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10/30/2020 2:42:12 PM
Posted: 3/7/2008 10:36:32 AM EST
[Last Edit: 3/7/2008 10:37:24 AM EST by easy610]
Both digested everything I ran thru them.

115 FMJ (obviously...) about 50 rds each.
115 GoldDot about 25 rds each.
127 Ranger +P+  about 25 rds each.
115 Blazer HP (GoldDot in cheap clothes...) about 100 rds each.

BUT I had one of them firing way off at 25 yds.

One was grouping easily within 6-7" kneeling, resting my cold cold hands on the icy cold wooden bench..it was COLD!  POI=POA.  Good to go.

The other P6 was firing 8" left and 6-7" low...consistently with all ammunition.  Sights appear to be the same on both.

Any SIG suggestions on a remedy??  Besides aiming to the right and high of my intended target?

Link Posted: 3/7/2008 12:28:22 PM EST
[Last Edit: 3/7/2008 12:35:45 PM EST by legalese77]

Originally Posted By easy610:
Both digested everything I ran thru them.

115 FMJ (obviously...) about 50 rds each.
115 GoldDot about 25 rds each.
127 Ranger +P+  about 25 rds each.
115 Blazer HP (GoldDot in cheap clothes...) about 100 rds each.

BUT I had one of them firing way off at 25 yds.

One was grouping easily within 6-7" kneeling, resting my cold cold hands on the icy cold wooden bench..it was COLD!  POI=POA.  Good to go.

The other P6 was firing 8" left and 6-7" low...consistently with all ammunition.  Sights appear to be the same on both.

Any SIG suggestions on a remedy??  Besides aiming to the right and high of my intended target?



Adjustable sights would seem like a relatively simple solution.

If you don't want to drop the coin on a new set of adjustables, you could fix the low POI that with a simple front sight swap (shorter/lower front sight forces you to raise the muzzle to get a sight picture, thereby correcting the point of impact.)

Check here for some of the sight options:

Midway USA P225 sights

As far as the left to right... can you get a sight tool and drift the rear sight to the right? A quick search suggests that this can also be done carefully with a nylon or brass punch and a hammer.
Link Posted: 3/7/2008 1:21:34 PM EST
Thanks for the response.

I guess I should shoot some more before I start spending MORE money, eh?  I did just have shoulder surgery last week and prob shouldn't be shooting at all!

Maybe another session in a couple weeks and see if the problem persists.

Carrying the sighted in one as CCW now....I got so many other choices that frankly make better sense (PM9, G19, G23), but I love the way this gun feels in my hand.....

Link Posted: 3/7/2008 1:48:36 PM EST
[Last Edit: 3/7/2008 1:49:34 PM EST by legalese77]

Originally Posted By easy610:
I guess I should shoot some more before I start spending MORE money, eh?



Meh. I shot mine the afternoon I received it after work (brrrr) and then shipped it off to Sig for some work the next afternoon. As far as I can tell, you have good excuse to switch to some (adjustable?) meprolights or sig lites  

I can't wait for it to come back. I was really impressed with the pistol to begin with.
Link Posted: 3/10/2008 5:32:34 AM EST
[Last Edit: 3/17/2008 3:45:21 AM EST by Jayg0351]
I shot mine for the first time. This was also my first time to ever shoot a 9 mil. I usally shoot a 45 XD. I found the Sig P6 to very accurate. I fired 115 grain jhp WIN. and some 115 grain Monarch FMJ. The only problem was I did not bring enough ammo with me. I went through 200 rds and wanted more. I love this pistol. Next time I will take it out to 50 yards and see if I shoot just as good. I do not find the trigger pull to be bad. I had a HKUSP 40 DAO. The trigger pull was just as heavy or more than the P6. I found that I am more accurate with this pistol than my XD45.
Link Posted: 3/16/2008 8:37:52 PM EST
Well, I just also just picked up one of those German police-trade in guns this past weekend at the gunshow.

I finally took it shooting today.  Bought it Saturday, no oil, and no disassembly, and straight to the range.

