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Durkin Tactical Franklin Armory
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11/2/2022 4:30:06 PM
Posted: 5/2/2003 8:23:13 PM EST
I have one of these babies. It's great except my only concern is hammer snag, so instead of getting a 642, I'm thinking about bobbing that hammer. I also want it bobbed in such a way that I can still cock it for single action.

Does anyone know who can do this for me?


Link Posted: 5/3/2003 4:37:55 PM EST
I'd have some concerns wit bobbing the hammer as it will reduce the weight which in turn affects the inertia & amount of energy the hammer makes upon the primer. IOW, you run a risk of misfires with the lighter hammer.

There's a company that makes hammer shrouds for Colts & S&Ws, I'd try that first.

My .o2
Link Posted: 5/3/2003 9:02:24 PM EST
I've had two of them bobbed by one of our dep't S&W armorers; a model 60 and a model 36.  He basically just ground them down smooth.  It makes it difficult to cock for single-action shots but it slips in and out of a pocket much easier.
I have never had any malfunctions in these guns due to less hammer weight.  The only problem that I've had is that the guns slip out of a holster very easily since the hammer is gone and the holster straps don't have anything good to grab on to for retention.
Link Posted: 5/4/2003 4:02:56 AM EST
The J frame S&W's usually have plenty enough spring strength to have the hammer spur bobbed without having ignition problems...unless some clown has done a home-boy action job and either cut springs or replaced them with lighter aftermarket ones. Any decent gunsmith or armorer can do this for you. If you decide to try it yourself, the hammer should be removed from the gun first.

I have owned several that I cut the spur on and have done it for many others. These are close range "Oh Shit!" guns (yes, I too, have shot them at 50yd. and know they are accurate, but that's not what they are "for") and the last thing you want is for it to go "click" instead fo "bang". Always leave full spring tension on these little guns.

Once cut, the gun is really a DA-only proposition since the way to cock the bobbed hammer is to "just" start the trigger squeeze slowly and use the tip of the thumb to then pull the top of the hammer back to the full cock position. This is something you must practice and even then it is not 100% reliable. Holsters that secure the gun by the trigger guard will work fine with the bobbed hammers.

My preference is for the 40 / 640 / 340 models as this is not an issue and the web of the hand can ride a little higher on the backstrap.
Link Posted: 5/4/2003 4:30:58 AM EST
You can do it yourself with a file and a hacksaw. If your hammer is case hardened, you need to break it with a file. I've done a S&W Model 29 and never had any trouble with it. I cut the trigger at the same time. Once you learn to shoot DAO I think you'll find you become a better revolver shooter and wont go back to single action.
Link Posted: 5/5/2003 8:55:18 AM EST
Hey clean cut,  I've got the 340PD, its the same one you have except mine has the concealed hammer.  If you want to join Citabria, SC-texas, 308wood and I at the range sometime, I'd be happy to let you shoot it.  That way you can be sure you will happy shooting your in double action only.
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