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Posted: 8/30/2015 7:16:30 PM EDT
Unlike most of GD I'm not a billionaire, I don't have a 10 inch cock, although my lady is pretty smoking... Pictures have been posted before.
I have some nice AR and other rifle builds, all top tier components, but if I get the hankering to build a new gun, I just can't see pouring a couple thousand bucks a pop into another rifle unless it fills a truly unique niche. So, for the guy who has a really nice rifle or two, and is doing a budget build, where will you cut corners to keep costs down? Bargain AR lower receivers? Run of the mill LPKs? Standard charging handles instead of BCM or equivalent? No name BCGs? Non-issue red dots like Bushnell, Vortex, or Primary Arms? Generic furniture instead of more ergonomic options with better adjustments? Cheap backup sights? |
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Do not skimp on Bolt Assemblies or Barrels.
Try to stay high end for the lower receiver and LPK. The price difference between top and bottom is minimal, making it very wise if possible. |
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No optics. EE carry handle. Discount lower.
But honestly I wouldn't build a boring run-of-the-mill AR just for the hell of it. I'd spring for a neat pistol or cheap AK. Maybe a CETME or something like that. |
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I bought an anderson lower for my current build, probably won't again due to their stupid grip screw threads being a fucked up.
7075 extruded buffer tube, DD LPK, Palmetto upper, which is the FN barrel, with a 158 steel full auto carrier. Pretty okay build otherwise |
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Do not skimp on Bolt Assemblies or Barrels. Try to stay high end for the lower receiver and LPK. The price difference between top and bottom is minimal, making it very wise if possible. View Quote Honest question, what difference does the lower make so long as it is in spec. Is a $50 stripped forged lower from PSA that inferior to a much more expensive lower like Spikes or Mega? |
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I "cut corners" on the upper itself, lower, parts kit, and buffer tube typically. And by 'cut corners' i mean i don't spend $400 on a piece of fucking inconel that's costs $15 to produce from anywhere else, like KAC does lololol. If it's 'mil spec', its fine. Hell, even 'commercial' spec is fine, its still fucking forged aluminum, that slab of concrete that tactical thomas is going to throw his rifle onto (to 'battle test it') isn't going to care what roll marks you have.
Triggers, sure ill throw money at geissele.. but the pins themselves? Roll pins are roll pins. |
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I usually go cheap on everything but barrels and charging handles. I buy all the other stuff as blems or on sale. Now I'm saving for optics.
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Quoted:
Unlike most of GD I'm not a billionaire, I don't have a 10 inch cock, although my lady is pretty smoking... Pictures have been posted before. I have some nice AR and other rifle builds, all top tier components, but if I get the hankering to build a new gun, I just can't see pouring a couple thousand bucks a pop into another rifle unless it fills a truly unique niche. So, for the guy who has a really nice rifle or two, and is doing a budget build, where will you cut corners to keep costs down? Bargain AR lower receivers? Run of the mill LPKs? Standard charging handles instead of BCM or equivalent? No name BCGs? Non-issue red dots like Bushnell, Vortex, or Primary Arms? Generic furniture instead of more ergonomic options with better adjustments? Cheap backup sights? View Quote Yes Yes Yes Yes For recreational/hunting guns Magpul MOE furniture instead of rails Sometimes The key part to that is I have a decent batch of spare parts now. I could break every bolt on every rifle I have, a BCG or two as well, and half the LPKs and be up and running before the day is out. Knowing I can fix it easy if there is a problem and that I have spares (both parts and rifles) makes me a lot more willing to chance the budget gear. ETA: I've been pleased with the PSA stuff. Also, if you have enough LPKs, you can mix and match the parts to get some fairly decent triggers - some sets will be better than others. |
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I build cheap AR's.
