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Posted: 3/2/2006 4:59:14 AM EDT
I am planning on building a workbench this weekend (It sounds like a good project at least). I wouldlike to see some of your layouts and PLANS if you have them. I want something that I can store all my cleaning stuff on, and build some sort of rack for my tools. I also plan on putting a small drill press on there for misc stuff, and a small vise, so I need help with a design sturdy enough for the vise so I can do some twisting, I also plan on building a rack to hang my dremel from and use the snake attachment. I also plan on leaving room for my reloader, whenever I finally get around to ordering one...... If you can provide me with some pictures of your setup, that would be great......, Plans would be EVEN BETTER. Also if you could help me build up a list of tools, (Other than the obvious AR-15/Gun Tools). Like brass hammer, Types of pliers.... Im trying to get everything togather and get an extra set. (I am building this in my garage, so I don't have to go out to the building everytime I need to get a tool for a gun. Thanks, Josh |
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Was hoping for more ultility type benchs, but thanks for sharing. Got enough reloading stuff? This is the one im thinking about building right now. Think it will be sturdy enough?, What can I coat it with also to keep it chemical resistant. |
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i picked up some free workbench plans from lowes and built one for my shop. took about 2 hours and about 80.00 worth of lumber.
one thing i found... use the thickest deck you can afford. |
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The bench in your link is strong enough, but if you are really going to be doing some tweaking/twisting, you might consider additional anchoring to the floor or wall.
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Yea if I go with the plan above, I plan on modifying it slightly and using bigger legs/supports/deck. So wheres the pics? |
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Yes I plan on anchoring it to the wall, The floor is not really an options, I don't want to put anything into the concrete in case I want to move it later on. I just need to find pegboard, it doesn't look like my local HD/Lowes sell it. Josh |
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to be honest the frame is more than sturdy. i way about 225 and got uip on the deck and jumped up and down on it to see how sturdy it was. it never flexed a bit. will try to get some pics this afternoon. |
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Cool thanks. So you think if I use the one I linked too and just use a thicker deck (mainly outta personal pref.), it will be fine, especially it is bolted to the wall too. Josh |
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I built two workbenches for my gun/reloading room a couple of months ago. I didn't use any plans, but just kind of made it up as I went. It turned out pretty similar to what is linked in your post. The only difference, and what I would highly recommend, is that I added some diagonal supports on the sides and back. From the look of the bench in that link it will torque and twist a bit, especially if you are cranking on a vise or reloader handle. Adding one cross member to the back and one to each side makes a big difference in making the bench have a solid feel. I don't have any pictures on my computer, but I can take some tonight and post them tomorrow. Basically the benches I made are comprised of a double thickness of 2x4's for the frame, 1 layer of 3/4" MDF for the bottom shelf, and 2 layers of 3/4" MDF for the bench surface. They are VERY HEAVY, but very sturdy. I plan on adding some drawers to it later. |
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If you can get ahold of an old door or two they make great counters for the bench.
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Yea I was thinking about this as I was getting a material list togather, I think I will take one 2x4 and run it at an angle from top to bottom/front to back, and then on the other side the oposite way, and running two in the backk towards the middle. Josh |
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On mine I just ran one length along the back from top to bottom, from one corner to the other. Going to the middle might be agood idea too, but mine is plenty sturdy. It made a pretty big difference just adding those three pieces of wood. |
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The plan you have will work well.
But I would suggest one change. I built my top out of a piece of 3/4 OSB, glued and screwed to a piece of 3/4 Plywood. I then put an edge around the top and left it 1/4 inch proud. I then placed and screwed a piece of 1/4 inch Masonite on the top of the bench. That way, when the top of the bench gets banged up, as they will, you can remove the Masonite and replace it and have a new bench. Good luck with the project. |
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Cool thanks. I hope to see some pictures soon.
I still gotta get up a toollist though |
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I have seen the light :p. I was looking for chemical resistant wood coatings but this sounds like the ticket. |
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Is this sturdy enough for you? Doesnt look like you have a vise on there, but do you do any prying on the table? |
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I built mine out of a solid core door blank from Lowe's (as the top) with 6x6 legs. I also have 2x6s around the top just under the door blank to provide a little more rigidity. Pretty simple setup. I don't have any pictures, but it's not really that complicated to figure out. The legs are lag-bolted to the top (countersunk) with 4 lag bolts per leg. The 2x6s are just screwed together and then screwed to the top and to the legs with regulare wood screws. I then poly urethaned the whole thing to fill in the holes and provide a smooth surface.
I have my loader mounted on it, and a vice. It's not even attached to the wall, and it does not move when I work on it. |
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I put together one of these based on NRMA plans.
Plans are online here. Very sturdy, based on 4x4 legs. The upper shelves are optional, I put my own together to increase benchtop space. |
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Does the poly hold up to chemicals like, breakfree powderblast, and clp etc...? |
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Smalls that looks pretty nice, its even better when you don't have to go buy the wood to make it isnt it . Seems like a lot of people go the door route it sounds like.
Thanks for sharing the pics. |
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Your workbench is on the space shuttle??? |
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I used 3/16" by 1.5" Angle Iron, made 8' long and 2' deep and 3' tall.
