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11/22/2017 10:05:29 PM
Posted: 9/22/2004 9:00:57 AM EST
If I want to reduce the trigger pull on my SA 1911 G.I. 45, can I accomplish that by changing the mainspring?
Link Posted: 9/22/2004 12:29:24 PM EST
Maybe a tiny bit, but lots more to it than that. Spend the money to get a pro to put a good, 4-5 lb. trigger...cleam with little to no creep...on it and I guarantee you will be happy.
Link Posted: 9/22/2004 12:37:47 PM EST
Unless you are a seriously qualified, greatly expereinced 1911-smith, I would not recommend that you do anything to the fire control system, period.
Link Posted: 9/22/2004 1:09:29 PM EST
Easiest way is to install a matched Sear and hammer combo from Brownells. It will give you an improved trigger pull with little creeep.
Link Posted: 9/22/2004 1:48:22 PM EST

Originally Posted By Timanator:
Easiest way is to install a matched Sear and hammer combo from Brownells. It will give you an improved trigger pull with little creeep.



i did that and it accomplished jack.

gotta go sear/hammer/TRIGGER combo

and you still may have to pay someone. it's an art.
Link Posted: 9/22/2004 2:30:52 PM EST

Originally Posted By druncuncas:

Originally Posted By Timanator:
Easiest way is to install a matched Sear and hammer combo from Brownells. It will give you an improved trigger pull with little creeep.



i did that and it accomplished jack.

gotta go sear/hammer/TRIGGER combo

and you still may have to pay someone. it's an art.



It is indeed, an art.

However, us mere mortals can do it too! However, I would not reccommend it unless you have some ability working on firearms. I have a pair of 1911's that I have customized using Brownell's and have achieved fantastic results!

I am (one of these days) gonna post a list of drop in parts that will give you a nice 3 lb. trigger from a Series 70 style 1911 pistol.

***Bullcrud- Here's the list with Brownell's part numbers!!***
Exercise due caution when assembling your pistol, your life may depend on it!!

207-800-120 MCCORMICK SERIES 70 SEAR $11.95

207-870-110 87011 MCCORMICK SERIES 70 HAMMER $24.95

487-205-001 KING'S #205/70 BLUED GRIP SAFETY $29.95

654-252-000 #252 NOWLIN 19.5# MAINSPRING $1.89

654-253-000 #253 NOWLIN SEAR SPRING $4.59

965-001-045 Wilson Combat #1 COMPETITION MATCH .45 TRIGGER $15.95

Link Posted: 9/22/2004 2:32:50 PM EST

Originally Posted By Broker:
If I want to reduce the trigger pull on my SA 1911 G.I. 45, can I accomplish that by changing the mainspring?



There are MANY ways to accomplish this, but changing 1 part isn't one of them.

You can change springs all day long, but your best bet is to start by getting rid of any MIM parts in the firing system, replace them with tool-steel parts that can handle being honed/adjusted/ground like they need to be.

Get a good smith to do it for ya. It's worth the money, if this is a carry gun.

If it's a range-beater, try it yourself. It's amazing how much there is to learn about the workings of a 1911.
Link Posted: 9/22/2004 2:41:10 PM EST

Originally Posted By arowneragain:
Get a good smith to do it for ya. It's worth the money, if this is a carry gun.

If it's a range-beater, try it yourself. It's amazing how much there is to learn about the workings of a 1911.



[Division V.P. Bill Lumberg]I'm gonna have to go ahead, and, um, disagree with you...[/LUMBERG!?!?!?!]

There is nothing wrong with prepping a carry gun yourself.

You simply MUST verify safety and performance by running several hundred rounds of your carry ammo thru ANY weapon you are gonna depend on. No matter who mod'ed it, even NIB guns must be "broke in" and all wrinkles worked out before carry/duty use. This is a must!!
Link Posted: 9/22/2004 4:20:23 PM EST

Originally Posted By arowneragain:

Originally Posted By Broker:
If I want to reduce the trigger pull on my SA 1911 G.I. 45, can I accomplish that by changing the mainspring?



There are MANY ways to accomplish this, but changing 1 part isn't one of them.

You can change springs all day long, but your best bet is to start by getting rid of any MIM parts in the firing system, replace them with tool-steel parts that can handle being honed/adjusted/ground like they need to be.

Get a good smith to do it for ya. It's worth the money, if this is a carry gun.

If it's a range-beater, try it yourself. It's amazing how much there is to learn about the workings of a 1911.



MIM parts effect trigger pull? I would love for you to explain this statement.
Link Posted: 9/22/2004 4:46:53 PM EST

Originally Posted By Va_Dinger:

Originally Posted By arowneragain:

Originally Posted By Broker:
If I want to reduce the trigger pull on my SA 1911 G.I. 45, can I accomplish that by changing the mainspring?



There are MANY ways to accomplish this, but changing 1 part isn't one of them.

You can change springs all day long, but your best bet is to start by getting rid of any MIM parts in the firing system, replace them with tool-steel parts that can handle being honed/adjusted/ground like they need to be.

Get a good smith to do it for ya. It's worth the money, if this is a carry gun.