I mostly use PSA blems for lowers, and as many of their build kits as parts. That saves enough cash to get high end upper, BCG, and barrel parts. |
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Honest question, what difference does the lower make so long as it is in spec. Is a $50 stripped forged lower from PSA that inferior to a much more expensive lower like Spikes or Mega? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Do not skimp on Bolt Assemblies or Barrels. Try to stay high end for the lower receiver and LPK. The price difference between top and bottom is minimal, making it very wise if possible. Honest question, what difference does the lower make so long as it is in spec. Is a $50 stripped forged lower from PSA that inferior to a much more expensive lower like Spikes or Mega? There are minimal differences, roll marks, additional features, etc...the 2 places I don't scrimp when building an AR are the barrel and the BCG, if you have money left over get a good trigger, other than those things..meh |
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Quoted:
Honest question, what difference does the lower make so long as it is in spec. Is a $50 stripped forged lower from PSA that inferior to a much more expensive lower like Spikes or Mega? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Do not skimp on Bolt Assemblies or Barrels. Try to stay high end for the lower receiver and LPK. The price difference between top and bottom is minimal, making it very wise if possible. Honest question, what difference does the lower make so long as it is in spec. Is a $50 stripped forged lower from PSA that inferior to a much more expensive lower like Spikes or Mega? Well, you know what, it really does come down to how much use you plan to put a rifle though (as always). And, full disclosure, I was looking at something like a Spikes receiver as the lower end of the spectrum. |
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Places I would skimp?
Use whatever furniture comes with your kit lower, Anderson is fine. GI front sight instead of Tritium Mid range red dots like PA or Vortex instead of high end. |
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Spend your cash on FCG, barrel and BCG.
As long as everything else is in spec, I don't sweat it. Obviously, you get what you pay for in glass. Just my opinion. (I spent a shit ton on a mega matched billet set with an mkm rail, so my opinion isn't really worth a Damn.) |
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Well, you know what, it really does come down to how much use you plan to put a rifle though (as always). And, full disclosure, I was looking at something like a Spikes receiver as the lower end of the spectrum. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Do not skimp on Bolt Assemblies or Barrels. Try to stay high end for the lower receiver and LPK. The price difference between top and bottom is minimal, making it very wise if possible. Honest question, what difference does the lower make so long as it is in spec. Is a $50 stripped forged lower from PSA that inferior to a much more expensive lower like Spikes or Mega? Well, you know what, it really does come down to how much use you plan to put a rifle though (as always). And, full disclosure, I was looking at something like a Spikes receiver as the lower end of the spectrum. I've had lowers from the late 80s that have probably 20k rounds through them. I was the third and fourth owner on some of them. They seemed to keep going and going. Curious, what lowers do you typically use? |
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I dont think I'll ever buy another complete AR again.
I'd rather build my lowe how I want it, then buy a nice upper. |
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Cheap lower. I built a lot of my guns on Essential Arms lowers and they are excellent and were about the cheapest at the time. I think they stopped making lowers.
If the lower works then you can stop worrying, unlike a cheap bcg .etc which will always bug you. Keep standard furniture and don't freefloat, whatever you might spend on a freefloat tube invest instead in a nicer barrel and bcg. Down the road you can always install a free float tube. Uppers and lowers can be an area where you are cheap. If they work then you don't worry about them again, if they don't well you should be able to get replacements. A cheap lower parts kit isn't a horrible idea as you could always upgrade the fcg if you ever felt it was subpar. The springs and detents an things should hold up if they were even trying to make something decent. |
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I never skimp. I do find good sales and deals. I don't typically buy the most expensive brand names. There are very good parts without spending LaThousands of dollars.
I never buy unmarked bulk AR parts, especially at gun shows. No reason to go cheap and no reason to buy the most expensive. |
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I just buy parts when they're on sale and it looks like a good deal. Eventually I put them together when I have enough.
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imo you can cheap out on
lower upper buffer tube and internals. upper parts kit. LPK minus the trigger GB and tube basically everything but barrel, bolt and trigger. |
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I'll spend more on a trigger than I do on the upper, lower and LPK combined, but it's worth every penny. I just can't stand shooting a gun with a horrible trigger. Even the cheapest Geissele is worlds better than what comes in most LPK's. And to a lesser extent I'll buy a good barrel, doesn't have to be chrome lined, but it has to be accurate, and a quality bolt. |
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I guess I'm going to have to pony up for one of these super duper premium triggers. I've been using stock triggers for more than 20 years.
