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Posted: 9/8/2005 3:12:18 PM EDT
My wife and I are thinking of getting a hot tub.  We occasionally go to a friends and use her tub, it is very relaxing and we can sleep well after using it.

We need a tub that seats 4 to 5, but it will mostly be used for just the two of us.  

220V is cheaper to run than 110V, so we are told.

I'm thinking of pouring an 8'x8' concrete slab for the 6.5x7 tub.  Plan is to use rebar and perhaps dig a grid of channels, like a house slab.  What do you think of the slab plan?

What advice do you have and what should we be looking for.

It appears that the spa will cost about $4,000.  for spa, placed on slab in back yard, steps, and frame gizmo to help sto the cover.  Price includes chemicals.  

Tell me som'thin good.  

Mike S
Link Posted: 9/8/2005 3:24:22 PM EDT
[#1]
No fancy channels are necessary.  Rebar or wire will suffice.  A standard slap will hold it fine.  I had one of the largest ones made (kidney shaped, triple lid) and not a single crack.  I didn't use rebar or wire under it.

My first jacuzzi was a mid-sized one and was on pavers set on top of a sand base, contained by a ring of pressure treated 2x4s.

Buy a used spa if you can, they depreciate faster than a car.  When folks get one, often they use them every day for a few months, then they sit idle for 4 years while they make payments.  My first one was $500 and I gave it away.  My second one was free.  When folks are done with one, they dump them cheap!!!!

110 or 220 is about the same cost, however the 220 will heat up much faster, depending on the BTU of the heater.  I kept my 220 Volt unit on a cycle where it ran only one hour a day, set at 102F in San Diego weather.  It was always hot and was very cheap to run.  

A spa that has solid foam insulation under it holds heat very efficiently.  

A bunch of wierd seats, fancy jets, and butt massagers is a waste.  All you need is a bench all the way around to sit the maximum amount of people, and jets that make bubbles.  Imagine 20 people in the one you sized!  It can be done easily if half of them are topless and bumpy in front.

Lastly, changing water once a month is much cheaper than trying to make bad water good with chemicals.  Chemicals don't do much for organic solids, neither will most cartridge filters.

Link Posted: 9/8/2005 3:48:29 PM EDT
[#2]
4" concrete with mesh or rebar on a solid base (sand or class 5) is plenty.  

As for chemicals, read up on it.  www.rhtubs.com has a great forum with many knowledgable people.  

I change my water every 4 months, and it's not dirty when I dump it.  You just have to maintain it, and it's simple.  Feel free to IM me for my maintenance plan, it's stupid simple and my tub is always clean, despite the daily use by my wife and I.

Link Posted: 9/8/2005 3:52:49 PM EDT
[#3]
I have a 8 person Hotsprings. It is about 8'x8'. I poured a 4" thick 16'x16' 4000psi concrete with fiber, I dug the edges down to about 8". No problems here. get the ozinator, cuts down on the chemicals. I use brohmine also. Maintence is easy. Works well on my back.
Link Posted: 9/8/2005 6:28:40 PM EDT
[#4]
Hmmmm,  lots of topless, pointy on the upper front people in the tub.  

That would make any guy 'feel' good.
Link Posted: 9/8/2005 6:33:04 PM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:
Buy a used spa if you can, they depreciate faster than a car.  When folks get one, often they use them every day for a few months, then they sit idle for 4 years while they make payments.  My first one was $500 and I gave it away.  My second one was free.  When folks are done with one, they dump them cheap!!!!


I see them for free all the time.
Link Posted: 9/8/2005 6:37:58 PM EDT
[#6]
IM SpaKing, he sells them.
Link Posted: 9/8/2005 6:39:07 PM EDT
[#7]
Standard slab.


220V - but make SURE the wiring conforms to the tub.   Very specific guage and wiring for warranty.


Try an all natural approach - avoids chemicals.
Link Posted: 9/8/2005 6:51:18 PM EDT
[#8]
I made a wood deck and put privace fence around it. 12 x 12

My tub could will run 110 or 220, but wired it for 220. The important thing to know is that with 110 it can't do as much at as the 220 at one time.

With my tub with 110 it can run the heater but not the pump at the same time. with 220 and 60 amp you can run 1 pump and the heater.

With 220 and 65 amp can run both pumps and the heater If your in a colder climate you want to be able to run the heater and the pumps at the same time.

I'm going off memory but should be pretty close.

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