Built two rectangles 2'x8' of angle iron... Tig Welded at the corners Attached the legs at all four corners by the same method... Top rectangle at the top of said legs and the second rectangle inverse to the top one and 8" above the floor... the bottom shelf is made from Expanded Metal to allow debris to fall through... The original design I wanted a steel top 1/2" thick but have not been able to get to that yet so in the interim I used 2x6 lumber for the top these need to be screwed in place or alternatively you could use 3/4" Plywood cut a sheet in half and sandwich both pieces on top then bolt them down. 5" Vises on both ends... this bench is designed... for a machineshop type environment... We use it in the Gunshop and it takes a pounding and has stayed together... I still want the Steel top though... |
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I wish I had pics of the one I left in Miami.
Over six feet long, built out of 2x4's with a door and layer of MDF for the top. Storage shelves on each end, cabinet on front left for tools, set of nail/screw drawers on front right, back edge with outlets, front-mounted screwdriver/drill chargers. Gonna have fun building another one, though. |
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Sounds really nice! |
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It's very sturdy and attached to the wall with "L" brackets. The thing does not move. |
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I haven't encountered any problems with anything I've spilled on it yet. I do usually put a towel down when I'm using cleaning solutions, etc., but that hasn't stopped it from getting at least some amount of chemicals on it. |
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NICE looking top. I like the ready made ones, just looking for a weekend project to build though. I like to make stuff so I figure this is something good to do. How does the poly hold up to the cleaning chemicals? Josh |
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Yeah, I'm a door gunner, but I don't like to talk about it. |
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I have a sears bought one mounted right next to my deep sink. Great for cleaning weapons and paint stuff.
It didn't come with a top, I have a piece of 3/4" ply for a top that I gave 4 coats of oil high gloss white paint on, I put some left over 1/2 round trim on the edges. |
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NICE. I thinking thats gonna be a problem, is im gonna build this, get a realoader in a month or so, and then say to myself, i need another bench for my reloading stuff, then I will have two side by side LOL! |
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That can be a good thing - to isolate your two tables - if you are charging/weighing on one bench, and seating on another. |
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Impervious. |
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Cool. Have you ever used breakfree powderblast on it? I know its not good to get one wood stocks on guns, so i was wondering how this did. Josh |
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Check out GRIZZLY.COM. They have workbench tops and leg sets that are the best I have found. I bought a 6 ft and 8 ft top and couldn't be happier with the results.
Grizzly workbench |
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Ditto. I picked up an old SOLID wood door at a recycled lumber yard, finished it with linseed oil, and based it on 2 X 6's with 4 X 4 legs. One consideration: figure out what height works best for you & your uses, maybe try a few times laying the top on stacks of whatever, making adjustments. I personally prefer it higher than some do. Lets me sit on a high stool with my legs underneath; also think about leaving an overhang in front to allow C-clamps, etc. |
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If you want to add strength and stability, consider using a top with a sacrificial top (Masonite like OP suggested, or an old solid door, or a thick sheet of Maple plywood) with a laminated substrate of 2x4s and box framing the substrate with 2x8 or 2x10s, then dropping 4x4 or angled 2x4 legs braced off the ground with 2x4s for stability and to support a lower shelf for storage.
This way is a little labor intensive as you have to plane the substrate flat, but you end up with a very solid bench. If you are building from a kit or from plans, remember to select each piece of lumber carefully. Crooked and knotted lumber will cost you time and frustration when you are trying to build square, if not another trip to the store. |
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Yea im picking with the wood I buy from lowes, i inspect every peice to get the best part for my money. Josh |
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I don't have pics handy, but my favorite workbench design is two 4 X 8 sheets of 3/4" plywood for the top, 2 x 6's for the top rails and six 4 x 4's for the legs. I cut the plywood down to about 30" wide and 6' to 8' feet long (depends on what size your space is). Two legs on each end and two centered in the middle. I notch out the tops of the 4 x 4's so the 2" x 6" rail frame fits in perfectly flush on it's side and connect the rails to the 4 x 4's with 1/4" x 2.5 inch lag bolts and washers. I drill pilot holes for the lag bolts and use a spade or forstner bit to countersink about 3/8 of an inch so the lag bolt head and washer are not sticking out. About 10 inches from the floor I also notch the 4 x 4's there to put in a smaller 2 x 4 rail system and use those to either put a shelf or as a support for a custom built cabinet with drawers, shelves, etc.
If you really want to get fancy and do some "showy bitch" stuff you can do a half inch wide rabbit along the top inside frame of the 2 x 6 rail system about 1.5 inches deep and "drop" the two sheets of 3/4-inch ply into the rabbit and secure. Visually it looks better but doesn't provide any extra strength. You can also make the rabbit 1.75 inches deep and put a 1/4-inch sheet of hardboard on top of the plywood as a sort of "sacrificial" top and replace it when ever it gets trashed. |
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Nice! I like the tin foil protection you put in the work space. Helps keep out those CIA mind control waves. J/K |
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My current bench I built. 4x4 legs, with a solid 2x4 top (all 2x4's laid flat next to each other and screwed down) and then a 1/2" piece of plywood on top of that. It has a shelf underneath built without all the 2x4's for storage. I wanted it to be heavy, sturdy, but yet movable if absolutely needed.
This summer I hope to build a second bench the same way, however I'm going to put countertop on top of it, since the plywood tends to absorb to much of the oils. |
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After looking this over, a couple times, I have decided to build one like this. Thanks, Josh |
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