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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 6/18/2003 9:19:35 PM EST
I have a S&W model 19 that I beleive needs an oversized hand. It fails to lock up on at least 3 chambers if I cock it slowly. A slight tap or nudge and it will click into place. I've also heard that you can peen the (things?) on the extractor star, but would rather not do that if I dont have to. Is there anything else that might cause this. I can't tell if the ejector rod is perfectly straight. Thanks
Link Posted: 6/19/2003 4:46:48 AM EST
there may be other little probs in there besides the hand. if my Smiths get that way, it is back to the experts, the S&W ppl. have found them to be no more expensive than good gunsmiths, and, they do have parts on hand.

Link Posted: 6/19/2003 8:51:43 AM EST
One of the Gunsmith's Rules of Thumb" is ,"Be 100% SURE what the problem is before altering ANYTHING".

Most gunsmith "problem" guns are ones somebody attempted to fix something on, but "fixed" the wrong thing.

Before I did expensive damage to my gun, I'd have a qualified 'smith look at it, and diagnose the problem.

In your case, the problem could be one of half a dozen things, OR a combination of several.

I can tell you that the LAST thing you need is to peen the lugs on the extactor.
Link Posted: 6/19/2003 10:31:55 AM EST
Thats definately good advice, but I am a poor college student, and can't afford a $100 trip to a Gunsmith. I can't even find one in my area that will work on a Smith & Wesson, most of them do rifles and 1911's. I figured that if I replace the ejector rod and pin, and fit an oversized hand, I will not need to modify any of the existing parts, and the replacement parts will cost me $40. I am not sure how to correctly fit the oversized hand though
I would never peen the extractor, I've just heard you can do that.
Link Posted: 6/19/2003 10:40:52 AM EST
If I was going to send it off, I would send it to S&W. Is there anyway to get a quote before sending the gun?
Link Posted: 6/19/2003 1:41:21 PM EST
[Last Edit: 6/19/2003 1:44:55 PM EST by faris]
You've got two ways to go here.

1. Send it to S&W. They'll either send you an estimate BEFORE doing any repairs, or there's always a chance they'll just fix it for free. (It happens).

2. Buy a copy of Jerry Kuhnhausen's book "Gunsmithing the S&W Revolvers". This will at least let you diagnose the problem, and give you an idea if you want to tackle it yourself.

If you start replacing parts like the rod, pin, and hand, you run the risk of masking the real problem, making it that much harder to fix.

Also, you will likely shell out $40.00, and still not fix the problem, wasting the money.

I'm not trying to rain on your parade, but I saw a lot of this. People trying to save a few bucks buy some parts, and usually make the problem worse, costing even more money, and sometimes doing permanent damage to the gun.
Link Posted: 6/19/2003 1:57:30 PM EST
The hand is usually heated and bent as a fix could need a new star as well.
Link Posted: 6/27/2003 10:24:34 AM EST
WoW! Sometimes ignorance really is bliss.
I've been working on S&W revolvers for about 35
years and never knew it was so terribly complicated. Cylinders that won't "carry-up"
need a new hand- Smith makes several sizes that
,in steps, go up in size to allow for wear. the hardest part is in determining what size to use. Go with first oversize, also order second oversize if you can afford it. I'm assuming
you already know how to remove the old one
and replace with the new-it's not rocket science
If you don't, then get the book mentioned
(Many vendors in SGN or Gun List have same)
and go for it-it's just not that difficult.
If we were all scared to try, nothing would ever
get accomplished, and the experience will serve you well. Read first then GO!
Link Posted: 6/27/2003 8:34:29 PM EST
Thanks, Seahunt
I have already taken the hand out before. I figured that I would not be modifying any of the existing parts, and that a new hand could only improve things. If it didn't, I could always put the old hand back and be back where I started.

I was just wondering what I would need to do to fit a new hand, or if it was just a drop in thing. I would think that some light stoning would be all that is required
Link Posted: 6/28/2003 10:46:22 AM EST
Correct. Light hand stoning to remove burrs is about it. No special tools unless you wish to make one to remove the recoil slide spring.
Lifting the leg of the spring inside the hand
spring control slot while refitting the hand itself can be frustrating but try a narrow blade
screwdriver and push up the spring leg and then insert hand so spring leg bears on stud.
Crossing your eyes and sticking out your tongue seems to help too.Regards, Chuck Hunt
Link Posted: 6/28/2003 10:24:18 PM EST
Thanks Seahunt,
I have already had the hand out, so I'm going to try an oversized hand. Thanks for the advice.
Link Posted: 6/29/2003 7:57:12 PM EST
I feel your pain man, I have over size balls, but I use my dick to stretch things out.
Link Posted: 7/14/2003 4:07:14 PM EST
[Last Edit: 7/14/2003 4:08:22 PM EST by Round_Gun_Shooter]
When you order a new hand, check the thickness of thje existing with a micrometer. Tell the cust service rep what the thickness is so they can send one that is a little over size.

Before you go through all that, clean the yoke where the cylinder rides. Put some Break free on the barrel of the yoke, spin the cylinder, remove the yoke, wipe off the barrel of the yoke and repeat a few times until it stays clean. This removes all the gum from inside the gas ring area of the yoke. If you still have DCU, replace the hand.

Only way to fit the hand to the extractor is get one close or learn to cut the ratchets yourself.

Send it to S&W and they will probably do it under warranty. Call the 800 number and ask.


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