My impressions so far:
- the grip frame fits my hand better than my Glock
- I like the weight of the steel frame and steel slide
- it seems as lif the hammer bounces back off the firing pin and the slide once it is dropped (I don't know if that is just my gun or if its a P6 design)
- I also don't like the heavy weight of the gun, considering the size of the gun(but I can live with it)
- the double action is VERY VERY long and hard
- the single action is decent, but could be better
- the gun shoots low and to the left (and no i'm not overcompensating or jerking the gun in anticipation, my Glock and other handguns shoots to POA)
- the gun shoots decent groups with WWB 100 rds value pack from Wally world


I still want to take the gun and shoot it from 25 yrds to see how big the groups open up.  So far, I've only been able to shoot from roughly 10 to 15 yards.  At that distance, I've been able to get decent COM hits from all magazine.

Next, I want to get a CCW holster for the P6.

After that, I want to see if I can do some trigger work on the P6 to lighten the trigger pull.
Link Posted: 4/15/2008 8:16:10 AM EST
[Last Edit: 4/15/2008 8:17:54 AM EST by easy610]
Update -

Installed 16# trigger springs in both my P6s.

One gun ran perfect - 100% thru approx 200 rds.

One gun ran perfect with factory ammo - 100% thru approx 100 rds, factory but then had three FTFire (light primer hits) on another 100 rds of reloads.

To finish up I ran three mags of factory CCI gold-dot 115 thru both as fast as I could = both were 100%.

Trigger MUCH improved.

Suspect the re-load ammo was much to blame as factory ammo was fine, but I imagine the hammer strikes are lighter with the ligher spring.

Cheers,
Link Posted: 4/15/2008 11:18:28 AM EST

Originally Posted By MrMONEYman:

- I like the weight of the steel frame and steel slide
- it seems as lif the hammer bounces back off the firing pin and the slide once it is dropped (I don't know if that is just my gun or if its a P6 design)
- I also don't like the heavy weight of the gun, considering the size of the gun(but I can live with it)


The frame is aluminum
The hammer only travels fully forward when the trigger is pulled back.  It returns to a locked state (slightly raised from the firing pin) after it "bounces".  This is to prevent the hammer from striking the firing pin when dropped, etc.
Mine feels pretty light.  Not as light as a glock, but I don't really care for glocks anyway.
Link Posted: 4/15/2008 12:16:51 PM EST

Originally Posted By easy610:
Update -

Installed 16# trigger springs in both my P6s.

One gun ran perfect - 100% thru approx 200 rds.

One gun ran perfect with factory ammo - 100% thru approx 100 rds, factory but then had three FTFire (light primer hits) on another 100 rds of reloads.

To finish up I ran three mags of factory CCI gold-dot 115 thru both as fast as I could = both were 100%.

Trigger MUCH improved.

Suspect the re-load ammo was much to blame as factory ammo was fine, but I imagine the hammer strikes are lighter with the ligher spring.

Cheers,


what would you estimate the trigger pull as now compared to before?
Link Posted: 4/17/2008 10:41:52 AM EST
DA I would guess is around 10#
SA is around 3-4#.

I think the OE trigger when I got it was more like 15-17# IMO....and gritty.

I sprayed a can of gun scrub into the inards of my P6s and it ran BLACK BLACK BLACK and chunky for quite a time....YIKES!  Don't think mine had been cleaned very well!
Link Posted: 4/18/2008 8:59:04 AM EST

Originally Posted By Jayg0351:
I shot mine for the first time. This was also my first time to ever shoot a 9 mil. I usally shoot a 45 XD. I found the Sig P6 to very accurate. I fired 115 grain jhp WIN. and some 115 grain Monarch FMJ. The only problem was I did not bring enough ammo with me. I went through 200 rds and wanted more. I love this pistol. Next time I will take it out to 50 yards and see if I shoot just as good. I do not find the trigger pull to be bad. I had a HKUSP 40 DAO. The trigger pull was just as heavy or more than the P6. I found that I am more accurate with this pistol than my XD45.


My P229 40sw is dead on at 50yards
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