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Posted: 10/28/2009 2:14:42 PM EST
[Last Edit: 11/2/2009 3:29:01 PM EST by Svetgar]
99 F150 4x4 with 91k miles. I am the original owner. I put new front and rear Bilstein shocks on about 2 years and 15,000 miles ago.

The squeaking started a few days ago after driving through several deep puddles in heavy rain. I can make the truck squeak by rocking it side to side.

Please help, it is driving me nuts.
Link Posted: 10/28/2009 2:22:54 PM EST
mice
Link Posted: 10/28/2009 2:35:48 PM EST
dunk it in a vat of hot oil...
Link Posted: 10/28/2009 3:13:03 PM EST
Any helpful advice before I have to shell out at the mechanic?
Link Posted: 10/28/2009 3:33:01 PM EST
Spray some rust penetrator/WD-40 and/or silicon spray in all the places where the chassis pivots. If you have greaseable zerk fittings, grease them all up too.
Link Posted: 10/28/2009 3:35:29 PM EST
You mention it squeaks rocking side to side. Is that with the engine off and parked? If so, probably leaf springs. Try spraying some motorcycle chain lube (heavy oil suspended in solvent to allow it to penetrate) in between the leafs and in the bushings.

If it is while moving at low speeds, probably U joint.
Link Posted: 10/28/2009 3:37:13 PM EST
Originally Posted By jeremy223:
You mention it squeaks rocking side to side. Is that with the engine off and parked? If so, probably leaf springs. Try spraying some motorcycle chain lube (heavy oil suspended in solvent to allow it to penetrate) in between the leafs and in the bushings.

If it is while moving at low speeds, probably U joint.


Leaf springs. Silicone the leaf spring separators at the ends of the leafs.
Link Posted: 10/28/2009 6:56:30 PM EST
Thanks for the helpful replies. I will spray the leaf springs tomorrow morning.
Link Posted: 10/28/2009 7:16:59 PM EST
If the shocks or sway bars have polyurethane bushings, they will squeak unless they were installed with grease at the pivot points.
Link Posted: 10/29/2009 2:40:05 AM EST
It's most likely that you got dust/dirt in the bushings.

Spray it down really well with water and them spray wd40 or some other lube on the shock eyes,springs and any other bushings you see.
That may or may not help but it's worth a try.
Sometimes you just have to let it work it's self out and go away on it's own.

What ever you do don't take it to a shop over this.
They WILL find something to charge you for and you will spend money needlessly.

Link Posted: 10/29/2009 5:50:33 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/29/2009 5:52:55 PM EST by violentj]
A 99 f150 with almost 100k miles?

a good tech should be able to find a hundred little things that should be replaced but don't have to be.

Probally bushings, coil spring cups, leaf springs or sway bar mounts. When you find Mr. squeeky and he turns out to be a bushing, there's no harm in replacing him.

Most likely to be the front coils squeeking on the rubber mounts if there are any, normal.
Link Posted: 10/29/2009 5:55:24 PM EST
Don't overlook the ball joints.I see them squeaking all the time.
Busted boot on a ball joint and some water intrusion equals rust real quick.
Try spraying some penetrating oil in the boot and turn the steering wheel several times to distribute the oil.

If it is coming from the rear........most likely leaf springs.
Link Posted: 10/29/2009 6:02:53 PM EST
IF it is in the front I guarantee it is the ball joints. The rubber boot is torn and you got water in them. You can stop the squeak for awhile with a turkey syringe and motor oil but they need to be replaced.
Link Posted: 10/29/2009 7:03:50 PM EST
My co-worker has a 99 F150. He said his ball joints were squeaking. I told him to check for zerk fitting first before he takes it and gets robbed. He was quoted $600 to replace them.
Link Posted: 10/29/2009 7:26:11 PM EST
Originally Posted By MC_Man:
My co-worker has a 99 F150. He said his ball joints were squeaking. I told him to check for zerk fitting first before he takes it and gets robbed. He was quoted $600 to replace them.


Unfortunately, a lot of the stock stuff doesn't come with zerk fittings anymore
Link Posted: 10/29/2009 7:45:07 PM EST
Originally Posted By MC_Man:
My co-worker has a 99 F150. He said his ball joints were squeaking. I told him to check for zerk fitting first before he takes it and gets robbed. He was quoted $600 to replace them.


Modern Ford ball joints are integral to the control arm and are non-serviceable. The whole control arm has to be replaced when the ball joint goes bad.

Link Posted: 10/29/2009 9:24:24 PM EST
Most likely lower ball joints.

If you're a do it yourselfer, here are some instructions on how to replace them

http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/10/282/article/How_To_Replace_19972003_F150_Ball_Joints.html

Link Posted: 10/30/2009 3:46:04 PM EST
Originally Posted By GTwannabe:
Originally Posted By MC_Man:
My co-worker has a 99 F150. He said his ball joints were squeaking. I told him to check for zerk fitting first before he takes it and gets robbed. He was quoted $600 to replace them.


Modern Ford ball joints are integral to the control arm and are non-serviceable. The whole control arm has to be replaced when the ball joint goes bad.




The uppers are like that. The lowers are standard pressed-in ball joints.
Link Posted: 11/2/2009 3:22:34 PM EST
[Last Edit: 11/2/2009 3:23:08 PM EST by Svetgar]
Thanks for the replies. It was the lower ball joints.

Boots were broken, filling them up with wd-40 made it less loud, but still noticeable. They were sealed, so no zerk fittings.

So, I figure I will give it a shot at replacement myself. I did the shocks and brakes myself, is the ball joints much harder to do? Should I go with OEM or Moog brand?

Also, should I look at / replace anything else while I am down there?

Also, how long can I drive on this? I can't do the work until Thanksgiving break.

Thanks
Link Posted: 11/2/2009 3:57:55 PM EST
You can drive on them until the ball joint wears to the point that you can jack up the wheel and move the tire in and out horizontally, one hand at 12 o'clock and one at 6.
The job shouldn't be bad if you had access to a press. Just make sure you seat the ball joint all the way and you should be fine.
Moog are good parts, but I'd still be prone to go with trusty ol' Dana.
Link Posted: 11/2/2009 5:13:32 PM EST
I have had the best luck with Moog chassis parts.Will be greasable from now on.
I don't think it is a tough job at all but I do these on a regular basis also.
You will need a ball joint press,but can probably get one on loan from an auto parts store.While you are there check your upper ball joints,these are part of the control arm and cannot be pressed out.
Also take a look at your sway bar links.More likely to be broken than worn.
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