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Posted: 3/21/2006 2:18:23 AM EST
So i just bought my first handgun last month (sig226) and i was wondering how thoroughly you guys clean them. after owning an ar, i expected to have to disassemble everything down to the firing pin to clean a handgun but it seems many people just field strip and clean out the bore and slide. i'm wondering if i should be taking my sig apart further than just taking off the slide and barrel.

could you guys please let me in on how you go about cleaning your handguns. just the basics from a field strip, or much more detail?

Link Posted: 3/21/2006 2:51:44 AM EST
[Last Edit: 3/21/2006 1:29:52 PM EST by MaddMan]
after every range season i "field" strip it and do a rub down and cleaning, then every 5000 rounds i break them down as far as i can for a good cleaning. Most people i know don't do a full break down, I do it when i am bored.

I just throw my glock and USP in the dish washer with the other tupperware
Link Posted: 3/21/2006 3:01:18 AM EST
Cool. anyone know where i can get instuctions or pictures on how to fully disassemble a 226?
Link Posted: 3/21/2006 7:18:45 AM EST
[Last Edit: 3/21/2006 7:20:19 AM EST by ken_mays]
You really don't want to detail strip a SIG. The design is rather complex and can make reassembly a chore. Also, they use roll pins which can often deform after removal and reinstallation.

Field stripping is all that's necessary for routine cleaning. When it gets really filthy, remove the plastic grips, hose out the innards with a jet of brake cleaner. This will flush out all the grit and gunk and old lube. Then follow up with a spray or two of CLP to re-oil the internals.

Another good idea would be to use the Dunk-it solvent bucket to let the frame soak for a few hours to accomplish the same thing.

I would remove the firing pin every few thousand rounds and make sure the channel is clean and dry, but that's about it for the slide.

I have a set of instructional photos that may help you get a better feel for basic cleaning procedures at www.geocities.com/kemays/pistolclean.html
Link Posted: 3/21/2006 9:31:25 AM EST
[Last Edit: 3/21/2006 9:56:52 AM EST by triburst1]
I field strip and clean my GLOCK as soon as possible after shooting, but I don't sweat it if it takes a few days to get around it. I brush and swab the barrel, wipe out the inside of the slide, clean the old grease off the slide rails, brush out the mag well, and brush the breach face. As far as lube, a little Tetra grease on the slide rails, a drop of RemOil on the connector, and wipe a little oil on the outside of the barrel. That's it and it only takes 10-15 minutes.
Link Posted: 3/21/2006 9:36:57 AM EST
My Glocks get cleaned 1 or 2 times a year.
Link Posted: 3/21/2006 9:57:11 AM EST

Originally Posted By Rock7:
My Glocks get cleaned 1 or 2 times a year.

Link Posted: 3/21/2006 12:34:44 PM EST
[Last Edit: 3/21/2006 12:37:25 PM EST by Marksman14]
Same treatment for all my firearms.

I use FP10
Outers Nitro Solvent
Some kind of bore cleaner, can't think of the name right now.

All of my firearms get the same treatment...

Field strip- using nitro solvent, wipe down the slide until the patches are white, inside and out. Apply FP10 to the entire slide except for the breech face. Wipe down all excessive lube, to the point where it almost feels dry. For the extractor, I just fold over a patch, apply some nitro, and run the folded part under the extractor claw until all the junk under it is clean. Kinda tricky to do with only two hands at first, but you'll eventually develop a good technique.

For the barrel, I clean the outside with nitro solvent, then lube like I do the slide, except I wipe off slightly less of the oil. For the bore, I use jags and brushes...Put a patch on the jag, apply bore cleaner, and run it through. Work it in going back and forth. Let sit for a minute or two. Run brush through, but don't change directions while inside the bore. Put another patch/borecleaner through. Repeat until bore is clean. Keep in mind though, you only need to do this a few times. The brush will keep some of the crap on it, and re-apply it to the barrel. So the gunk you think your pulling out of your barrel may just infact be crap that the brush put back in the barrel. I usually do this 3-4 times. Run a patch of FP10 through the barrel, then run a dry patch or two.

Recoil spring/rod. I just wipe down with FP10, and wipe off the excess.

Frame- if its an alloy frame, it gets the same treatment as the slide. Wipe off everything I can get a patch or a qtip on with nitro, apply FP10, then wipe down all the excess to the point its almost dry. Leave a little more on the rails, but not much. If its a plastic frame, I wipe down everything I can get to with patches/qtips with nitro, then lube only the metal parts that I applied nitro to.

Reassemble, apply a coat of FP10 to the outside, then wipe down again and put it in the safe. Keeps em lookin good, and ready to load up and shoot.
Link Posted: 3/21/2006 1:55:38 PM EST
+1 to the above.

And with a Sig, give it a bit more oil then you would other handguns.
Link Posted: 3/21/2006 3:44:24 PM EST
I detail strip my Glock after every range trip. But that's usually just because I'm bored. A simple field strip (clean/lube slide rails, slide, barrel) will suffice 9 times out of 10.
Link Posted: 3/21/2006 3:56:15 PM EST

Originally Posted By ken_mays:
You really don't want to detail strip a SIG. The design is rather complex and can make reassembly a chore. Also, they use roll pins which can often deform after removal and reinstallation.

Field stripping is all that's necessary for routine cleaning.

Seems to sum it up perfectly, IMO.
Link Posted: 3/21/2006 4:04:05 PM EST
[Last Edit: 3/21/2006 4:04:54 PM EST by VBC]
Plain old dish soap and hot water works too if you're really in a pinch.

I find a blower and air compressor helps a lot too.

Link Posted: 3/21/2006 7:55:38 PM EST
Lots of good info here, though a bit longish and could really use some drawings! Note that this is a PDF file: www.sigarmsacademy.com/pdf/preventative_maintenance_guide.pdf

In general, I just field strip, clean, lightly oil any area that can rust, and moderately oil any area shiny from friction.

Don’t forget to disassemble and clean your mags. Be sure and replace the mag springs correctly.

When putting the recoil spring back on its guide, remember to put the tight end of the spring on first (tight is right). While not likely, putting the spring on backwards can sometimes cause malfunctions.

Check the grip screws for tightness – they’re forever coming loose.

Check the sights for tightness – they sometimes loosen up a bit.

SIG’s work best when they are a little “wet” (i.e. generously oiled).

I use a needle oiler maybe twice a year to put a very small drop of oil on hard to reach, high-friction areas (like the hammer and trigger pins).

Maybe every 2-3 years I do a complete (detail) strip. If you do this, beware of losing springs and small parts. Also know what you’re doing with the mag catch since you can really mess things up during reassembly (actually your best bet is probably just to leave it alone!).

SIG recommends that whenever the slide/breechblock roll pins (if used) are removed, they should be replaced with new ones.
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