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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 4/23/2003 7:00:12 AM EST
I shoot a S&W 19 (.357) for IDPA. I shoot .38 special brass and get a lot of caked powder on the chamber walls. I shoot about 300 rounds per month.

Any suggestions on removal?

I tried soaking the cylinder in Shooters choice lead solvent: too messy

I also made a scraper from a 1/4" brass rod with a 45 degree sharp end: To time consuming and the tip dulls too often

I heard that Clymer makes a chamber reamer that will remove it. Does anyone know how this works and how I can get one?


Link Posted: 4/23/2003 7:01:04 AM EST
I have also tried the Lewis lead remover, but it doesn't fit tight enough
Link Posted: 4/24/2003 4:34:34 PM EST
Here's what I did to remove the fouling in my .357, my .38, and my .44 special: a stainless steel chamber brush, some Hoppe's, and lots of elbow grease. Then for the face of the cylinder I used either Flintz polish (think that's how you spell it). I also have a chamois style cloth called E-Z Brite, which is for stainless steel guns. It does a great job of cleaning off the muck from the cylinder face but don't go anywhere near your blued guns with it. Hope this helps.
Link Posted: 4/25/2003 3:44:53 AM EST
Hoppes makes a lead removal kit for around $14-$16, but you can accomplish the same thing with the coiled brass/steel brushes and some elbow grease. The copper brushes can be used to finish the job. First coat the cylinder with a pad soaked with a good bore cleaner for about 5 minutes, then use the coiled brush, followed by a pad with more bore cleaner, and finally the copper brush and finish with dry pads until you get no more black residue. There is no easy way of doing the job, but without it, after using the cheaper .38 spl rounds, you won't get a .357 magnum round fully into the chamber enough to close the cylnder. It doesn't seem to make much difference whether you shoot lead or fully jacketed metal bullets. The residue builds up with the .38 specials. At least, this is my experience.
Link Posted: 5/8/2003 9:09:57 PM EST
I have been using this slip 2000 Gas Piston Parts Cleaner by Slip 2000. It cuts the carbon on contact. It is a water based product that you let your AR bolts or cylinders soak in for just a couple of min., and the carbon wipes off. It will also remove the lead to, just takes a little longer. I reapply their lube and the next time i clean the carbon just wipes off. Go to www.slip2000.com. They send out free samples of their Lube. you should try it.
Link Posted: 5/12/2003 6:28:42 AM EST
I used a dremel tool with a buffing tip that fit the cylinder tightly. I applied some flitz polish to it and pushed the tip into the cylinder. Move it back and forth while the dremel does the work. Polishes those cylinders right up nice. Plus it makes the next time easier as the steel is polished.
Link Posted: 5/20/2003 10:01:15 PM EST
Thanks for the advice. Some guys from my IDPA club told me to wrap an old brush with a peice of a copper scour pad and scrub. It works pretty well (I can get all the crud out of the cylinder in about 5 minutes). I would like to try the slip 2000. If not for the revolver, I do have an AR-15
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