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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 1/5/2006 8:39:39 PM EST
I have a model 342 Airlite that I carry alot. After around 200 shots the cylinder wouldn't spin every time upon trigger pull. The hammer would trip every time. Customer service was fine, they fixed it a timely manner. I can't find the work order and I can't remember what they replaced. Since it's been retuned, i've only shot 50 rounds to check for function. I'm afraid to shoot it any more if it's only got "150" rounds left in it before it breaks. I was under the impression these were reliable. I was wondering if anyone else had any issues with this, or any other model of S&W revolver, or did I just happen to get a defective part?
Link Posted: 1/5/2006 8:41:21 PM EST
[Last Edit: 1/5/2006 8:42:04 PM EST by twonami]
no problems with my 642.
Link Posted: 1/6/2006 12:50:22 AM EST
I would shoot the hell out of it to make sure it's NOT gonna screw up again. If it does S&W should make it right. I have never had a problem out of an S&W revolver, but I have from Colt. I bought an older 4" blue Python at a gun show, it was marked used, but was like new in the original box. Took it to the range. After 100+/- rounds, it jumped time so bad that it wouldnt even fire. Firing pin would hit where the primer and case met. Off to Colt it went. Fully expecting to pay for repair as I had included in the note with the gun that it had been bought used at a show, I was pleasantly surprised when it was returned less than two weeks later at no charge. Wanting to make sure it was not going to do it again, off to the range it went. After 300 rounds it was going strong. Being very happy and really enjoying how accurate it was, I continued shooting. At the 350 round mark, I was very surprised to see the groups start printing way left of point of aim. Taking a close look, it was easy to see the front sight leaning slightly to the right. I opened the cylinder and unscrewed the barrel completly off the frame ( I guess it thought it was a Dan Wesson he
Link Posted: 1/6/2006 2:08:22 AM EST
I own a model, 34,36,19,18,60 and 29. Been shooting them for 25 years, Never had an issue if the guns were reasonably clean,
Link Posted: 1/6/2006 4:59:57 PM EST
As long as the ammo was ok, all of my Smiths have been more reliable than sunrise. Are you sure your ammo isn't jumping its crimp & the bullet nose sticks out the front of the cylinder, binding it, keeping it from turning?

Buy a box of factory made +P, 50rds or so, go to the range & shoot all 50rds at one session. If there's a bug in it, +P should bring it out. Cor-Bon most certainly will do the trick, IMO.

OTOH, every gun I've lost confidence in, I've traded it off. Nothing's worse than a gun you can't say will go "bang" when you want/need it to.
Link Posted: 1/6/2006 5:07:04 PM EST
[Last Edit: 1/6/2006 5:07:33 PM EST by Colt_SBR]
I carried a S&W Mod 64 and a Mod 37 for 7 years on duty, every day and trusted my and my partner's life with them.

You can trust your life to it. Shoot the Hell out of it. It'll be fine.


