still works properly, but when engaged I can pull it away from the gun. But not enough for the plunger pin to fall behind it With the safety removed from the gun, there is a little play between the two halfs and there appears to be some damage to the face where the left side engages the slide. Is it possible that there is more damage? Would this be caused by the fall? I will post pics of the safety and slide when my camera charges. 
and the slide 
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Posted: 7/26/2011 6:11:48 PM EDT
[#1]
I'd replace it with a Wilson Combat safety and see if your problem goes away.
Or, if it's still under warranty you could send it back and let Kimber replace it, but IIRC it's a MIM part and you are better off putting a WC machined fom barstock part in there. The fall might have torqued it just enough to cause a problem. MIM is not known for it's strength, I hate that so many manufacturers use that process now. |
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Posted: 7/26/2011 6:20:59 PM EDT
[#2]
I bought the pistol used and read the warranty procedure on Kimbers website. You need the original receipt
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Posted: 7/27/2011 4:17:39 AM EDT
[#3]
I'd rather see some pics of the frame and it's internals plus the safety installed but pulled out so one could see the distance its coming out, yet not enough to release the plunger detent pin.From what I can see in the picture, the thumb safety has no damage that would cause what you described. A fully engaged safety cannot be removed from the slide unless its around half way between disengaged and engaged with the hammer cocked back so pics of the frame, hammer and sear might help.
ETA: The Safety's pin doesn't look bent or broken, nor does the lug. You can do like _DR suggested and install a new safety. If your going to stick with an Ambi safey, I find this to be the most solid set-up out there: Caspian |
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Posted: 7/27/2011 5:06:48 PM EDT
[#4]
Which internal parts would damage be on if its not the safety?
I have the pistol completely torn down and can take a picture of any parts, but I am not sure what to look for Here is a pic of how far the safety can be pulled my hand Before 
After 
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Posted: 7/27/2011 7:29:11 PM EDT
[#5]
Hmmm. Its tough because from what I can see from the pictures, the lug on the safety is not bent or broken but the best bet would be to fit a new safety. I'm almost wondering if the safety was always fitted that way and the center tangs on the ambi safety where so tight when installed that it seemed okay. One drop on the muzzle loosened up the 2 halves and now the left side can move out a bit because they are no longer "locked" together.
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Posted: 7/28/2011 3:14:52 AM EDT
[#6]
Cant't see your pics.
Just about all thumb safties are MIN or Cast. The few that are machined, show a price of twice as high. OP tighten the slot on the ambis and increase the enguagement of the detent into the thumb saftey. |
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Posted: 7/28/2011 4:07:46 AM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
Cant't see your pics. Just about all thumb safties are MIN or Cast. The few that are machined, show a price of twice as high. OP tighten the slot on the ambis and increase the enguagement of the detent into the thumb saftey. Thats strange because they are big. I pinched the coupling tighter with pliers last night and put them back together and it was a little better, but not much. I made it a very tight fit. By increase the engagement of the detent, are you refering to where the plunger engages into the front of the thumb safety? |
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Posted: 7/28/2011 4:28:36 AM EDT
[#8]
Definitely looks like a MIM part to me; you can see the pot holes on the inside faces. I would do a detail strip and check the contact surface of the sear for any damage. I would then check to see if the pistol passes the click test.
I would probably replace the safety either way. When MIM 1911 parts give me any reasonable suspicion, I replace 'em with parts machined from barstock. Call me paranoid... |
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Posted: 7/28/2011 5:21:07 AM EDT
[#9]
Can you post a picture of the safety after it has popped out to beyond the slide?
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Posted: 7/28/2011 5:39:22 AM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Cant't see your pics. Just about all thumb safties are MIN or Cast. The few that are machined, show a price of twice as high. OP tighten the slot on the ambis and increase the enguagement of the detent into the thumb saftey. Thats strange because they are big. I pinched the coupling tighter with pliers last night and put them back together and it was a little better, but not much. I made it a very tight fit. By increase the engagement of the detent, are you refering to where the plunger engages into the front of the thumb safety? Yes on the detent. Some picture hosting places are blocked, my problem, not yours. eta, at least check that area of the detent with some others and see how the enguagement is. When I need to pull a saftey from a 1911 I put the safe in the safe postion and just pull it out. nothing really holds a 1911 saftey in place |
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Posted: 7/28/2011 7:04:47 AM EDT
[#11]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Cant't see your pics. Just about all thumb safties are MIN or Cast. The few that are machined, show a price of twice as high. OP tighten the slot on the ambis and increase the enguagement of the detent into the thumb saftey. Thats strange because they are big. I pinched the coupling tighter with pliers last night and put them back together and it was a little better, but not much. I made it a very tight fit. By increase the engagement of the detent, are you refering to where the plunger engages into the front of the thumb safety? Yes on the detent. Some picture hosting places are blocked, my problem, not yours. eta, at least check that area of the detent with some others and see how the enguagement is. When I need to pull a saftey from a 1911 I put the safe in the safe postion and just pull it out. nothing really holds a 1911 saftey in place With all the thumb safeties on my eleven 1911s and the one's I've seen and worked on, the lug goes slightly behind the frame in the safe and fire position keeping it in the frame which is why it needs to be in the middle to remove. I'm not sure how your pulling the thumb safety out in the up/safe position. 
