The trigger pin retainer (#63) is not in the pin slot, and the reason that the pin is walking.

216.243.198.184/aspx/ns/Schematics/SchemMFg.aspx?schemid=13

I'll let the trigger retaining spring go for now, but best guess is that the the sear spring is not in the hammer pin groove and allowing the pin to walk.

www.wiztechs.com/knightsrealm/guns/22-45/instructions.htm

No worries!!!!!

Worst case is you have to send the pistol to Ruger, and with there customer service as good as it is, you end up with a new pistol or frame for free.

Too bad you don't live closer,

It's a quick fix by just flipping and re-grooving the hammer pin with a new retaining slot off set on the other side of the pin to wedge the hammer bushing tight against the frame when the pin is being retained by the sear spring (if needed, just make a new pin is your afraid that the double slotted pin is going to snap).
Note: before doing this, lap the hammer bushing into the frame to make sure it is not being held out of the pocket by a bur, and is sitting in solid in the/a pocket. It appears that there is still enough meat in the frame plastic to pull this off, and since the hammer rides on the bushing, the pin being wedged (it wedging the bushing tight against the frame) is not going to be a problem.

P.S. Now you can see why I don't let anyone one work on my firearms, certified or not. It’s bad enough that most of just parts changers, but when they start modifying the wrong parts to make something fit (read it didn’t need it in the first place since the FCG already was in the pistol), it gets even worse.  With any luck, you paid for the service with a CC (read I don’t even use cash any more for anything since my debt type credit card leaves a paper trail if I have to take something back), and if needed, you can pin the smith to the wall to having him send the pistol back to Ruger on his own dime to fix his “correction”.

Also, WTF are you taking a firearm apart without knowing how to put it back together.  Next time you or someone else get a wild hair and has to figure out just how the clock works, post either here or over in trouble shooting for directions.  This place is littered with guys that can detail strip and rebuild any firearm in their sleep, and even have the tricks to putting the parts back in, say a LDA, with only two hands and common tools (a Q-tips to make a starter pins is the trick on the trigger and trigger spring as a one piece install on that rubik's cube ).

Hate to say it, but Ruger will want to whole pistol to complete the frame swap.  It's a lawyer kind of thing, and when the firearm leaves their shop, it function 100% as the day it was produced.

This is kind of a good thing from a warranty stand point since they will go through ever part to confirm function, but if you ever do send a firearm to them with non factory parts, kiss them good by since they will pull them and reinstall factory parts to get the firearm back to factory production conditions.

Trust me, there are some parts that they will not sell to the public, and a frame is one of them without them doing the swap out.  I guess at this point, you are just washing your hands of the smith, and going to eat the cost of the factory repair?  Myself, I would go down to his shop and demand a new replace pistol, and let him figure out what to the do with the screwed up pistol/frame on his own time after the fact.

Quoted: Well $45 for shipping to Ruger, $35 for the new part, $25 for labor and $35 I believe for return shipping = $140 I think I will sell what parts I have for what I can get and get a different pistol. Thanks for your help though it was greatly apriciated. Maybe I will get a CZ cadet.

Before you throw in the towel, take the pistol back down to the smith and have him fix it.

At best on a screwed up pistol, your going to get a C note or just above, and if you willing to let if go for that, I'll take it.

Quoted: I was thinking last night and I am going to ball gauge the hole and see if I can borrow a reamer from work and make an insert out of the bushing I have. I think I can take it to work and make it thin enough.

Now you got the idea, as long as there is a way, there is still hope!!!!!!

As for the reamer, you’re over thinking the problem.  You just need to seat the hammer bushing into the receiver pocket flush/firm.   Get a washer the same size as the OD of the hammer bushing, then tap the inside of the washer hole so you can seat the washer into the bushing recess on the frame, and insert a threaded rod (just smaller than the hammer pin, and depending on the size of the rod, you can make a slip bushing to center the rod in the pin hole, and prevent the spinning rod from over large'g the pin hole) that will mate with the threaded washer through the pin hole to spin/pull on the washer and let it flush out/make the bushing pocket flat.  Heat is going to work on your side, and as the spinning washer flushes out the bushing pocket, it will flow the frame plastic up the edges to rebuild the outer walls of the pocket.

From there, you just need to flip the hammer pin (or make a new one) and grove it to hold the hammer bushing in the slightly deeper pocket correctly.

Solution brought to by WECSOG Inc, a subsidiary of the Acme Corp. Group.