Too bad you don't live closer,
It's a quick fix by just flipping and re-grooving the hammer pin with a new retaining slot off set on the other side of the pin to wedge the hammer bushing tight against the frame when the pin is being retained by the sear spring (if needed, just make a new pin is your afraid that the double slotted pin is going to snap).
Note: before doing this, lap the hammer bushing into the frame to make sure it is not being held out of the pocket by a bur, and is sitting in solid in the/a pocket. It appears that there is still enough meat in the frame plastic to pull this off, and since the hammer rides on the bushing, the pin being wedged (it wedging the bushing tight against the frame) is not going to be a problem.
P.S. Now you can see why I don't let anyone one work on my firearms, certified or not. It’s bad enough that most of just parts changers, but when they start modifying the wrong parts to make something fit (read it didn’t need it in the first place since the FCG already was in the pistol), it gets even worse. With any luck, you paid for the service with a CC (read I don’t even use cash any more for anything since my debt type credit card leaves a paper trail if I have to take something back), and if needed, you can pin the smith to the wall to having him send the pistol back to Ruger on his own dime to fix his “correction”.
Also, WTF are you taking a firearm apart without knowing how to put it back together. Next time you or someone else get a wild hair and has to figure out just how the clock works, post either here or over in trouble shooting for directions. This place is littered with guys that can detail strip and rebuild any firearm in their sleep, and even have the tricks to putting the parts back in, say a LDA, with only two hands and common tools (a Q-tips to make a starter pins is the trick on the trigger and trigger spring as a one piece install on that rubik's cube ).