Not trying to start an argument, just curious since maybe I'm reading the part in red incorrectly. |
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Posted: 7/28/2011 7:17:14 AM EDT
[#12]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Cant't see your pics. Just about all thumb safties are MIN or Cast. The few that are machined, show a price of twice as high. OP tighten the slot on the ambis and increase the enguagement of the detent into the thumb saftey. Thats strange because they are big. I pinched the coupling tighter with pliers last night and put them back together and it was a little better, but not much. I made it a very tight fit. By increase the engagement of the detent, are you refering to where the plunger engages into the front of the thumb safety? Yes on the detent. Some picture hosting places are blocked, my problem, not yours. eta, at least check that area of the detent with some others and see how the enguagement is. When I need to pull a saftey from a 1911 I put the safe in the safe postion and just pull it out. nothing really holds a 1911 saftey in place With all the thumb safeties on my eleven 1911s and the one's I've seen and worked on, the lug goes slightly behind the frame in the safe and fire position keeping it in the frame which is why it needs to be in the middle to remove. I'm not sure how your pulling the thumb safety out in the up/safe position. http://serve.mysmiley.net/confused/confused0006.gif Not trying to start an argument, just curious since maybe I'm reading the part in red incorrectly. I may be off in my desc a. it has been a while since i pulled one. |
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Posted: 7/28/2011 7:53:11 AM EDT
[#13]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Cant't see your pics. Just about all thumb safties are MIN or Cast. The few that are machined, show a price of twice as high. OP tighten the slot on the ambis and increase the enguagement of the detent into the thumb saftey. Thats strange because they are big. I pinched the coupling tighter with pliers last night and put them back together and it was a little better, but not much. I made it a very tight fit. By increase the engagement of the detent, are you refering to where the plunger engages into the front of the thumb safety? Yes on the detent. Some picture hosting places are blocked, my problem, not yours. eta, at least check that area of the detent with some others and see how the enguagement is. When I need to pull a saftey from a 1911 I put the safe in the safe postion and just pull it out. nothing really holds a 1911 saftey in place Most of the visible damage to the safety was on the detent edge. I will post a better picture of the damage when I get home. |
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Posted: 7/28/2011 7:55:44 AM EDT
[#14]
Quoted:
Can you post a picture of the safety after it has popped out to beyond the slide? As soon as I knocked it back into place the first time, I pushed the muzzle firmly with the palm of my hand and it did it again. Since then, I have been hesitant to cause more damage. The picture of the slide posted in the op show how far the slide came back under the safety |
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Posted: 7/28/2011 8:26:23 AM EDT
[#15]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Cant't see your pics. Just about all thumb safties are MIN or Cast. The few that are machined, show a price of twice as high. OP tighten the slot on the ambis and increase the enguagement of the detent into the thumb saftey. Thats strange because they are big. I pinched the coupling tighter with pliers last night and put them back together and it was a little better, but not much. I made it a very tight fit. By increase the engagement of the detent, are you refering to where the plunger engages into the front of the thumb safety? Yes on the detent. Some picture hosting places are blocked, my problem, not yours. eta, at least check that area of the detent with some others and see how the enguagement is. When I need to pull a saftey from a 1911 I put the safe in the safe postion and just pull it out. nothing really holds a 1911 saftey in place this |
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Posted: 7/28/2011 1:19:26 PM EDT
[#16]
It passes the click test posted above.
I am want to replace it with a standard safety. What parts do I need to order? Is there a possibility of any more internal damage that needs addressing? I now have pics of all internals if needed. |
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Posted: 7/28/2011 3:16:08 PM EDT
[#17]
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=16467/sku=965-600-007/Product/1911_AUTO_EXTENDED_THUMB_SAFETY
The Wilson Combat Tactical extended thumb safety is my favorite aftermarket thumb safety. |
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Posted: 7/28/2011 4:10:49 PM EDT
[#18]
Quoted:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=16467/sku=965-600-007/Product/1911_AUTO_EXTENDED_THUMB_SAFETY The Wilson Combat Tactical extended thumb safety is my favorite aftermarket thumb safety. With this safety, what hammer pin should I go with to replace the kimber ambi safety one? |
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Posted: 7/29/2011 3:03:04 AM EDT
[#19]
Std hammer pin.
