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Posted: 8/26/2004 1:49:56 PM EDT
I want to build a coffee table with a glass top.  I want the top to "float" as much as possible about 4"-6" above the wooden shelf below it.  Ideally I'd like to have a post at each corner of the glass top, with the edges of the glass rounded off to avoid injury.  Essentially what the table would look like would be 4 wheels on the bottom, a sheet of 3/4" plywood above the wheels, a metal post at each corner holding a butcher-block type shelf made of 2x4s approximately 12" above the plywood, and another metal post at each corner above that holding the glass.

Is this physicaly possible?  Each corner would need about four 1/4" holes drilled through it, approximately 6"-8" from the edges to attach it to the posts.  The total area of the piece of glass would be about 3'x4' at the most.  How thick would the glass need to be to accomplish this?

And of course, if all of this is possible, what would I be looking at cost wise?  I'm assuming I'd want tempered or impact resistant glass for this.
Link Posted: 8/26/2004 2:22:39 PM EDT
[#1]
My parents replaced the glass top of their breakfast table last year and it sounds similar to what you described so I would say it is possible.

The table has round glass top that was about 48" in diameter and held up by 5 iron legs.  The glass top was bolted to each leg by a screw that looks to be about 1/2" in diameter.  The glass is about 3/4" I think and the weight is about 75 pounds.  The glass top is nothing fancy but I believe it cost about $350 from a place in Hialeah (I think).
     
Link Posted: 8/26/2004 2:26:31 PM EDT
[#2]
The top should be at least 3/8" but ideally 1/2" thich. Tempered glass would be better. Make sure you have a pencil polished edge.
Link Posted: 8/26/2004 2:36:33 PM EDT
[#3]
Glass table tops usually aren't tempered. You can buy them at Hobby Lobby, Michaels, or most any large craft store. I have built about 15 ironwork and glass tables in the last few years and the hobby store glass works great. You don't want to try drilling holes in the glass. Go to WalMart and get the clear, adhesive backed rubber "buttons" to hold the glass in place. They have a natural skid resistant quality that makes it extermely hard for the glass to slide off. You will usually turn the table over or slide the whole table before the glass moves.

I'll try to post a picture after while of one of my tables.

Good luck.
Link Posted: 8/26/2004 2:36:42 PM EDT
[#4]

Quoted:
The top should be at least 3/8" but ideally 1/2" thich. Tempered glass would be better. Make sure you have a pencil polished edge.



if you cant get tempered dont make it, all u need to do is trip and fall into to to kill yourself.

we would hate to lose a fellow team member that way
Link Posted: 8/26/2004 2:38:42 PM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:

we would hate to lose a fellow team member that way



I'm not entirely sure that everyone here shares that view
Link Posted: 8/26/2004 2:46:13 PM EDT
[#6]
Link Posted: 8/26/2004 2:57:03 PM EDT
[#7]
Link Posted: 8/26/2004 2:58:23 PM EDT
[#8]
those glass top tables scare the hell outta me.

i just know some night i would get drunk, stumble into one and slice my frickin head off accidentally.
Link Posted: 8/26/2004 3:22:37 PM EDT
[#9]
I've done a few tables and glass shelving / cabinet door projects.
I was working up a design for a table using a very similar idea to what you've described -



The length was around 54", the cost for 1/4" tempered was ~$120. And not a whole lot more for thicker.

Find your local glass shop. custom-szed and -edged tempered glass is not very expensive. you can get exactly what you want, directly.

Link Posted: 8/26/2004 4:48:49 PM EDT
[#10]

Quoted:
I've done a few tables and glass shelving / cabinet door projects.
I was working up a design for a table using a very similar idea to what you've described -

img.photobucket.com/albums/v95/rayra/surftable.jpg

The length was around 54", the cost for 1/4" tempered was ~$120. And not a whole lot more for thicker.

Find your local glass shop. custom-szed and -edged tempered glass is not very expensive. you can get exactly what you want, directly.




Yup, very similar.  Just make it square and the legs round pipe, and stick 'em on wheels and you're set.

I thought it'd make a cool way to stash mags & remotes but still be able to see them.
Link Posted: 8/26/2004 9:22:33 PM EDT
[#11]
READ THIS CAREFULLY!

You NEED, you MUST HAVE, safety glass (tempered glass, laminated glass or Plexiglass).  DO NOT use regular float glass or anything that isn't safety glass.  If someone falls on it and it breaks and they are sliced to ribbons by the glass shards, then YOU are in deep doodoo.  Tempered glass, when broken, crumbles into little squares with no sharp edges.  Laminated glass will not fracture.
Link Posted: 8/26/2004 9:42:38 PM EDT
[#12]
Ohhh I know what you guys are doing....


You are going to place your AR's under the glass so you can look at them while you are on the couch watching TV and potato'izing.

MT
Link Posted: 8/26/2004 9:48:33 PM EDT
[#13]

Quoted:
I've done a few tables and glass shelving / cabinet door projects.
I was working up a design for a table using a very similar idea to what you've described -

img.photobucket.com/albums/v95/rayra/surftable.jpg

The length was around 54", the cost for 1/4" tempered was ~$120. And not a whole lot more for thicker.

Find your local glass shop. custom-szed and -edged tempered glass is not very expensive. you can get exactly what you want, directly.




Wow, you've got an awfully big pen there.
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