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GD answer
I gets cheep barrels and bcgs and parts insyd because the people dont see dat shit. Den i get airsoft parts for d rest cuz dey luk n feel jst lyk d real thang, why pay double?! Serious answer The cheaper I go, the more retro/kiss it becomes. I substitute USGI pattern parts for more expensive parts as needed. I usually skimp on furniture first. |
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I bought an anderson lower for my current build, probably won't again due to their stupid grip screw threads being a fucked up. 7075 extruded buffer tube, DD LPK, Palmetto upper, which is the FN barrel, with a 158 steel full auto carrier. Pretty okay build otherwise View Quote I run a tap through the grip screw threads before every build... Makes life so much easier! BTW, I've gotten the same amount of shavings out of just about every brand lower I've tried... |
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I guess I'm going to have to pony up for one of these super duper premium triggers. I've been using stock triggers for more than 20 years. View Quote I used to use whatever was in the LPK also. I bought a supressor and got a 200 dollar credit for sticking it to the man! With that credit I bought a Geissele G2S and went to CWW and obtained a SSA-E. I hate to shoot anything but the rifles with my Geissele triggers. |
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80% lower for $29. Everything else is middle shelf.
I build everything I can out of quality parts, used from the EE. I save a few bucks but still get a good rifle. |
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I just finished a budget build truck gun. Here are the places I saved money:
Barrel - There are lots of sub $200 4150 CMV barrels with Nitride, Melonite, or another similar finish. There's nothing wrong with just an old CMV barrel either. It will be more accurate than almost all chrome lined, at the expense of barrel life. Handguard - You can still attach a light to a plastic MOE handguard. I ended up going with one of the offerings from ALG. It's light weight and does everything I need it to do. No complaints. Back up sights - The plastic magpul sights work fine. Receiver - Anderson lower and upper. AIM has the DSA Milspec receiver extensions + buffer, spring, and castle nut for $29. They also have full BCGs for $90~$110. I don't have enough rounds down range to judge these yet. There are some very good stocks now for under $60. I got the new BCM. Optic - My "go to" rifles have Aimpoints, but I've had good luck with Vortex reddots too. I'm using a Sparc 2 for my budget build. The biggest money saver is the box of spare AR parts we've accumulated over the years. |
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I never skimp. I do find good sales and deals. I don't typically buy the most expensive brand names. There are very good parts without spending LaThousands of dollars. I never buy unmarked bulk AR parts, especially at gun shows. No reason to go cheap and no reason to buy the most expensive. View Quote This. Some of my builds take months to gather all the parts. Figure out what you want and then buy when you find a good deal. Btw, those Velocity 3lb triggers that are around $130 right now are quite the bargain. |
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Trigger. Although, the clean break of a G or RRA is very nice, the good old $7 GI trigger gets cleaner the more you shoot it and become part of you. The AR has a nice stock trigger, as far as utilitarian rugged guns go. It's beefy as fuck.
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OP might have more money for AR parts if he didn't have 8974378 watches. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I guess I'm going to have to pony up for one of these super duper premium triggers. I've been using stock triggers for more than 20 years. OP might have more money for AR parts if he didn't have 8974378 watches. Wanna by a watch? /opens trench coat |
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BCG, barrel, and optics gotta be high quality. The rest can vary based on what exactly you're doing. I'd rather have good iron sights than a cheap red dot. |
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I like the RAS as an option for a handguard, you can pick them up for nothing if you don't mind them being banged up. I've also been known to skimp on shit like takedown pin springs. Don't spend the money on BUIS.