If Kimbers ambi saftey uses a modified hammer pin to capture the rh saftey then you need to replace, if it does not then no need to replace. You are going to haveto do some "fitting" of the thumb saftey in order to function and or fit in your 1911. Read up and go slow, real easy to remove metal, adding metal back, not so much. |
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Posted: 7/29/2011 3:34:19 AM EDT
[#20]
When I fit a new thumb safety I assemble the pistol normally but leave out the grip safety so you can view the sear stud to sear engagement.
Like this... 
That picture came from this article and it's a pretty good read. http://www.realguns.com/archives/150.htm |
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Posted: 7/30/2011 6:28:52 AM EDT
[#21]
1.)Buy a Ed Brown big paddle safety.
2.)Cut and file the paddle to a shape that you think will be comfortable to your thumb. 3.) Send gun to a gun smith who can fit the safety correctly and refinish the gun. Minus well upgrade your sights, remove the Kimber FP safety at the same time. 4.) ?????? 5.) Profit! |
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Posted: 7/31/2011 12:17:34 PM EDT
[#22]
I am going to order this
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=199895?cm_cat=Cart&cm_pla=ProductDesc and this http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=292823?cm_cat=Cart&cm_pla=ProductDesc on thursday (pay day) and try my hand at gunsmithing 
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Posted: 7/31/2011 12:23:03 PM EDT
[#23]
Quoted:
1.)Buy a Ed Brown big paddle safety. 2.)Cut and file the paddle to a shape that you think will be comfortable to your thumb. 3.) Send gun to a gun smith who can fit the safety correctly and refinish the gun. Minus well upgrade your sights, remove the Kimber FP safety at the same time. 4.) ?????? 5.) Profit! 1. I am getting the wilson combat 2. I am getting the contour I want 3. I will do my own gun smithing. My sights kick ass and series one pistols do not have the firing pin block 4. Not sure what this is supposed to mean. 5. Possibly from a lucrative career as a gunsmith, but I will never sell my Warrior |
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Posted: 7/31/2011 3:59:38 PM EDT
[#24]
The
#4: ?????? #5: Profit! is an old joke. The WC tactical is the best shaped safety on the market. Good luck fitting the safety! It's not hard, just take your time. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 7/31/2011 6:51:52 PM EDT
[#25]
Quoted:
The WC tactical is the best shaped safety on the market. Good luck fitting the safety! It's not hard, just take your time. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile I cant wait, but I am sure I will have lots of questions |
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Posted: 8/11/2011 11:34:48 AM EDT
[#26]
well fuck me running.
I spent the last hour filing and fitting, then BAM, it fails the click test 
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Posted: 8/11/2011 12:01:22 PM EDT
[#27]
You did read this?
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=12542/GunTechdetail/Building_A_1911___Part_VI |
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Posted: 8/11/2011 12:15:39 PM EDT
[#28]
No, I didnt read that exact article but I did read others.
I will now order another and start over
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Posted: 8/11/2011 1:28:30 PM EDT
[#29]
You can spot weld it.
Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 8/11/2011 1:48:10 PM EDT
[#30]
Quoted:
You can spot weld it. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile I dont have access to a welder. A welder without a welder. What is this world coming to. Unless a welder pops into my life in the next week, i will simply order another piece and try again. |
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Posted: 8/12/2011 3:10:10 AM EDT
[#31]
If you can find a good tig welder, have him add some material back.
Do enough home gunsmithing your bound to screw up a few parts. I know I have made my share of learning events. |
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Posted: 8/12/2011 6:24:03 PM EDT
[#32]
Just went throught his a week ago. Before you buy a new one, take it to a bench vice, and lay in flat on the anvil, kinda hanging off the edge. Then whack the top of the safety lug a few times with a hammer. This in some cased with peen the lug just enough to fix the fit. Worked well on mine. Now passes click test every time I try it.
Read somewhere else if you have flat jaws in the vice you may be able to sqeeze it a bit and get the metal back. Just google " Peen 1911 thumb " and you should get some hits. |
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Posted: 8/12/2011 6:55:26 PM EDT
[#33]
Quoted: Quoted: You can spot weld it. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile I dont have access to a welder. A welder without a welder. What is this world coming to. Unless a welder pops into my life in the next week, i will simply order another piece and try again. You don't know someone who would let you borrow one just long enough for a spot weld? |
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