If it's a range-beater, try it yourself. It's amazing how much there is to learn about the workings of a 1911.



MIM parts effect trigger pull? I would love for you to explain this statement.



I guess I'd have to MAKE that statement first.

Read it again, see what it says, and get back to me, mmkay?
Link Posted: 9/22/2004 4:49:17 PM EST

Originally Posted By nationwide:

Originally Posted By arowneragain:
Get a good smith to do it for ya. It's worth the money, if this is a carry gun.

If it's a range-beater, try it yourself. It's amazing how much there is to learn about the workings of a 1911.



[Division V.P. Bill Lumberg]I'm gonna have to go ahead, and, um, disagree with you...[/LUMBERG!?!?!?!]

There is nothing wrong with prepping a carry gun yourself.

You simply MUST verify safety and performance by running several hundred rounds of your carry ammo thru ANY weapon you are gonna depend on. No matter who mod'ed it, even NIB guns must be "broke in" and all wrinkles worked out before carry/duty use. This is a must!!



Do as I say, not as I do!



All 3 of my 'carry' handguns (and no-telling-how-many rifles...) have had trigger jobs performed my yours truly. But it's not something I'd go around recommending to complete strangers (newbies, asking relatively simple questions) on the internet. Don't want anyone to have their hammer follow their slide home in a defense situation, no?
Link Posted: 9/22/2004 6:50:20 PM EST

Originally Posted By arowneragain:

All 3 of my 'carry' handguns (and no-telling-how-many rifles...) have had trigger jobs performed my yours truly. But it's not something I'd go around recommending to complete strangers (newbies, asking relatively simple questions) on the internet. Don't want anyone to have their hammer follow their slide home in a defense situation, no?




Dammit, I hate it when other people make a better point then me!

Sorry arowneragain... I didn't get that memo!
Link Posted: 9/22/2004 7:35:33 PM EST

Originally Posted By nationwide:

Originally Posted By arowneragain:

All 3 of my 'carry' handguns (and no-telling-how-many rifles...) have had trigger jobs performed my yours truly. But it's not something I'd go around recommending to complete strangers (newbies, asking relatively simple questions) on the internet. Don't want anyone to have their hammer follow their slide home in a defense situation, no?




Dammit, I hate it when other people make a better point then me!

Sorry arowneragain... I didn't get that memo!



If your stapler is missing when you get to work tomorrow, think nothing of it.
Link Posted: 9/22/2004 7:51:48 PM EST

Originally Posted By arowneragain:

If your stapler is missing when you get to work tomorrow, think nothing of it.




My stapler????
Link Posted: 9/24/2004 8:32:30 AM EST
[Last Edit: 9/24/2004 8:32:51 AM EST by Va_Dinger]

Originally Posted By arowneragain:

Originally Posted By Va_Dinger:

Originally Posted By arowneragain:

Originally Posted By Broker:
If I want to reduce the trigger pull on my SA 1911 G.I. 45, can I accomplish that by changing the mainspring?



There are MANY ways to accomplish this, but changing 1 part isn't one of them.

You can change springs all day long, but your best bet is to start by getting rid of any MIM parts in the firing system, replace them with tool-steel parts that can handle being honed/adjusted/ground like they need to be.

Get a good smith to do it for ya. It's worth the money, if this is a carry gun.

If it's a range-beater, try it yourself. It's amazing how much there is to learn about the workings of a 1911.



MIM parts effect trigger pull? I would love for you to explain this statement.



I guess I'd have to MAKE that statement first.

Read it again, see what it says, and get back to me, mmkay?



What the hell do you call this?
"There are MANY ways to accomplish this, but changing 1 part isn't one of them.

You can change springs all day long, but your best bet is to start by getting rid of any MIM parts in the firing system, replace them with tool-steel parts that can handle being honed/adjusted/ground like they need to be."



Broker asked how to reduce the trigger pull and the above statement was your answer. Seems I read your post just fine.
Link Posted: 9/24/2004 9:33:15 AM EST

Originally Posted By Va_Dinger:

Broker asked how to reduce the trigger pull and the above statement was your answer. Seems I read your post just fine.



Dude, he's saying MIM parts are not good to tweak, hone, grind, whatever. If you're going to do work on the fire control components, do work on QUALITY fire control components.

I understood what he was getting at. Do you understand now?
Link Posted: 9/24/2004 12:01:56 PM EST
By replacing the hammer and sear all you could improve is creep and crispness. To lower the weight of the trigger break is accomplished by bending the sear spring. A reduced power mainspring does help but it is more for fine tuning like polishing the trigger race in the frame. There are a lot of small things that need to be done to get a perfect trigger break, no one will make a huge differance but a combination of everthing produces quality trigger. If you were one of the luckiest people you could buy a match grade hammer, sear, sear spring, light weight trigger, and reduced mainspring install all of these part and get a better tigger. If you do this please make sure you don't have hammer follow and your sear has no movement when the thumb saftey is applied and the trigger is pulled. Your best bet is to find a good smith and pay the $100.00
Link Posted: 9/24/2004 1:20:33 PM EST
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