Basically, the things I want high end/milspec parts on: barrel, trigger, bolt/carrier, receiver extension, optics. Anything else is fair game as long as it's not Hesse level garbage. I don't care about having a pretty lower/upper, as long as the important parts are good quality. ETA: Don't buy as many guns/sell your unused ones off. Use that to buy better barrels, triggers, and optics. That's the advice I give most people who want to look into saving money on guns. Those are the parts that give you the most bang for the buck in my opinion. |
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I guess I'm going to have to pony up for one of these super duper premium triggers. I've been using stock triggers for more than 20 years. View Quote Not really it depends on what you are looking to get from the rifle, a range rifle 2-4 moa just use what ever trigger/barrel/bcg you want, if you want a target rifle you are going to have to pony up for at least a good barrel and trigger. It doesn't have to be a $250 or 400 trigger even a RRA 2 stage, which I have seen the EE for $75 is going to be an improvement for a target rifle over a GI trigger. |
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Quoted: GD answer I gets cheep barrels and bcgs and parts insyd because the people dont see dat shit. Den i get airsoft parts for d rest cuz dey luk n feel jst lyk d real thang, why pay double?! Serious answer The cheaper I go, the more retro/kiss it becomes. I substitute USGI pattern parts for more expensive parts as needed. I usually skimp on furniture first. View Quote No one in GD types like that besides you. Just sayin... |
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I use cheap receivers. Which I don't personally feel equals cutting corners. I have used receivers over again also. In other words, most of my current guns had a previous life in another configuration.
I also never put optics on a new build for awhile. I start with irons and eventually spring for optics. One big thing is that after you do this for awhile you have a bunch of stuff lying around. You use this stuff in a build, then slowly upgrade things gradually. You buy a Geisile trigger. Now you have your old fire control parts for your next build......etc. |
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Quoted: Cheap lowers are the best lowers. View Quote I have plans for 5 more next month......maybe 10. 20 receivers in addition to my current rifles should be enough? Furniture is where I cut corners. A2 grip is fine. I don't need a fancy stock, just a solid telescoping stock. Plain handguards instead of rails on every Rifle. |
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I've never had a problem with:
cheapo lower no-frills LPK standard phosphate BCG Fancy charging handle is nice if you have a scope sitting there, but not really necessary if you have a red dot (IMHO) |
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Spend your money on a good barrell and bcg. But AR parts are cheap right now.
Go nuts |
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A lower is a lower is a lower.
As long as it's in spec, then one doesn't have anything over the other (speaking of forged lowers). |
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Build cheap rifle.
Replace parts with better parts. When done, reassemble cheap rifle from parts bin and start over. |
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There are minimal differences, roll marks, additional features, etc...the 2 places I don't scrimp when building an AR are the barrel and the BCG, if you have money left over get a good trigger, other than those things..meh View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Do not skimp on Bolt Assemblies or Barrels. Try to stay high end for the lower receiver and LPK. The price difference between top and bottom is minimal, making it very wise if possible. Honest question, what difference does the lower make so long as it is in spec. Is a $50 stripped forged lower from PSA that inferior to a much more expensive lower like Spikes or Mega? There are minimal differences, roll marks, additional features, etc...the 2 places I don't scrimp when building an AR are the barrel and the BCG, if you have money left over get a good trigger, other than those things..meh I totally agree. |
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Yup. Stack them high. Anderson's are just fine. Just take the time to look them over. I have plans for 5 more next month......maybe 10. 20 receivers in addition to my current rifles should be enough? Furniture is where I cut corners. A2 grip is fine. I don't need a fancy stock, just a solid telescoping stock. Plain handguards instead of rails on every Rifle. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Cheap lowers are the best lowers. 20 receivers in addition to my current rifles should be enough? Furniture is where I cut corners. A2 grip is fine. I don't need a fancy stock, just a solid telescoping stock. Plain handguards instead of rails on every Rifle. Andersons with the integrated trigger guards are my favorite at the moment. You get the winter style guard for free |
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I buy used like new quality uppers. Whatever lowers. Stag LPK. BCM stock kits. So buying used uppers is where I cut corners.
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