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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 3/30/2006 9:45:52 PM EST
Anybody ever try one of these from WC? Is it easy for someone with little to no fabricating expirience to use? Any feedback on the fitting jig at the bootom of the link would be greatly appreciated. This would be used for a Springfield milspec. Would I be better off tryin to find a good smith in the area? Thanks again guys.
Link Posted: 3/31/2006 2:12:59 AM EST
I used a ed brown fitting jig. All you do is file to the jig. The jig is way harder than the file. Then I used a dremel to blend the thumb saftey, and frame to the ed brown high rid grip saftey. Ed grip saftey do drop the gun lower in the hand.

It can be done and is rather simple.
Link Posted: 3/31/2006 5:29:28 AM EST
Squid1, I've used that exact jog, plus another that Brownells used to sell for the same radius. You can't use an Ed Brown .250" radius jig for a Wilson Combat beavertail. There are 3 common beavertail radius cuts. They are the .250" constant radius, the .220" constant radius, and the Wilson/Clark compound radius.

Wilson Combat and the older Clark beavertail, as well as Caspian, Safari Arms, and some Kings, all have a radius that is larger at the bottom of the cut than at the top. A round jig will not account for this.

Compound radius beavertails are much harder to get a nice hariline fit, but it can be done. Using the jig will usually result in a generous gap between the frame and beavertail, similar in appearance to a factory Springfield Armory loaded model. It is quite satisfactory for all but the most picky. I'm a little anal, so when I fit one, I use modeling clay, push it onto the side of the beavertail, and then carefully remove it, scribing it's outline on the frame prior to cutting. At that point, it's a lot of trial and error fitting, and is quite time consuming.

For Springfield Mil-Specs, and other SA guns, the top of the frame tangs are cut lower than most other 1911s, and using a .250 radius beavertail will result in the top of the beavertail sitting higher than the top of the frame. It's ugly, but does not impede function.

Smith and Alexander make the .220" radius beavertail to account for this, and there will not be a substantial difference in level when you install this one. Wilson, with it's compound radius, will also work well with the SA. Though they look different, they both ride about as high as the other. Wilson looks to be a higher ride due to the shape of the top, but they are really the same. On e is just harder to install than the other. I personally like the way the Wilson looks, but the S&A installs much easier, and they have a .220" round jig that is very easy to use.
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