Link Posted: 1/6/2006 5:21:36 PM EST
I don't know how i blew up my IM replay. This is the rest of it and I hope you find it.
Here is what to look for, after making sure the revolver is unloaded. (1) excessive cylynder gap. a bussiness card can be sliped between the barrel and cylinder of a normal pistol. If two fit is is marginal, if three fit it is excessive. (Side note: in extreemly worn revolvers there will be flame cutting in the top strap (underside of the top of the frame) above the barrel/cylinder strap. Etching is OK but a deep cut is cause to pass on buying) (2) Pitted firing pin. Inspect the face of the firing pin for damage or pitting. Look between the rear of the cylinder and the frame with the trigger pulled all the way to the rear. There should be no day light between the tip of the firing pin and the cylinder. That is to say the firing pin is actually in the chamber a bit. There is a bit of differance as to how deep it should go. On older guns the cylinders were counter sunk for the case rim on new ones there is no counter sunk surface. What you are looking for is the ability of the rounded face of the firing pin to reach the primer. If you can simply test fire the gun. Pitted firing pins are cheep and replaceable but a bad one is a reason to lower the price by $30.00 or so. With the cylinder open inspect the firing pin bushing. This is the inset round device were the firing pin comes throgh the frame. It should be flush with the face of the recoil shield, (part of the frame facing the rear of the cylinder) and the firing pin hole should not be struck but the firing pin. Look for burrs. Open the cylinder and push the cylinder release latch to the rear, (it is spring loaded and pushing it back puts it in the normal position when the cylinder is closed) this will allow you to dry fire the revolver with the cylinder open. You can watch the firing pin come through the bushing. (3) Worn out hand, While watching the firing pin come through the bushing you can also watch the hand rise and fall. The hand is the small device that pushes up on the star and rotates the cylinder. The contact surfaces of the star and hand should be crisp and sharp. They are not allways square but they should match and not be too rounded. This area does not often show excessive wear but I have seen some that were dry fired many thousands of times to the point that they were not reliable revolvers. (4) Sprung crane. The crane is the part that appears to be part of the frame when the cylinder is closed but swings out. The ejector rod runs through it to support the cylinder. Some shooter snap their wrist to close the cylinder. You may have seen this in the movies. This will spring the crane. To check for a sprung crane simply close the cylinder and (we are still unloaded....right) point the gun at your face and inspect the line where the crane meets the frame. You should see a fine, well fitted seam where the pieces meet. With a sprung crane there will be a noticable gap that widens the closer it gets to the top. A piece of thin paper should not fit in the crack. The tighter the better. Fixing a sprung crane is a deal killer for me. Accuracy is affected and really good repair jobs may be expensive. (5) Bad timing really requires gauges to test. Bad timing is when the cylinders do not line up with the bore. In mild cases there will be "spitting" which is small shavings of the bullet coming out the cylinder/ barrel gap, (another good reason for shooting glasses). Often these are irritating but, suprisingly, have little effect on accuracy, (my mod 29 44 mag does this with lead bullets). Actually test firing the gun is the best way to check for bad timing. No revolver is perfectly alligned with the barrel on every chamber. In fact some of the old target shooters would shoot groups using the same chamber for the whole group. They would then mark their most accurate chamber. Bad timing can be caused by a whorn hand, whorn pawl, sprung crane or a combination or all three, Shoot the revolver if you can. If you can not shoot it then check the cylinder for looseness. There should be very little fore and aft play in the cylinder, You should be feel a little by holding the grip and, using your thumb and fore finger to grip the cylinder try to move it back and forth along the axis of the chambers. There should also be a little play in the rotation of the cylinder with the gun in the normal condition of hammer down and cylinder closed. There should be a little less play when the hammer is cocked.
Also check the functioning of the trigger return spring. The trigger should return rapidly keeping pressure on your finger as you release it after firing. Look under the extractor star. Push the extractor rod in as if ejecting the shell and look between the star and the rear of the cylinder. This area is often neglected in cleaning and rust may be found there. The only revolver "jams" I have seen is when powder residue built up under the extractor star to the point that it caused the bottem of the ammo cases to be rubed aginst the recoil shield.
The 19 is an excellent choice for a novice shooter. No safeties to forget. Ammo from mild 38 spl wadcutters to hotdamn 357 loads mean you can find any shooters comfort level and accuracy. Over the years I have given away three 19s, one to a nephew, one to a friend and one to my antigun father in law who got real interested after one of his friends was killed by a man who carjacked his motor home. I had my father in law hitting paper plates at 40 feet in one box of ammo. He actually enjoyed himself and got another anti gun buddy to go shooting with him. His buddy then bought a Mod 66 S&W. I hope this helps and you that you can wade through my spelling and typos. I got to run and don't have time to proof read. Good luck with the 19 I hope the lady likes it.
Link Posted: 1/6/2006 6:50:07 PM EST
never had an issue.
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