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9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 9/24/2005 1:43:13 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/25/2005 2:30:36 AM EDT by effinNewGuy]
Sweeney's book (The 1911) states that the trigger has absolutely nothing to do with lightening the trigger pull. Work has to be done on the sear and hammer (i.e. stoning and polishing). Makes sense. However I have read that a lighter MSH spring does wonders for the trigger. (The only advantage I can think of is when you manually cock the hammer. But why would one do that? Unless they are dry firing...) Do they actually mean to say this in conjunction with the sear/hammer work? Can someone enlighten me?

And while we're on the subject of springs, what weight spring would you recommend on an all around daily carry, self-defense, range pistol? (Heavier weight slams the slide home harder BUT tames the recoil right? Vice-versa for a lighter weight spring. Should I go for the 20# or an 18.5# spring?)

Ringraziamenti molto per l'aiuto!
Link Posted: 9/24/2005 4:51:50 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/24/2005 7:26:04 AM EDT by SGB]
Link Posted: 9/24/2005 10:27:51 AM EDT

Originally Posted By effinNewGuy:
Sweeney's book (The 1911) states that the trigger has absolutely nothing to do with lightening the trigger pull.

Hate to point out this out, but the trigger weight does come into effect along the way when lighting the trigger break weight.

Sear and hammer engagement, compounded by the main spring and sear/disco spring tensions will determine the trigger break weight. But when going light, you have to remember that the trigger is going to want to dance with the frame during slide reward impact (delayed), and if the trigger is too heavy, it's mass is going to jolt backwards and release the hammer all by it's self (read tag the sear and release the hammer).

Simple put, in order to get a trigger break weight tension down light (2 lb mark), if you are running a stock trigger (read standard heavy unit), the pistol will be a runaway until you let off on the grip safety to block the trigger/transfer bar.

As for the recoils spring, this is an ammo specific related question, and you need to base the recoil spring tension weight on the ammo that is being used in the pistol. Ideally, you want the spent cases to eject around the 5-7 foot distances. Any lighter and slide is bashing the frame too hard. Any heavier and you are just creating more perceived recoil from the pistol. Simple put, you need to get the ammo that you will be shooting, and figure out what recoil spring is needed for the pistol/ammo combo.
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